notlimah

Looks good! Look forward to hearing your impression once you get some miles on it!

Wish we were closer to each other Mike!! Well what would you suggest I start checking/replacing first?

Ohhhh that I did not know. I'll have to check that out. Going to be making another trip tomorrow. What do I need to change for an xzt being hooked up?

Well I know this method won't be the gnats a** accurate, I have no plans on getting a GPS so close enough will work for me as I'm really more just trying to get an idea anyways. Here's what I came up with old tire diameter 31.6 new tire diameter 32.7 31.6 / 32.7 = .96 - 1 = .0336 or .035 So trip meter showed 425.8 x .035 = 14.9 + 425.8 = 440.7 of 'corrected' trip mileage 440.7 / 22.3 would be 19.7mpgs so really not that far off from uncorrected but still nice to know it's a little more accurate.

Ok so sounds like replacing o-rings may be a bit more of a logical approach. If I did that do I drain the system? If so how? With th as much as I know about the A/C system I'm tempted to just drop it at a shop and have them fix it

Hey guys, so finally had a chance to get a full tank, and drive a good amount of 99% highway driving and trying to get as accurate number as I can. Only thing I'm having an issue with is compensating for my bigger tires and my speedo not being calibrated for it. Anyone know how to do that? Here's my numbers: Trip meter = 425.8 (has 285/70/17s when speedo is set for 265/75/16s so this is biggest concern) Used 22.3 gallons of diesel Hand crunching those numbers still comes out to 19mpgs which isn't terrible but pretty sure it's a little different due to tires/speedo being off. Thanks in advance!

Nice, the track bar will definitely firm things up!

Not to be a debbie but the track bar won't fix that loose wheel! It will keep you from correcting while in turns but didn't tighten steering. Only thing that fixed that for me was the bluetop.

Ok, I understand that just throwing parts at a problem isn't the best way to go about things, but in a system like this, isn't just replacing everything going to end up fixing it anyways? As well as having a working A/C system that's brand new? I don't know anyone that has any tools to troubleshoot A/C systems otherwise I'd have done it. My only other option is to drop it off at a shop and let them fix it.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll take a look at your article a little more in depth when I can @IBMobile. When I bought the truck I don't think the A/C worked but I can't remember 100% as I live in a overall cooler climate, plus I just put the windows down anyways. Now I've been taking the family more so windows down isn't always an option. Got the system recharged about 2 months ago and it worked great for a while, now nothing but ambient temp coming out it feels. No visible leaks I could see besides the typical condensation build up around the accumulator. I'm thinking just a full overhaul of the system may be in order, as I plan keeping the truck forever so might as well get everything freshened up. If I were to just replace everything, is there anything special I'd need to do?

Hmm, my wife's 2014 gmc 1500 has had that happen a couple times, one time to the point where I put an extra quart in before the alert cleared. Dealership told me it was normal for that weight of oil I'll have to try out the M5 for around town and look into the catch can. Not familiar with range afm though, how does that work?

Do you have a link to the catch can your using? Also, have you noticed oil ever being low and giving a low oil indication on the center console?

Hmm interesting stuff John. To me that last verbage the SWEPCO uses is basically the same verbiage as Mobil's but does read a little more clearly. Either way they're stating they meet the criteria for the API as a MT-1 gear oil ONLY, but in certain applications can be substituted in place where GL-1 through 4 would typically be used. I think I got it! ha!

What O-rings specifically? As far as sensors, looks like the only one I can find is the ambient air temp sensor, is that all there is? Should I replace, the compressor, condenser, and accumulator as well as O-rings? I just want to get this figured out once and for all and not have to mess with it later.

So I got my A/C system recharged about a month or two ago with Freon and was getting super cold air and it was working great. Fast forward to yesterday and I was driving down to Seattle and my A/C is pretty much non-existent now. When I got it recharged, the guy mentioned that it looked like there was some dye in the system so someone at some point was looking for a leak and clearly there is, just not sure where. My A/C never worked up until I got new Freon put in it and now it seems that due to a leak somewhere, it's depleted and A/C is no longer getting cold. What should I start with?

So where does it specify that the Amsoil carries the GL-4 rating? Does it flat out say 'rated for GL-4' or does just the fact that it says it is to be used for "API GL-4 applications" constitute as 'rated?' Is part of the issue that the phrase 'rated for...' isn't used?

Got it. I updated the link with the right fluid. I'm still a little confused as to what the overall argument is lol.

I think that's the point Nick is trying to make Mike. There's no question that you're doing great work, its just looking at it more like insurance. You pay for it even when you don't need it, but when you do it pays for itself ten fold. He's saying to treat your company and services the same way. You set a site up good to go and for quite a while they won't need you, but if you have an agreement in place that you'll be paid even when things are fine, then you're more well off. At least that's what I think you're saying Nick haha.

These should be links to the two oils being talked about Mobil https://www.mobil.com/english-us/commercial-vehicle-lube/pds/naxxmobil-delvac-synthetic-transmission-fluid-50 Without taking sides, since I have no dog in this fight being I'm an auto, the Mobil data sheet seems a bit misleading as it states in one paragraph that "Mobil Delvac 1 Transmission Fluid 50 meets or exceeds the requirements of the API service MT-1 classification and is recommended by ExxonMobil for use in transmissions and gear cases where API Service GL-1 through GL-4 (non-EP) gear protection is required." It's sneaky how they list it as meeting and exceeding API for MT-1 then say THEY recommend it in transmissions that call for API GL-1-4, not that it meets or exceeds API requirements. Then further down in the applications tab, it makes no mention of anything GL-4, nor does it in the Specifications and Approvals tab. Just seems weird to me. Amsoil http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2077.pdf Amsoil's data sheet is a lot more easy to understand IMO and clearly states that it's for applications recommending the use of API GL-4 oil. It even uses the NV-4500 as an example of a transmission to use, although it's stating to not use extended drain interval with a trans calling for synthetic oil. If the debate is whether or not certain oil manufacturers specifically state RATED FOR GL-X then I plead the 5th as I haven't seen that actual phrasing anywhere I've looked. Again, I'm not taking sides either way as I feel oil selection (or lube in general for vehicles) is one of the most biased topics when it comes to vehicles, so everyone just use what you want. The information is out there and not hard to find

I think that this thread will at least make everyone aware of both sides of this 'argument' and people should be able to decide what they want to put into their trucks knowing both extremes.

First off welcome aboard Second I'll just list what comes to mind of your mentioned issues. Pressure difference each start. Clogged filter or lines, incorrect micron rating for spin on filter, those different size lines you have, air staying trapped in your fuel pressure gauge line, fuel pressure gauge on the fritz. Hard hot start. Typically means VPs on the way out. How news the VP? Always had the raptor on it? Could be a correlation if your fuel pressure you've been seeing is actual and it's been starved of fuel here and there could've been enough to push it over the edge. Hope that helps at least get the gears turnin!

boo!

You don't NEED control arms, but they would push the axle back to where it would be with no lift. I'm currently running 285's with stock control arms and no rubbing or alignment issues. Before this I was running 315's with stock control arms and only a slight rubbing at full lock. Probably not necessary but if you wanted everything to be perfect compared to how it would be stock then sure.

https://www.cjcoffroad.com/

Cheaper good quality control arms you can get from metal cloak. Never used them myself but heard nothing but good things. As far as the track bar centering, I doubt furestone does it. Think of how many vehicles come with an adjustable track bar. I'm running the DOR tb as well and I just had someone push on the truck left to right while I spun the bar by hand and I did that until the end links were pretty much straight up and down, no measuring. When I did take it to get an alignment after installing 4th gen steering, I took it too an off road shop in town who I knew would check the tb and they said it was within an 1/8th which is as close as they would've done it so it's been that way ever since.