01cummins4ever

interesting, also a lot of other good articles in that link.

Yep, that's the one I meant PDC box, not pcm, the big black/white one with bolt in center. And found out thier is a fine line between snug and stripped

I had the CCD come on a while back, I lost all gauges. it ended being a loose connection on the main plug on the PCM. got it snugged down and problem went a way. It was also throwing a code, I forgot what number but it related to a bad transmission circuit, between that and the CCD, I was really

Replace, if trying to weld it the u joint won't fit properly due to warping ang not a true fit

The pucker factor can go high real quick hauling liquids on steep icy roads.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-2500-2002-DODGE-2500-QUAD-CAB-4X4-5-9-DIESEL-86-223-MI-/322098531815?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4afe918de7:g:wngAAOSw2GlXK~88&item=32209853181 looking on ebay completed listings if they are getting these prices out of them, I really am going to keep mine 4ever. I think a low millage non-modified will generally bring more value than a rebuilt, or restored truck even with the correct modifications. With a new 4th gen for around 50 grand I can see why people would spend this much on a clean used truck. A few years ago you could pick up a clean 2nd gen for around 10K all day long, Im sure you could still find one but not as common as they were. If I had to do mine all over again I certainly would (I would just be a little better educated) I paid 22,000 for it in February of 2003 and It came with 20,000 miles, now it has 280k and I can see 500K or more in the future.

I picked up some 5000 k axles for my car hauler, swapping out the 3500 k axles. The deal is that the new ones are to narrow and I am hoping to extend them. I have a few options, one is to cut them in center and put a sleeve inside,or box the outside with a larger diameter pipe. Or option two is too cut the spindles out of new axles and weld them to a new pipe cut to the proper length I need to fit the trailer. being careful for a true alignment when welding on the spindles, also I know that some trailer axles are cambered and if I use new pipe I will not have a camber in the axle, so dont know if this is a good option or not. Or option three (which would be the most expensive) and the deal I got would no longer be a good deal, is to buy new straight axles with spindles already installed. The trailer is a 2006 Top Hat 18' with dove tail, it is a very well built and very capable of handling the extra payload, but with the 3500 lb axles I'm limited with what I can haul. I bought this trailer new at an auction years ago and when going home I noticed the trailer brakes did not work and crawled under to find the wires had been cut and did not match up to the wires on axles, and led me to thinking some one may have swapped out axles before I got it ,and maybe it was built with heavier axles, I dont know, No tag for weight rating anywhere. but anyway its going to get the heavier axles one way or another, Just wondering if anyone has dealt with extinding axles or got any Ideas

If you have the old style 2.02 heads (camel back) make sure they have the holes drilled in front to accept brackets, many of the old styles like from the sixties did not. the only accessory they ran was an alternator, and they used the exaust manifold for mounting the alternator bracket. the rest like a/c and power steering was not really an option on some of the old muscle cars. A 700 R4 would be a good option if you are looking for overdrive, its also a popular trans because of the lower first gear compared to the 350. it will just cost a little more, and probably have to have the driveline shortened.

As far as mounting all the engine accessories, best bet would be to hit up the bone yards and try to get everything off one engine, that way you know all the pulleys are going to line up.

Ditto on the factory hei distributor for the small block Chevy. They are a drop in and go self contained unit, with a simple 1 wire hook up. The 600 cfm carb would probably be sufficient for a mildly built engine, considering you have a mild over stock cam ( RV cam} and a high rise manifold. Are you running any accessory off your engine? Like a/c or power steering, if do look for brackets pertaining to the Chevy because I'm sure the olds brackets won't bolt up to the Chevy, probably going to be some modifications but doable.

I have to agree with W&F on service work. even though it was a concern at first. Now I think it's more convenient, it's like having a cat walk on front or just an easy step into the engine bay if needed. But their is a lot of different styles out thier so all may not be as convenient

pic of my deer deterent system. I hit a deer about a year ago and my truck looked a lot like HexOrz. not a lot of damage,mostly plastic crap but still an inconvenience. that's when I decided to go with the Ranch Hand with winch mount. If it saves me from having to pay the insurance detectable, it pays for itself I know its not a cure all for everything but its a good feeling knowing you have something mounted on the front of your truck that says I want to protect it the best I can. I hope I never have to try it out, especially on an elk or moose but if it does happen its better than having nothing thier at all. a good set of led lights aimed at the shoulder is a good Idea since most of the time them critters like to come out and hit you on the blind side.

I have been going about 4 years and about 65K. miles, since I installed lukes link. I did the tie rod ends, pitman arm and rebuilt factory track bar, I have not had to do any adjustments or shims. 90% highway driving, and a couple shots of greese at every oil change,I am confident they will last many years and miles to come. The only issue with the track bar link is that they are kind of bulky,and when turning on a rough road the front diff is bouncing and the differential cover will rub on the link a little. I used a grinder to take off some of the material around the link, and it seemed to fix the problem until I added a heavy front bumper and now it rubs slightly every now and then, but you really have to be in rough terrain and bouncing good. Lukes Link fix is to add a leveling kit but I decided to go with heavy duty snowplow springs instead, I haven't installed them yet, just waiting to get some shocks and do it all at once. Im sure that will cure that

My mission exactly! I just got done trouble shooting an outboard motor ignition. (Borrowed a fluke from work)) with the local marine shop getting 80 bucks an hour to trouble shoot and several ignition parts on the motor averaging 2-300 bucks eachI could not afford to be throwing parts at it.

great. thanks

I will be going down that road of splitting my 1993 Kubota b2150 in the near future, Its got the 4 cyl. that still purrs like a kitten and I have never had to do anything to that engine except fluid and filter changes, but I think the hydrostat trans. is shot, It looses ground speed and whines under load. attachments still function good, but if I have to go any distance it has to go on the trailer. I run a front loader, back hoe and log splittter,

probably going to go with a fluke I don't know if it will be used or new, As much as I would use it, I would think a used one would be fine, been seeing them for around $ 75-100. or about $ 150.-200 new. they are auto ranging so I assume they should be able to read ac millivolts.

So with all the talk with dvm for measuring ac noise and all, I began looking to upgrade from my cheap dmv meters, I'm not really electronically wired, but I can follow step by step instructions when measuring electrical stuff. I have been looking on line at some like a fluke 16 (which is auto ranging) Does that mean they are pretty much plug and play? seen some used ones on ebay for less than 1/2 the price of new. Being that I don't have a lot of experience with them other than measuring battery voltage and continuity testing, its hard to tell what your getting until you get it and start playing with it. I also need one that's sufficient for testing outboard motor ignitions, capable of hooking up a peak reading adapter, testing stators and coils and such. Any recommendations of whats out their, pics, model type. web links ?

I pulled the rear drums off my dodge two years ago at about 240k or so, thinking they were way over due for replacement. but after beating on the drum for and hour and soaking in penetrating oil to get it to come off. It wasn't really worth the hassle, They were only about half wore. So just proved that these rear drums don't do much on these trucks. They will probably rust away before wearing, I get better braking power with the 9000lb. fifth wheel behind it than I do with the truck by itsself

Ha! guess that's what happens when you live in the back woods, I have been with the same company for 20 years and have never came across a truck with discs, I have even sat in on new truck spec. ordering, and discs don't even come up as an option. We run mostly freightliners, international and mack, where I work I mostly do all the oversize loads with my rig. I have had my Freightliner since 2001, and personally hope to keep it until I retire from here. I dont like all the electronics and emissions there putting on these trucks these days ( just like our pick up trucks) For braking I believe mass friction is the best,, bigger drums and bigger shoes mean more friction area, but will also increase heat and take longer to cool, but with proper engine rpm and gearing, and use of jake brake, the brakes should see minimum use.

are you still running the factory in tank pick up tube? just wondering since you have a 3/8 fitting.

Interesting? I wonder how many of the 10% are tractor trailer or straight trucks, On our trucks Don't we get about 80% stopping power from the front disk?

Unless I slept and technology passed me by, Their is not a single commercial semi truck in this country running disc brakes, its just not possible with the air operated systems with spring brake and s cam mechanisms. All commercial vehicles are built and inspected by federal dot standards.

You should have no issues with that tow. I tow about 11k with stock set up and no issues. Do you have the receiver hitch on frame or bumper mount? You may want to consider a drop hitch of appropriate size to level out trailer while towing. I would bet that who ever renting the trailer would probably be able to set you up with correct drop hitch if you don't already have one.

Where are you measuring fuel pressure from, before fuel filter, or after or at vp, just wondering if you have flow problems .