notlimah

So what would be the recommendation as far as bumper pulling that much weight? I'm sure the tounge weight is well over the max recommended for the stock hitch on a 2nd or 3rd gen.

The boat is around 30 foot and he said it weighed 15k.

So I got a buddy who’s looking into a Dodge and potentially a 3rd gen. He’s looking to get somethin to tow his boat, which is 15k. I suggested he get a dually since he’ll be bumper pulling that much weight the extra stability and load bearing would help. Mainly looking for the commonly known issues on the 3rd gens if that’s the route he ends up going. He’s also considering a 2nd gen but I should have that covered pretty well. Anything in particular I should check or look at with him looking to tow that much?

Thanks fellas. I have seen both of those write ups, mainly just wanted a warm and fuzzy that my thought process was right. I just like to quadrupole check the process of doing things I’ve never done, before I actually do them. Nothin drives me more crazy then thinking I’ll be done with something in a certain time, then it takes longer then expected because I didn’t know somethin. Obviously certain stuff can’t be avoided but I try my best!

So injectors are currently getting re-popped to 325 and I've been watching youtube vids and write up on injector swaps. Obviously everyone does it a little different but I want to make sure I get things straight for my particular situation. As far as I know I'll be pulling on stock injectors and I don't know if/when a valve lash adjustment was done. When swapping injectors do I need to remove the exhaust rocker arms? Most videos show them being removed and I'm wondering since I don't think these injectors have ever been out of the truck if that'd be a good idea in order to verify the torque spec on the rear injector hold down bolt? I want to make sure I get the order correct when installing the new injectors. Seems it should.. -install injector with crossover tube hole facing towards crossover tube (lubing o-ring and washer with oil or vaseline) -make sure injector is seated, should feel/hear slight pop once seated correctly -install crossover tube, should feel/hear slight pop, verify crossover tube is sitting flush with head (lubing o-ring with oil or vaseline) -tighten injector hold down plate (89inlbs for both???) -again verify crossover tubes are seated and tube is flush with head -installed fuel lines over crossover tube (25ftlbs???) Anything else??

0237 has nothing to do with limp mode or your turbo shaft play. Map sensor is the issue https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low-r65/

Yes to the ball. I did the same and ordered a new spring and ball from Eric for my FASS, it worked out well.

1oz per gallon TC-W3 ashless from Walmart is what most use.

Yup they sure do! 2 stroke helps everything fuel touches

Yea I just don’t want to have issues with trouble starting in the cold. I think I’ve settled at 325 and if it’s not working out I’ll have them re-popped.

How come you got the two different bolts in the side?

Ok so just got re-reading through this entire thread as I finally got bigger injectors 7x.012 (should be here today!) and they're currently set to 350 bar and based on this thread, it seems like setting them to 330 with the expectation they'll drop 10ish bar, that would keep them in the happy area for the VP as well as a good spot for that sized injectors. Can someone back me up on that thought process??

fml, now I'm worried!

So I'm about to throw in some 7x.012s with my HX, you think I need studs right meow?!

Well I'm gonna have to do it eventually so I might as well learn!

Bayes is gonna do a write up to teach us kiddies?! Yes please!

Get a Goerend pan if anything. It’s not huge but still holds more then stock. Has built in bung for temp. Sloped interior so all fluid drains out of the 1in plug on the bottom. And it won’t break the bank.

If you have any interest in running the stock-ish heat exchanger lemme know and I’ll dig through some links and find a company that builds new units.

Link seems down. Gotta watch out for those Craigslist’s folks lol

Ok so nothing to worry about then? If I were to turn off the warm up option in the quad would I still see the same numbers?

So I've noticed that my timing in the morning (basically driving within the first 5 minutes of starting) is pretty high. Like 17-20ish under low throttle inputs. Is this normal? I thought I had my settings in the quad to reduce this but maybe I'm misunderstanding something. I do have the quad set to a 120* warm up so would that factor in? Typically leaving Mike's MPG switch to OFF until I've been goin for a bit then switch to MPG.

Good to have ya, where abouts in the PNW are ya?

Cllleeeaaaannnn

I get that Nick, I'll admit I was being a little sarcastic. All I was originally stating was a 4in exhaust is going to get rid of hot air quicker and lower EGTs. Might not be drastic, but it'll happen, I've seent it.

So because it's a 3in intake horn, there's no need for a larger exhaust?