Tim Waldo

and the only place that makes sense on a newly reman long block is the Turbo Shaft seals... that and I mean it JUST started drinking oil in the last 700 miles and I'm 17k on the reman engine. Turbo has 450k miles on original. Reman Turbo ordered, sadly won't be here till Monday so NEXT weekend before I can do anything.

but a quart every 200 miles?? I'm pretty much betting on the turbo... guess I'll break it apart this weekend and see if I have residue on the exhaust side.

none... https://photos.app.goo.gl/PHtop7t4BVnAiWD57

No I haven't broken the turbo loose... if I'm going to that level I'm going to just replace it... no oily mess, no visible leak. No "obvious" smoke... Would it smoke if it was leaking out the exhaust side of the turbo? I mean I'm down to two possibilities... oil rings gummed up or turbo leaking on the exhaust side... unless I get other possibilities from the group...

all I can say is I have done nothing but give 865Diesel grief over their shoddy work... so I wouldn't doubt I got someone else's dip stick.... SO... I did some research and once again 865Diesel screwed me over.... new long block CAME WITH new oil pan and new dipstick... The length is the same (45") but I"m sure the markings are off... 11 quarts shows at about 5" on the photo... The dipstick they sent back with the truck is #3935648 GENOS says the correct # for the 2000 5.9 is #3944594 correction... Genos says #3935648 IS the correct replacement and #3944594 is what it replaced.

So 17k on a reman long block, initial 1000 miles were broke in with synthetic oil (against manufacture requirements) as soon as I learned I flushed and refilled with DINO oil. That being said, I'm now at 17k and loosing about a quart every 200 miles. I REALLY believe it is my turbo (original to the truck, currently 451k miles. Not blowing smoke but the tailpipe is sooty... no oil "leaks" under the truck. If the turbo was leaking oil, how would it be indicated? at $600 to get a reman from Thoroughbred Diesel and I just better replacing the turbo than paying a shop $300 just to find the oil leak? Is there a better/cheaper place to get a reman turbo? WHAT is the possibility that 1000 miles on synthetic could have caused issues with the OIL ring on any or all of the pistons during break in? Thanks guys.

well I know what my oil is at the given oil placement on the stick... I'm good... was just curious why it changed... at 11 quarts, it shows a quart over.

honestly I don't know... the installer was over an hour away so I couldn't keep as much of an eye on them as I would have liked.... I PRESUMED it was my original pan.... dipstick seems to be my oringinal... but again who knows.

So my truck a 2000 5.9 ALWAYS took 11 quarts which would bring it up to the bottom of the top line on the dipstick... Two years ago I had to have a reman long block installed and now 11 quarts makes it look like I'm running a quart over on the dipstick.. Has anyone else noticed a difference, I've seem people arguing on-line about how much oil to fill when doing an oil change so it is possibly a real thing. Just thoughts that have been bugging me.

So a Geno's cooler (single sided) would be a waste of $$? I'm about to change my transmission oil and now would be the time to put a cooler on. I don't tow much but on my last trip to Florida(not towing) my temps got as high as 205. Did you make your own heat shields? or buy them somewhere? Thanks, Tim

So it is going to take more diagnostics on circuit B, there was no voltage through A at all.... I put in a push button to get by for now (I actually wanted a push button as an additional layer of security) I am pretty sure the ignition switch just bit the bullet. So by chance do you know where the bypass is for the clutch bypass is? Always a good to know. THANK YOU for the schematic. Tim

So, 2000 RAM, 5 speed. I have bypassed the signal wire and jumped to 12v and engine starts, I have checked all fuses and relays (to best of my knowledge), I also jumpered the clutch safety switch which did nothing.... Wait to start light still works as expected, what would keep the 12v signal from making it to the starter? I know I can just put a push button in to bypass but I want to make sure this isn't a bigger picture issue. This literally popped up outa no where, stopped at a store, and when I got back in it wouldn't crank, I had to roll start it, luckily was on a slight slope. Thanks in advance. Tim

Yes painful to the extreme, the shop did not help matters ANY... Vette your shops if you are going to trust your truck with them.

That is AWESOME... will remember for future reference.