AH64ID

Yeah Nez Perce has been Stage II for a while. It was pretty wet up there when I was camping on Oro Grande creek in June thou. The are had just had days, or more, of RAIN typical of N Idaho in the spring. By the end of the week it was dried out thou. We spent the weekend near the Beaver Creek Summit off of Highway 21 and were VERY surprised at how green/lush everything is. There have been a TON of storms the last 2 weeks and it looks like they all dumped a ton of rain in that area. For a very low snow year we seem to be doing alright in the SW portion of the state.

It has been about 12 years since I wrenched on outboards but I don't recall it being that big of a deal at all.

Buying Baldwin at NAPA is like buying BFG tires at Les Schwab. Sure they will sell them to you but since it is not their normal brand they don't get a bulk discount and the final price shows it. Buy from filterspro.com and get your oil filters too. They are quite a bit cheaper (shipping wise) when you buy 6 or so at a time. You can also get Donaldson Blue DBL7349 filters for under $12/ea plus shipping from them. The Donaldson is the best full flow oil filter available for these engines.

What part number?

We don't generally camp in or near campgrounds anyways... to us it's not camping to go somewhere with more neighbors than home regardless of where it is located.

No they don't need the final filtering but they do still need decent f/w separation to keep from corroding things from the inside out.

www.filterspro.com I sure hope you aren't using NAPA fuel filters....

Yes. Just like the BD is it regulated to 60 psi max... but I think it has a better design.

I have heard 60# and I have heard 75#. I know my Jacobs, OEM, exhaust brake would hit 65# without issue. I would look into the PXRB by PacBrake over the BD brake any day. I also wouldn't go remote mount unless you have to for turbo reasons. The closer the brake is to the engine the better.

I just called my propane Co-Op to check on the summer price. $1.299 which is a bit cheaper than last summer. I have the 1000 gal tank and as of last weekend it was at 60% which means I have only used 200 gallons since December which isn't too bad with a hot water heater pilot light going 24/7. I figure I will fill up in September and be good til Sep 16.

No it is not since you are wanting to slow the airflow... unless your drive pressure/brake pressure exceeds the rating of the valve springs... it's hard to do on most setups. Really the only way is with a big cam and a non-regulated exhaust brake like the Jacobs or Banks. With my cam and Jacobs brake I can hit ~75 psi or retarding pressure but since I have 103# valve springs I don't sweat it. Under boost drive pressure reduces the airflow out of the cylinder which reduces the airflow into the cylinder.

Have you tried eBay or CF?

I haven't been up there in a few years. It's a beautiful area.

Looks like a hokey home built setup to me???? Why spend more money on a extra long probe when you can drill tap for free (assuming you have the drill/tap from the original pyro install). Drive pressure is the pressure in the exhaust manifold before the turbo. On bigger setups it can tell you the efficiency of the turbine (or piss you off on the inefficiency of the OEM turbine).It is also nice for telling you the retarding pressure of the exhaust brake. Most setups have no need for a drive pressure gauge.

Agree and most long probes aren't long enough for that setup either. Just cheaper to drill and tap a second hole than it is to buy a new longer thermocouple.

One of the main reasons I will never put a draw straw in my tank. I spend too much time a LONG ways from civilization to make my 35 gal tank only have 20-25 usable gallons. While many say 1/4 tank issues are less common with the current draw straws there is nothing as reliable as the OEM basket with integrated return. But I am glad she is back up and running.

I also set the odometer and let the speedo read what it reads. I am about 1mph off on the dash at 65 but I have less than 1% odo error.

Mine is dead on accurate thanks to Smarty. From a 265/70R17 to a 245/70R19.5 is an approx 5% change... which is dependent on the accuracy of the speedo from the factory. 5% would be 3mph at 65.

Your big benefit for the diesel is the mileage the '96 gets. Likewise it takes gas being quite a bit higher to make it cheaper to drive the gas. Gas pickups just plain burn a lot of fuel. This current tank on my pickup is pretty good thou and probably the best of the year. I am at 1/2 tank and 370 miles, which is something I haven't seen in years..... mainly due to having a commuter and rarely driving the truck for a 1/2 or full tank without a trailer or pair of ATV's in the bed.

$2.86/gal for #2 and $2.89/gal for unleaded. Factor in the commuting mileage and gas is still cheaper. Truck would be ~0.15/mile and commuter would be approx ~0.10/mile based on average daily driving mileage. If gas stays the same then #2 would have to drop to $1.88/gal to make it cost the same per mile. That doesn't account for the higher insurance for higher average annual mileage, more expensive tires, more expensive maintenance per mile, etc... It's really hard to make the truck cheaper to drive than the commuter.

Gotcha. It has been around for a long time. The son of the AirDog founder is who started FASS. The AirDog founder sold out in 2009 and the AD went downhill fast and the FASS kept going up. FASS is leaps and bounds ahead of where they where 10 years ago and the same cannot be said for AD. 10 years ago it was a even tossup between the two. Airdog does not have any provisions for heat, elec or coolant, and that is a big deal to me. The FASS method of filtering and separating air (whether or not you believe in it) is better, IMHO.

Still not pop pressure and shouldn't be labeled as such.... There is no way to make a HPCR injector pop, unless you apply too much pressure and blow the pintle out the tip... but that only works once :-) The Bosch test stand, the only one worth using, has a 16 step process for testing the injectors. They test them with pressure from 25 MPa (3,625 psi) to 160 MPa (23,206 psi) and open time from 160 to 2000 micro seconds, but nothing in the testing sees as what pressure they open which is a pop test, since they do not work that way. Old school terminology doesn't always work on modern technology.

Did the code pop back up instantly? I could see all of your issues from that code.

When did you disconnect the DPF? There are 3 different emissions components in the exhaust, so are you missing 2 of them? It was my understanding that the DPF was the $3500 part with all the platinum and while the NOx absorber is $$ it is not as much as the DPF. Maybe I am thinking of the cost for an entire replacement exhaust. Just trying to clarify what you have going on. I know the ECM does NOT like a tuner free delete, which is what it wounds like what you have. Not much you can see on a failed injector as they generally fail internally, wether it be the pintle/seat or solenoid. 130K miles ins't premature for failed injectors.

What do you mean by a AD replacement?