AH64ID

I was pretty sure Toyo's had been made in Japan for a long time. Are they AT's or AT II's. The tread looks like the old AT but hard to tell for sure. I think they stopped making the AT in 2013??

I'd try a different lab. I never cared for blackstone but do like OAI testing.

BFG was the only option for 255/80R17 in 2009. All in all, despite only getting 22K miles out of 5 of them, they held up to some serious abuse. The road we elk hunt on is no joke and that was their main purpose in life starting in 2011. But when the Coopers came out last year I set my sights on them. Dad showed up to elk camp with a set of brand new KM2's in 255/80R17 so we will have a decent comparison. The KM2's saved his bacon more than once in deep snow with a horse trailer an no chains, so hopefully the S/T Maxx's do just as well.

That's just on those tires... Thats actually a little low now that I really think about it I think 2K is a better average. They are 6 years old and have 22K on them (5 tire rotation) and I ran them full time the first year.

I do. I run those for most of the year and run the 17's during hunting season. This was on my 255/80R17 BFG KM2's. They are 6 years old and down to about 5/32" so it was replacement time. I put so few miles on them these days (~1000-1300/yr) that I was hoping to eek one more season out of them... oh well.

Seems pretty cut and dried... if you tow use 75w-140. AFIK that has always been the recommendation for the Dana axles. 75w-90 and 75w-140 should have the same cold flow properties but I am not sure what cold is. At -40°C the -140 is 84% thicker, looking at Amsoil products. As far as gear lube vs engine oil it's because gear lube is splash lubed and not pumped thru very small clearances; additionally, a 75w gear lube and a 75w engine oil would not have the same viscosity. Lets look at Amsoil 75w-90 gear lube and AME 15w-40 engine oil. Using the 40°C Kinematic Viscosity test the two oils are very close and the gear lube is only 10.8% thicker than the engine oil. Now if you look at the 75w-140 it is 96% thicker. Unfortunately that is the coldest test that is conducted on both fluids. 40°C is 104°F so not exactly cold fluid.

What what is built for?

Turns out there was a broken chord in the drivers rear. The put the spare (5th tire of the same on) and away I went with a smooth driving truck. A set of 4 new Cooper S/T Maxx will go on tomorrow in 255/80R17. That makes 2 chords damaged within 1,000 miles of each other (thou 11 months apart) on the same stretch of road. I guess the tires are worn out.

The wheels were clean, and had operated for 170 miles at high speeds that day. The balance check is really to isolate the one that likely has a delam or chord failure.

I am pretty sure I know what it is but wanted to get y'all's opinion as well. I drove from outside Challis to Kuna, ID yesterday. The first 55 miles was dirt and then the next 170 miles of pavement everything was smooth as butter. Speeds up to 80+ at short times but cruising (if you can call it that on mountain roads) at 55-70 for a lot of it. Came to a stop at the intersection of 17/55 and got onto 55 and noticed a bouncing that was the worst at 35-40 mph. It smoothed out a little by 55-60 but I didn't push it past 60. There is no vibration below 30-35 and rpms have no effect (i.e. lug in a tall gear or 3K in a lower gear). I am thinking a tire might be delaminating but unsure. It is definitely on the rear axle area as I feel it more in my seat than my feet and nothing thru the steering wheel. The transfer case lever is moving laterally up to 1/2" at 35-40 mph. My 6yo was in the back seat and said she felt it behind her without prompting. I told her I thought we might have a bad tire and she said, yup its the back ones I can feel it bouncing. Pressures were good, tires weren't hot, but the drivers side rear is wearing a little funny. They are my KM2's and the soft lugs makes the outside lugs wear faster from cornering (not a BJ issue as my M608z's wear dead even). Now I noticed that there is contact on the tire between the lugs (they are nearly worn out anyhow). So.. thoughts? I am going to go have them checked today on a balance machine.

We had a great view of it from the back yard with minimal city lights to the east. VERY cool! The kids all thought it was pretty neat too.

Being a modern DPF generation VW thing the issue will be with NOx, NMHC's, and particulate matter. I doubt CO2 is even brought up... as a DPF actually creates CO2 thou the amount is very small; nonetheless, the CO2 will be lower with the emissions equipment utilization reduced. Media is BS anymore...

Are we talking about Diesel tuning or the news??? You guys are the ones who brought up efficiency of modern engines and emissions. Efficiency has gone away due to the requirement to reduce NOx, not CO2. From the EPA "These programs will yield enormous long-term benefits for public health and the environment. By 2030, when the engine fleet has been fully turned over, particulate matter (PM) and nitrous oxides (NOx) will be reduced by 380,000 tons/year and 7 million tons/year, respectively." They don't even mention CO2... so if we are going to talk about diesel vehicle emissions lets talk about diesel vehicle emissions. CO is mentioned for diesel emissions but I don't see limits on CO2.

While one would think that less fuel used is cleaner it isn't always that way. The things that make an engine efficient are also the things that increase NOx production from combustion. In order to drop NOx you have to drop cylinder pressure and temperature and when you drop those you lose efficiency. Just like looking at the fire... you have to look at the kind of emissions being made. How much NOx does a forest fire put out? It is unfortunate that particulate matter and emissions do not include economy as a factor as there as to be a happier medium... i.e. dirtier per gallon but cleaner per mile. I am NOT an EPA advocate but ranting should be done with correct data. I think we have gone TOO far with emission requirements and even 2004 specs were a little much but I don't make the rules I just get to follow/break them.

I sure wouldn't be just by looking at the quick stuff posted. If you want the info on the oil call the manufacturer. It sounds like the salesmen don't know much or the oil in the just isn't what it says it is. Something looks off...

That is not oil from the label, so???? Old jug? They don't know what they are talking about? Something else?

If the ash is truly 1.3% then there are some serious issues with all the certifications on the label. Not sure what to think...

Each setup is different in terms of what is acceptable for drive:boost. A HE351 on a stock truck can see 2:1 and be fine, thou lower is better. The cam actually plays a role in that. With my current setup I am generally around 0.8-1 until I get above 2600 rpms WOT and it can go to 1.2:1. I would actually like to drive to my turbo a little harder between 1600-2200 rpms above 5K feet a 1:1 or 1.1:1 for towing heavy. Thou I am not sure how...

I only looked at a couple of the other specs but they are all for 15ppm diesel with aftertreatment aka CJ-4.

CES 20081 is the Cummins spec for CJ-4 oil, so it is a CJ-4 oil. No clue on the TAN.

The coolant passage would make stealing coolant to use as a fuel heater super easy thou. I will probably put a FASS on my truck next year and want to hook up both electric and coolant fuel heaters but not sure where the coolant will come from yet.

Where does Amsoil advertise that?

It should show but you may not be loosing too much compression depending on how bad they rings are broken. The oil cap test can also show you this. With the engine running remove the oil fill cap. Look for any puffing vapor. Place the cap in the opening and see if pressure is being built. My dad's truck ran fine for over 40K miles with the bad rings until one morning the crack in the ring got bigger and he lost a LOT of compression. Funny thing is once it was warm it ran fine all the way to the diesel shop.

I really wish Oregon would get on board with accepting Idaho's permit. I have all the neighboring states covered except Oregon. With the Idaho enhanced permit I was able to drop my Washington CCP but still no Oregon

Valve seals will tell you if it is rings or not. My dad's 06's oil consumption was at a lower rate and turned out to be broken rings on 1 and 6.