notlimah
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Everything posted by notlimah
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That's a bit random, but at least you got the warranty. -
Thanks man! I'm excited! If you ever make your way up to WA, you can take her for a spin!
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Thanks @CTcummins24V! I totally agree, I think I am being a bit greedy in the sense that I'm trying to plan for things really far down the road and basically get to a point where I know if I went any further it'd require major changes to what I have plannned in the near future. Mainly anything over a 62mm turbo. Both trucks I've had have both been stock power wise and they've both performed exactly how I needed them too. So I think once power mods start coming it'll keep me happy for quite a bit. I will more then likely run the hx35 and some mild injectors for quite a while, with the dream of bigger injectors, turbo and tuner way down the line. I think I'll be more then happy with my xzt, HX35 and some mild injectors! I just want to make sure that if (or when) I get the power bug I'll be with the limits of a dependable setup. My trans build will include a triple disc TC with a stall 2-300rpm lower then stock. Billet input will be included as well.
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Yea I've read your write up a few times Nick, not entirely sure if I want to attempt the same. If I were I think I'd want a toggle switch though. @Tractorman I think that's an awesome idea!! I hope you don't mind if I steal that foot switch location?! Do you think a toggle switch wired to a small LED would work the same way? I think it'd be even more convenient to be able to just tap it with your foot once and it either be on or off. But I get that forgetting to unlock will cause issues, that's why I think an LED to signal it's on would solve that problem. Look forward to that write up! After I let dynamic get my trans tuned I should have 3-4 locked up shifts and 4-3 locked downshifts so that should be nice. I do believe he said a stock valve body could lock in 2nd, maybe I misunderstood.
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What switch and location did you guys use?
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Could you link to me to some turbos you'd recommend? Just googling 62 sxe gives a lot of options.
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I might have to look into getting the quad adr before bigger sticks then, that way I can at least tune around big injectors and little air. My biggest reason I want to pin down a good sized turbo for what I want to do is so I can get the right stall speed converter put in now so I don't need to get a new one later.
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Ok, that's sorta what I was thinking as well, but I was guessing more then anything lol. So I'll more then likely upgrade injectors before I get a bigger charger. Would it be doable running 7x.010s with a HX35 and my xzt? I don't want to be a freight train haha Do you think a 62/65/12 sxe would be good? Or would I need to go a little bigger?
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Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for. I will definitely be upgrading to the big boy quad, it'll just be a while. Just making sure I start with the trans first and want to make sure that I give Dynamic a good idea of where I'm going with my power mods so he can setup me up with the best torque converter stall speed and all that. Where do you think I'd be at power wise with the xzt, hx35 and 7x.010s? 7x.010 are 100s or 150s?
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So as some of you may have read, I'm finally getting my trans built and now I can safely start scheming on power mods. I've been doing as much research as I can to get an idea of what I'd need to attain my power goals but I wanted to get your opinions and thoughts on the matter. Ideally I'd like to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 450-500hp. I daily drive the truck so I don't need gobs of power and I don't tow a lot, but I'd rather it perform better towing then have it be more fun when empty, if that makes sense?! Anyways, I currently have a quad xzt hooked up, but turned off to preserve my trans until it's built. I've dug through old threads regarding the xzt and it seems that the 3000 flash is the most aggressive but I couldn't find anything that states any different numbers from what the other tunes offer so is it just the timing and fueling differences that make it more aggressive? I understand that I'm a bit limited with this box but for the time being I'm ok with that. Ultimately I'd like to upgrade to the big boy quad and run un-tapped as to preserve the VPs health as best I can. So, if I went with 7x.009s and ran it with my xzt and HX35 I'd imagine that'd put me around 300-350. yes? no? Would adding a phatshaft 62/65/12 get me to around 400-450 or would I need to add a quad adr to get there? Would those numbers be doable without wire tapping or would bigger injectors be needed?
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If I had 17s I would. It'll more then likely be something I do in the future though.
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But reading those posts on fb are fun! Especially when you're the only one saying something different and you're right lmao
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Has anyone ran the RAYBESTOS 76920FZN Rust Prevention Technology; Coated Rotor from RockAuto? Seems decent and price is about the same as others. They label it as OE quality so might be worth it?
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Completely understand!
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I'd start by checking for steering shaft play, right where it goes through the firewall, engine bay side. Next I'd check the track bar for play. I had a pop for a while after installing a new track bar but it went away after a bit.
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With today's electronic lift pumps from FASS and Airdog, TYPICALLY they do not come with a way to easily adjust fuel pressure. There are options out there but they are quite spendy and there's easier ways to accomplish the same thing. So for those who have pumps that do not have an external/adjustable regulator, your pump more than likely uses a spring and ball to regulate fuel pressure. Springs should be provided from the pump manufacturer to provide adequate pressures. Typically between 16-18psi. The pumps use a hard plastic ball, either a Buna or Viton ball. This will create a seal when the pump is off and keep fuel from "leaking" or "moving" in the lines once the pump is off. The springs can be inconsistent which can cause erratic fuel pressure readings or lower then expected readings. Using this diagram of a FASS system, if you remove the hose/fitting that is connected to the "air/vapor return to the tank" you will find a spring a ball, it will look like this. If your spring comes out looking like this... You were more then likely experiencing erratic fuel pressures. You could either straighten out the spring and reinstall or replace the spring all together. I only have experience with FASS but I called FASS support and they sent me a replacement. I imagine the same would happen with Airdog. The next factor in all this are the balls. In my research I've found that FASS uses a Buna ball and Airdog uses a Viton ball. I was having a mixed bag of issues, erratic fuel pressures and also lower then expected fuel pressures. Upon removing the spring and ball I found my spring had twisted (previous pic) and that the ball had indented into the spring. You can see the indentation here. I tried a couple replacement balls from FASS with the same results. I then went with a Viton ball and the problems haven't returned. The Viton ball is stronger material and seems to be holding up well. If you're still having lower pressure issues then you can put a washer in to shim the spring and raise pressure. The following measurements should get you in the ball park but make sure you double check you're not adding any additional restriction by using to small of an ID. Here are the measurements: OD - .631" ID - .320" thickness - .039" ***This washer/shim should be added between the fitting and the spring NOT between the spring and ball.*** So what helped fixed my issues was going with a Viton ball and a 17lb spring. This isn't meant to say one company is better then the other, just what I found out in my research and what fixed my problem. The point of this article is to help educate others on potential fixes. ***Additional notes*** List of parts I used Viton Ball HERE 17lb spring HERE I understand these are labeled as Airdog parts but they worked fine in my FASS 150. The Airdog fitting DID NOT work on my FASS pump so if you're looking to replace that on your FASS 150 you would need to contact FASS to get a replacement. Here's the difference FASS LEFT AIRDOG RIGHT Pretty noticeable difference in threads and overall length so if replacing these fittings they must be brand specific.
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I could probably do that. A lot of the info I have in another thread so I could essentially copy and paste. Are those measurements correct? I personally haven't used the washer to shim it but pretty sure I wrote those measurements down at some point from one of your posts.
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Thats awesome, I'll have to look into these more seriously in the mext few months!
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Looking to see if you're still liking the Hankook's now that you have some more mileage? @Mopar1973Man Did you ever end up getting those Nittos? @TFaoro
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To further what dripley already said use this pic Where the return to tank line leaves the pump you'll find the return ball and spring. That's how these pumps regulate pressure. If everything looks good you could shim it with a washer with the following measurements to increase your pressure. A lot of the springs from FASS seem weak or inconsistent so that's probably why you're brother is seeing different pressure. OD - .631" ID - .320" thickness - .039" ^ pretty sure I stole those measurements from Mike but they should apply to your pump
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Check to make sure your return spring and ball don't look like this. If it does or if the ball has made an indent into the spring, I'd call Eric @Vulcan and get a 17lb spring and Viton ball from him.
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So here's another question, what is considered stock stall speed? I've seen multiple different answers, some say 1600 while others say 2300, is there any really way to tell? Also wouldn't it make sense that if I have say a stall speed 2-300rpm lower then stock and then increase my hp/tq numbers that that number would increase?
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Thanks. I'm understanding the turbo sizing a little better now.
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That extra hose over the manifold is for coolant? What is it's purpose?
