dobienut

I was driving through town this morning, had my window down and could hear a noise like something scrapping. Just as I was about to stop I had good brake pedal but all of a sudden my pedal started to pulse for the ABS and drug the back wheel...pedal still felt good. ABS and brake light came on and stayed on until I stop and shut the truck off to go in somewhere, came back out and drove off, lights are now out ans brakes feel fine. Come to my next set of stop lights and pedal did the same, ABS and brake lights back on. After I got home, pulled the front wheels and coincidence has it that both sides in front has the dust pans rotted off and laying there scrapping as the wheel goes round. I removed both of them and while at it I took all the brakes apart, lubed the sliders and made sure the calipers worked ok. Also looked closely at the ABS lines going into the wheel hub assembly and saw no chaffing or cuts in the wires anywhere.I pulled a P0500 from the odometer which is the no vehicle speed sensor signal but before I go to far into it I wanted to ask if this code could cause this affect? Speedometer working flawlessly...everythign else appers to be working fine. As for now I just hauled the ABS fuse out and brakes are working fine.

Hmm, I just went to Glacier's site and I see the kits don't show them listed as having one with them now either.

Can't remember where I read it and I never did understand how it could be the cause, but I thought there was a TSB out on the 5.9 dealing with an engine knock under load, and it was caused by the thermostat

Didn't your kit come with a tension adjust gauge? Knock on wood, I haven't had ot touch my belt in about 4 years and that was replacing it due ot my own fault.

I'm never below 16psi @ idle

Take the Bypass valve apart and check to see if it has some dirt in it. I had a similar issue when I installed mine, Richard at Glacier told me to check that and sure enough thats what it was

Buddy of mine that runs a parts yard for mainly Dodge trucks claims he sells and has calls for the CR 5.9 alot. People blowing motors up keeps a big demand for him, hardly ever gets calls for the VP engine set up. His opinion to me was keep what you have when I talked to him about upgrading.

Here's a link to a site which is a pay site, but may be of intrest to some. You can click on the link and it will tell you pricing and durations of the subscriptions. http://www.alldatadiy.com/

Unfortunatley i think there is just as much racism from the African American population towards whites as there is the other way around, except it's only such an awful thing when it the first senerio

Yea mine does too. I always chalked it up to a wire getting bad or a bad connection where the seatbelt clicks in

Thanks A little over $500 sitting on it there

First hay run for this year. A tad overweight i'd say

I know people thats gone through a divorce and it was all good, they agreed on financial issue...that is until the lawyers got involved. Then it bcame a I am going to clean you out divorce...or should I say Reem . More fighting equals more money for the lawyers

Thanks for the replies fellas, just talking to him and he went and bought a different programmer

Hey fellas, i'm asking for some info on a Smarty off an 03 cummins. I have a buddy that has a smarty for sale from an 03, and a buddy that owns an 04 that's looking for one. Can you take this from truck to truck..are they locked or how do you unlock them ? What's fair price for one? thanks

Here they anchor the tanks down using aircraft cable . I guess it lasts longer against the ground and water elements to prevent fast rusting of the cables. As for the tank itself filling with water, i'm sure they must be able to seal them well enough to help eliminate that issue. Sounds really cheap indeed, here they charge a couple thousand dollars for a tank that size. We get ripped so bad here in Canada for certain things

Yea I realize the force involved and I'm not thinking a cement house wont get taken out, but chances are a little better I would think of it having less damage then a wooden built structure. I assume getting insurance to rebuild in these areas must be almost next to no chance ? Possibly rebuilding 2-3 houses in your lifetime, i thought it may be more beneficial to spend the extra up front to try to help combat it

So this is truly a serious question I have to any of you that live in the high risk areas. I watch on television and they show the devistation caused when one of these storms rip through and I always wonder why peple that live there don't try to build their houses out of cement and roofs that would be very hard to rip off? I know, incredible force behind these storms but wood is almost guaranteed to be destroyed , I would think heavily built cement houses would stand up much better

You'll have years of worry free driving regarding you pump now:thumbup2:

Fellas, I bought an 01 2wd and parted it out for the interior (leather) and I am putting it in my 02. It had an overhead console and I removed the wiring harness from it today and saw the wiring harness coming from where the temp sensor is mounted, comes back and ties into the main wiring harness, not just plugged in like I had hoped it would. Has anyone ever added the overhead console and had the same issue and could tell me what you did? Also the junker had remote door locks, just wondering if it's just a matter of plugging them into the harness in the door and they'll operate, or a different harness all together going into the main? :whistle:Would like to know before I start tearing mine all apart

Fellas, I bought a front leather heated seat and I'm taking it apart to get the drivers side recovered. I have been able to get the tabs on the seat cover off the front and start pealing the cover off the foam, but it seems like it's either glued fast to the foam where you sit , or possible wire clips? I see small wires that appear to dig themselves into the foam but don't want to go ripping at it until i get some insight . Also, has anyone repalces their factory heating element with the replacement from Geno's Garage? Wondering if they plug right in to the factory plug:think:

Yes I left the factory lift pump there so if a belt breaks it automatically goes back to the factory LP for supply, and it does work as i saw when I broke the belt. As for issues with the belts breaking @ low miles, I personally have had no issues or have heard of it until this thread. A call or email to Richard at Glacier may shed some light on possible causes of it

Mine are also two different sizes...no issues here

Did you get the belt tension adjust gauge with it? Maybe your getting your belt to tight?

Yea I still have the factory lift pump installed and it still works. About 3 years ago I broke the belt off the Boss by going through a very high and hard snow bank left by the snowplow. Snow must've wedged itself up in the and popped it off , it went right back to the factory pump to supply fuel. Knock on wood, I have had literally no issues with this pump at all other than that one belt, and that was my own fault. A buddy of mine bought one about a few weeks before mine, have never heard him say he's had any issues either.Only thing i'd say about this pump that you should maybe consider...if you're an offroader that goes in mud bogs, you may want to look at making a little cover or something to keep the mud or rocks from going up in around the pump and getting at the belt. If you're just a road driver..no worries