AH64ID

I use Amsoil Diesel concentrate every fill up; however, additives are not what keeps the lubricity high enough to prevent failures. Think about it. There is a very very small percentage of people who use additive, and even smaller who use 2-stroke. Based on the doom and gloom on this website everyone who doesn't should have a failed pump, yet thst simply isn't the case. It is true that when ULSD first came out there were additive issues and lubricity issues but those have long since been fixed... Or trucks would be failing at an alarming rate. IIRC you aren't running an exhaust brake or a drive pressure gauge, which means you wouldn't be able to see the issues I was having. I made the assumption that if my exhaust brake was sticking that incomplete combustion was occuring. There were no other overly obvious signs but I quit using it pretty quick.

1500 lb/ft at 4,000 rpms would be 1,142 hp... So there is your answer, doubtful. Even a single HPCR pump can't do that, but it's easier to double up CR pumps :-)

Look at the flash points and specs of 2 stroke. At low load/combustion temps a complete burn is unlikely. When I ran it my exhaust got a sticky residue to it and my exhaust brake would stick. Since I stopped running it those issues are gone. Nothing wrong with added lubricity, but I would use something designed for diesel. There was a thread recently that had a different study on lubricity and 2 stroke did not get the praise many want it to have. It is intended to be an aresolized libricant and not a extreme pressure one.

As the OP pointed out he has a different harmonic damper that doesn't have the rubber ring. It's a viscous damper that is solid. 6.7 on the left Thats a lot of miles on CR injectors and would be my first thought with Internet troubleshooting. I agree on ditching the K&N.. They are called turbo killers for a reason, simply pure crap. I am not sold on 2 stroke on CRs and wouldn't reccommend it. Mine didn't like it, and the more I think/study it I just don't think it's a good idea in diesel fuel at all.

All I can really add is that custom tuning is so much more than box tuning. It's not even a fair comparison, even if the dyno shows the same numbers. Depending on the number of unlocked tables the hp limit may change without a tap or external module... If the table can be modded and the parameters changed, well you get the idea. That is where custom tuning is different than box tuning. While something may be possible with a box tune the results from truck to truck may be inconsistent so the parameters are "safer" or "milder". I do see a difference in here than in the CR world. In the CR world of tuning I like slightly oversized injectors so we can reduce the duration and thus the timing. I also saw a comment in here about pilot timing. Last i saw guys with EFI are killing the CR pilot at higher rpms and loads. It's something I plan to mess with once 5.9 UDC Pro is released. According to to the news release the VP trucks are next after the 5.9 CR trucks. That's before the 6.7 3rd gen trucks. http://madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/News.pdf

All my filters are on the pressure side of the lift pump (in-tank). It's not the best setup but it still works just fine.

The 7633 is not a water separator and is the crappy cross to the P551313. I'd return it and get a BF1212 water sep.

You shouldn't even notice 250lbs behind the rear axle. When I am loaded for camping I have 1500-1800lbs behind the rear axle and the front axle drops by as much as 500lbs and I don't experiance anything abnormal even with enough air up front for the 500lbs I lost.

There isn't a charge light. If the voltage is too low the check gauges light comes on.

Your voltmeter doesn't swing, or show 12.xx V during the first 2 minutes?

I have also been told to ignore corrected numbers on forced induction motors and have seen many people ridiculed for posting corrected numbers. The few guys I have talked to that have dyno'd at elevation and sea level have very similar uncorrected numbers. So, what are the real numbers? 540/1160?

They just don't plug that quick without flow. There has to be flow to get the soot into the line to plug it.

It could have a tone ring mod or rokktech timing advance sensor.

Agree, the only way to plug that quick is with a leak.

What settings do you run on your Smarty?

Interesting. In all the years I have been running 1/8" I've only had to replace it once.

Why change from 1/8" to 1/4" tubing?

Gotcha... while it's not related to this issue I would ground the pin so you can use it. It's a very useful tool, especially if you tow a lot or idle in the winter.

Have you grounded ECM Pin #22?

I am talking about the one with the cruise control buttons. The automatic one only gets to 1,000 and takes 2 minutes to do so when it's above about 15°.

I take it you haven't enabled your fast idle?? Disregard if that is the case. I am thinking alternator output may be low and additional rpms should increase it.

I don't think there is anything wrong with an audible load change with the grid's cycling, every Cummins I have been around does it.. VE, P7100, VP, HPCR, 5.9, 6.7, etc.. It's small but once you pay attention you notice it. I can tell when mine cycle standing next to the truck and I can hear it in the exhaust too. 2:23 is a little long as it should be coming back up closer to the 2:00 mark. It's possible the alternator is the issue, not the batteries. If it starts fine in the cold after a full grid heater cycle I do not think it's a battery issue. WIth the amp draw of the grids and starter that is a load test every time you start. The brake light issue and the possibly slow to recharge post cycling make me think it's the alternator. What happens if you bump the rpms to 1,100 right after you start it?

Or an airplane wing :-)

The noise you are hearing when they cycle on is the high amp draw loading the engine. You need to determine the actual voltages you are working with. If the trucks starts normally then it could be an alternator issue.

The charge gauge is actually a voltmeter in our trucks and "shows" battery voltage. Charge gauges are ammeters and show flow in/out of the battery. I say "shows" because it is an ECM driven gauge that isn't always accurate. Mine shows `12V during grid heater operations (the entire 2 minutes or until I hit 18 mph) regardless of actual voltage (11.xx-14.xx normally). At 15 mph the ABS motor does a self test. If your voltage is low, really really low, it could cause an issue?? I don't know thou as I have driven with some pretty low voltage after having dead batteries and starting to drive right after jumping with the grid heater still on. Have you scanned for codes with your Smarty?