dobienut

Yea I know it makes the 6 th level, just wondering if the power gain is that noticable to make it worth spending the money ? Thought there must be someone on here thats purchased it

Wondering who has shelled out the money for the hot unlock and is it worth the money? I see Edge has 50% off right now

Just backed it in using the mirrors until I had to fold them in, then just looking out the back window. I have about 6-8 inches on the passenger side and actually it's not bad on the drivers. I was able to suck my gut in and slither out . Getting back in on the other hand may be a chore..may have to get my wife to drive it out in the spring

I actually bought a 48 ft and a 53 ft. I made a rock wall and backed them in over it so it supports the back ends so I can drive in and out of them. Have them wired also...makes a nice storage unit.

The Fuel Boss will start the truck without the electric back up. I've had my electric pump unplugged now for about 3-4 months. As long as you have no leaks, the system stays primed

From the picture it looks like a nice clean spray..and straight

I can't tell by the picture what they are ?

Some nice pictures of the fall colors a friend of mine took last week

I know the wiring schematic shows the relays cycle, but i also don't know if its the actual CTM that's shuts them down or if there's a switch in the seat itself that says hey...we're getting to hot and stops the cycle. Aftermarket units must shut down somehow, thought someone might now

I installed my heated leather seats but still haven't wired the heating part of them. The seat is out of a 2001 gas truck and mines a 2002 diesel so the harnesses are different. I'm just wondering how aftermarket heated seats work in relation to I believe you just wire a power source to them, but what tells them to shut down after reaching a certain temperature? I'm wondering if I can in fact just power the heating element and not worry about it burning up if it's not wired to the computer of my truck? Would make it a heck of alot easier if I could just do that

Did you see any difference to make it worth doing?

I have been running the Fuel Boss must be 5 years or more now. I still have the factory lift pump on the block hooked up. When you first start the truck the electric lift pump runs for a second or whatever it takes for a Hobbs switch (provided), to realize the pressure is there from the Fuel Boss, then it shuts power off to the electric pump. I have had a case where I busted the belt on the Fuel Boss and it automatically switched back to the electric pump. I personally love this pump and with no hesitation will buy it again if I ever buy another truck as it was the best money I ever spent BTW..the Fuel Boss doesn't really even need the electric lift pump, but it's nice to have it hooked up in case the belt or something breaks until you can replace it. My Hobb's switch went bad a couple months ago, I stil haven't replaced it so I'm just running the Boss solo. Richard at Glacier Diesel can tell you anything you want to know about the pumps

Don't you guys have any junk yards with these trucks in them that have a good dash? An option for you.... I picked up a whole truck with leather interior and wood grain ,and a pefrect dash for $700. I junked the truck and made enough to keep the interior and even have the driver seat re-covered. My dash I currently have is crack free ...don't seem to see alot of cracked ones around here...watch when i go to get in my truck next time

Personally I think the Oil companies and car companies work together. With advances in technology i see no reason they can't make a truck like ours get well over 50mpg if they wanted to. Just think though the money the oil companies would lose if this took place. What better way to keep this from hapening but to make a few "donations" to the auto engineers so they don't create that issue

Look for a 98-99 Subaru Outback for under $1000. This will take you anywhere you want to go with ease as they are like a tank in the snow. I'm on my third now, never bother to drive my truck anymore during the winter. I'll let the cheap car rust before my truck

That was 14 bales, we were gong to put two rows on top but wasn't sure how much weight it would be , and didn't really want to meet up with the weigh cop to find out.

More haying . Loving my trailer

They aren't very consitant, but i'd say roughly 2 x 2 x 4.

Hay season again

Thanks for telling me that, good to know. Where did you get the dummy plug?

Richard from Glacier said it could be an issue with the ground for that harness or possibly the Hobb unit is bad. I'm going to pick up a new Hobb and try it

Truck is now running fine with the stock lift pump harness unplugged and back to holding good psi

Yea I read that article. I went out and just started looking over wires, unplugging and starting, etc. Last plug I unhooked was to the factory lift pump and I started it and Wala!...smooth idle again. So, only thing i'm wondering now is why is that making it act that way when the factory is only suppose to be active upon starting and with the factory one unplugged, my fuel boss is only showing 6-7 psi at idle which it should be higherand the higher as revs are increased. Going to clean the terminals up on the hobbs switch and maybe ull the bypass apart to check for dirt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb_DpieasVI Usually at idle with my Fuel Boss I hold 16psi, when ascting like this it's holding at about 11psi. Take the rpm's to about 1200 and you can hardly tell I have any issues going on, go back to idle and you hear what's happening. Swaped the crank sensor yesterday with a new one, seems to be worse actually but maybe it's coincidence.