Tim Waldo

Well there is a reason a new injector pump comes with a new over pressure valve. which I believe opens at 14psi... so in MY opinion maybe turn down your lift pump a bit... I have mine set to 15 or 16 psi. Not that I think this would affect the condition you described. But I have heard that 18+ makes for a hard start some times.

Sadly I have nothing to "work" it with... it is back to daily driver status... I may hook onto the trailer and go pickup some firewood but even that isn't "working" it like I KNOW the truck likes. :) and the NOT WET status inside and down stream from the turbo is what most perplexed me... I was expecting "wet" as well.

could the change in timing be WHY #5 blew through the cylinder? I just presumed the new injector pump was putting out way more pressure than the injector could handle.

how many miles were on your injectors before you replaced the VP44? HOW fast is your motor turning over? I know you sort of answered this but I mean like faster than it "should"?? When I replaced my VP44 my injectors had (to my knowledge) 433k miles on them.... New pump, old injectors and I blew a hole through #5, still ran, 1 code, melted IAC sensor (that is what the code was for). Cummins (read it in a post, so don't quote me) suggests replacing injectors every 200k.... I"ve been told on forums that it should be every 100k miles.... JUST A THOUGHT... if you lost two cylinders it might not start at all and be SUPER easy to turn over.

:) only 300 miles so not really put it to a test yet.... but I haven't noticed any more peppiness. But you have to remember, my turbo was creating boost... just sending oil along with it.... so I am seeing the same boost levels.... I don't expect much to change minus not consuming oil.

300 miles and oil holding steady, won't post again unless there is a drastic drop.

other than the oil drain at the crankcase being "oily" I did not find any restrictions.... the top side was clean as could be.. even no residual oil from having drained.... I replaced and painted the metal at the bottom side JUST so I could see if there was ever build up again. I did remove the outlet casing JUST to see if I could see anything odd... and of course... nothing... I TRIED to remove the exhaust side and it was quite tight... to the point I didn't want to risk my core exchange by breaking something by beating on it too hard....I mean I KNOW I shouldn't have been able to break it... though you never really know.

I would have LOVED to have done my own rebuild, I would have learned SO MUCH... but Rotomaster required it back as a core... OR their REMAN turbo would have cost an additional $200... Which is why I would if doing it again would have gone with the Chinesium Turbo with the "wing' for the waste gate actuator.... I am on the lookout for a cheap HX35w on FB Marketplace to I can do a rebuild.

SO... both the HX35 and HX35W have internal wastegates.... I mean in the way I WOULD describe an internal wastegate shown in the photo.... but the HX35W has a "wing" on the outlet housing.... also in photo... and yes I will keep everyone updated on the oil consumption or lack there of.

SO... new turbo installed, apparently (only a 100 miles in) I no longer am losing oil. A few things to note... NO ONE knows what the "w" is for on the HX35w, I"m calling it "W" for WING... because the HX35 has a bracket for the waste gate which won't work on our trucks... the true "W" does. After I ordered my Rotomaster Reman Stock Turbo 99-02 I did find some actual "W" turbos for less... but considering I had to send mine back for a core $560 was not bad...just knowing it was all American... $250 and not sending my core in would have been nice, I could have rebuilt it myself and had a backup for when the Chinesium turbo failed.... I did paint some items to match. Here are the photos. One of which was the OLD oil drain into the crank case... I THOUGHT the wastegate tubing was going to come in blue... so I'll replace it later. IT BLEW BLACK smoke the first 10 miles, I am pretty sure that was just getting rid of the soot that had built up in the tail pipe.. because after it ran clean.

:) I actually ordered blue silicone... 22mm I.D. as well as painted several metal components blue. After I got the hose off, it appeared to be silicone jacketed with something rubber, orange interior.... Reman RotoMaster HX35w should be delivered on Friday. Should be back up and running by end of day Saturday.... then the testing starts all over with hopefully NO oil consumption.

I just uploaded the service manual for the HX35/40 Holset turbo... I used it for likely trouble shooting my turbo... though ultimately I couldn't get my turbo apart to look at the one item that I questioned... didn't want to damage mine which is going back as a CORE... I hate it... otherwise it is still quite tight for a 450k mile turbo... I think my failure was Piston Ring Seal, Turbine (number 13 on the schematic). Guessing that the soot from the break in period is what got me... Replacing my turbo with this one from Thoroughbred diesel. Was the best price/quality I could find. https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/h8350108r/ Some additional information, it definitely was heater hose 7/8" OR 22 mm I.D. I actually ordered a foot from amazon because I wanted to replace the oily section... not sure why it was oily but I took it ALL out cleaned it up and painting it all flat black.

SOOOOO I am now 98% sure that it IS the turbo... I can rub a finger inside of the exhaust housing and VERY little carbon rubs off... but rub a finger in the tail housing and a noxious substance covers my finger and is hard to get off. Problem now is I have to put my old turbo back onto the truck, the A-Premium turbo can't be clocked far enough left because they have a rigid bracket NOT on the turbo housing holding it.. that bracket can not be moved. Last thing, while I have the whole turbo out, what do I need to order for the drain, it looks like just a piece of rubber hose... but it is oily so I'm replacing it. Suggestions on where to get a good reman turbo? right now I'm looking at Thoroughbred Diesel, they have a ROTOMASTER reman for $545 with a core, only problem is a 5 day lead time to get it.

after sitting on it and obsessing. I am going to go on and pull the Holset completely off and see if I have carbon at the exit of the exhaust manifold to the mate of the turbo.. I mean I'm literally at two bolts and and oil drain... I don't know how hot it has to be to turn liquid oil into the carbon covering the exhaust side of the turbo.... so MAYBE it could still be the turbo slowly leaking oil versus dumping oil out the exhaust. if the truck side of the exhaust manifold is sooty... then it has to be coming from inside the engine...at which point I document my oil loss and submit the claim... I just don't see how it would be doing that without blowby showing up or oil being on the ground or coating the entire length of the truck.

That is beyond my ability to diagnose and ultimately if it is drinking oil by anything internal to the engine, it is a warranty... I'm just trying to rule out external issues, while HOPING that it is something stupid simple that I can fix... I mean they will cover a LOT if it is a warranty but I really don't even want to go there if I can avoid it....

do you mean pull the turbo and look at the exhaust manifold ports... or do you mean pull the exhaust manifold and look at each cylinders exhaust port? and if I do that do I need to replace the metal gaskets? I actually have new gaskets for exhaust manifold to turbo.

Ok... got the back of the turbo apart finally.... sooty but dry..I was REALLY hoping for wet... Is it possible that the oil is vaporizing due to the heat? SO do I replace it with the cheap chinese A-Preimere turbo($250) I have sitting here or do I send it back and later get a Rotomaster Reman ($550 w exchange) Here is a photo of the inside of the turbo.

no movement in either direction on the currently installed turbo... I mean for 450k miles it is TIGHT!!!! but I also don't do stupid stuff like over boosting.. I'll take the "new" turbo out and see if my brain is just playing with my emotions.

SO I just received the "reman" turbo... the geometry is all wrong... it came from A Premiere. I know you can adjust angles a bit... but literally the drain is on the "top" and the oil feed is on the "bottom" not sure you can turn them 180 degrees.

is there a possibility the oil is going straight out the exhaust side of the turbo? I mean my main concern was that my oil loss was FROM the turbo(and could get worse)... otherwise my turbo is TIGHT...and I see no reason to replace it. I'm waiting on the new turbo to arrive (today) and will break the rest exhaust side down on Saturday to see if there is oil there. What size should the nuts be? If it is burning oil it would make me sad but that isn't my concern, DFC Diesel has already stated they will cover under warranty if that is the case.

so... no oil going to the intercooler or any oil on the air feed from the filter, 2 bottom nuts missing on mount to exhaust manifold (pretty sure they didn't put them on).

w150 signifies 4x4... and it is a 727 torqueflite automatic.

can anyone point me to a YouTUbe video on transmission removal on these trucks? or a good step by step guide? It's a little more involved than I thought it would be and want make sure I get it in the right order... or don't remove things that are not required.

I may do that with the old one.... just afraid to do it when I "need" the truck up and running.

and the only place that makes sense on a newly reman long block is the Turbo Shaft seals... that and I mean it JUST started drinking oil in the last 700 miles and I'm 17k on the reman engine. Turbo has 450k miles on original. Reman Turbo ordered, sadly won't be here till Monday so NEXT weekend before I can do anything.