gh0stman

I am also running the 50 SAE oil. Running cold vs hot I cant really tell a difference in shifts.

The following off your list is not needed: Manual trans adapter ECM or PCM (mine didn't need either and functions perfectly) If modification is required a smarty can flash a manual tune to clear up the issues. Manual steering column...The shift lever can be removed without removing the column. Just buy a manual cover if it bothers you. The shift tower can be solved with a shift boot from any parts store. Also add to your list sound deadening material for the hole you will have to cut in the floor. But as you say you have 500hp at the moment you will be looking at many upgraded components, ie clutch, input shaft if NV4500, etc. The roughest part of the swap is cutting a hole in the floor. Price wise to do the swap with all "new" material you will run about the same as getting your auto built to where you need/want.

Interested to see the picture quality

Dangit...You got me calling them to set it up now Scratch that idea...They will only do it for $110.

Ill have to feel around and see if they would charge me. Wish I had a friend close that would let me borrow a smarty. But in the south its not as blistering cold to really use the high idle feature. Not as much as the rest of the folks that are currently being buried.

Looks cool to bad I don't have high idle on my truck.

Interesting app, thanks for the share.

That's my thoughts as well just replaced my driver front wheel bearing assy as well. No squeels or metallic noise since. OP If that is your problem you will need a 41MM socket and a new spindle nut. Depending on your body weight you may need a buddy to help twist it off.

I agree, they must be on a first name basis.

I remember when I worked at a tire shop the bigger tires were deemed "balance" when they were less than 1. Other than that you end up with weights placed in random locations which isn't right.

If you have done a lot of removing the intake horn the gaskets are probably shot. I forget which store I got it from but it had both sides of the heater grid and intake manifold gaskets for about $14 after being shipped to the house.

I got scared the other day too. When I was hauling around my father-in-laws tractor. I wouldn't worry about the smoke unless it happens while the engine is warm.

They had to have some perk as to when the pump burnt up that it was easy to replace. I don't get why they would engineer such a fitting onto their pump.

How old is the pump?

Yeah already off the bat there isn't much room between the trans and the floor. But like Me said it would probably be best to just drop it out. No sense in risking the trans falling on you or getting damaged.

I am usually at 65-70 and run 5x3 on the edge. Took a while to comment something funky was going on with this site.

That's weird that you are having mpg issues with 60 hp injectors. I can still get 22 with my 150's and HX35.

Sounds to me like the electronics on the VP are on their way out. If it only does it when hot that would be my explanation.

1/2 all the way. Might as well get the most out of the flow with the least amount of restriction.

Agreed, Id rather run through the stock pick up without having fuel level issues.

I have seen I think on DAP's website where they will accept a HO in place of a SO. But not the other way around.

If its not slipping, I would atleast clean it up and make sure your surfaces are still good.

That is amazing. I bought a trans jack from them, not the cheap $40 one. Went to install the new trans notice the c-clip missing on the side of the lift arm. First thought DANGER, DANGER. Then get the trans into place and the stupid thing wont hold pressure with the bleed screw tightened all the way. I took it back after finishing my task.