AH64ID

Exactly!!..well mostly just the BJ's and wheel bearings. The u-joints are not load bearing and the TRE's didn't change, from 08, for the 5500lb FAWR in 2010 and I don't know about the 2013 6K FAWR. I have zero trouble hitting 5300-5400lbs on my front axle when I am loaded up for a hunting trip without a trailer.

Emissions, emissions, and emissions. There is still a pilot and a main event. 3, 4, and 5 are for emissions. The pilot is mainly for quiet combustion.

Good luck and I hope it serves you well. A guy at work just went from a V10 to a 7.3 PSD that is stock and couldn't be happier with the towing performance. His V10 was a year newer than the PSD, so 02-03 timeframe. Hopefully that isn't am omen of what is to come when you hook up a trailer.

The timing and quantity of the 3rd event is emissions based, or at least mostly emissions based. I don't have the map with me but it isn't really beneficial for performance/power/economy. There are some EFI Live tuners that are using the 3rd event to help spool large singles. From a non-EPA standpoint if the 3rd event isn't used for spooling it should be turned off. I have email traffic from MADS stating it has been turned off in all software's but I have no way to verify it. You would not be able to hear it and it doesn't occur as often as people think. You were probably hearing the wastegate. Shoot me a PM about UDC.

Didn't even make it a year

60 psi should be fine for RV's as most RV water pumps run 45-55 psi.

Most RV parks run VERY high pressure to keep up with demand and a separate pressure regulator is needed between the city connection and the RV.

I am pretty sure than anything but Cummins is the crap shoot, new or re-manufactured. I know several shops that will only use Cummins due to excessive non-OEM failures. ... but time will tell.

Not too bad of a life, thou I would be VERY surprised if the Auto Zone one lasts 1/3 as long as anything but Cummins pumps get horrible reviews. How many hours on the pump?

The two vertical hoses are your low point drains for the system. They should leak under pump or city pressure as they should be on the appliance side of the pump, unless you are getting excessive pressure from the city hookup. Were you using a water pressure reducer with the city water?

All the ones I have seen have alignment marks to let you know if they have displaced, rotated etc. The link above mentioned them.

Got the ones for a NV5600??

There may be better tuners than what you have, but if mileage is your only goal it takes a long time to save money with a small mpg gain.

Been a rough week for the rescue half of S & R in the state.

Was it displaced at all?

EGTs are the byproduct. You could drop the EGTs with airflow stuff, maybe, and your mileage wouldn't change.

Unless you are towing heavy you will be hard pressed not to develop a carbon layer on the pistons.

20 at 65 is nothing to complain about.

Must be a 24V thing as my CR only goes on one way. The notch for the tone ring extends into the damper. The fuel boss and fluidampr would occupy the same space. This is the main reason I quit looking at the fuel boss.

It's more of a cost thing to me. I am going to do more frequent changes on a new motor so why put in expensive oil? That is probably 90% of it. Are machine shops getting the final fit and finish of OEM? I am not sure. I would guess it is better but compleatly depends on the machine/machinist. Yes many OEMs use synthetic but I am not aware of any that have group IV synthetics in them and I wonder if that make a difference? It may and it may not.

What kind of mileage are you getting? There is more to consider than EGTs alone.

Like killer said. It's based on irregular wear pattern and location. Get an alignment and see where you are.

I have heard that even the good ones will eventually cook a battery. I have never owned one and my batteries last longer than most. I believe in a full charge and a disconnect or IOD fuse pull.

That's a lot of ZDDP! Should be good for the cam. I don't understand why you where told not to run synthetic. Being a high hp motor you want synthetic for the higher temperature stability, better sheer point, and clinging properties. The only time you don't want the synthetic is during the break in. You will want to put around 10K miles on Dino oil before switching to synthetic, if you switch. CI oil is the last oil before the DPF era oil. CI generally has more ZDDP additive and a higher TBN which means longer oil life. That being said the 6.7 was built for CJ oil and still uses a flat tappet cam. Personally I won't run CJ oil until I can't buy CI oil. The Amsoil CI AME was one of the best CI oils and is still available. The Arafat article was decent at the time but is horribly outdated and not worth much anymore. Very few of the oils in it are even available anymore and they didn't even test the most common Amsoil.

The tappets need to spin and if they don't then bad things happen.