SLEDWRECKER

Ccd stands for chrysler collision detection. Few things can make that show up. Could be the plug on the cluster or even the harness that plugs into the pdc under the hood, it has a bolt that goes threw it that never gets tight, it just seems perma stripped from the factory. Just make sure they are all plugged in securely. I think there are other things that can cause it too these are just my experiences.

I think the BD kit actually swaps the vacuum to the unlock side so you have a positive pull towards disconnect where as if you just plumb a air/electric valve in the lock side then your collar would not be "pulled" to the unlock position. I had a posi lock on one of my previous trucks and i got along with it fine, however it was not wife/kid friendly when it was needed as you kind of had to coax it in and out while moving the truck to find the "slack". I am gonna try the BD one next......just as soon as i get my motor rebuilt. Lol

01/02 don't have a crank sensor. If you do this swap you will need to swap your 00 crank shaft along with your front timing case and cam gear into the 02 motor.

Our shop has a test box that will plug directly into the VP pump and it allows you to run the engine at idle and high idle, i dont know what the exact rpm's are but it basically just tells you if the problem is mechanical or electrical. If its mechanical then it should still run bad whereas if it electrical then it should run normal. I think it would be beneficial to locate one to try.

Yep still got it.

Not sure if the injectors have anything to do with the code your getting for cmp. There is also a possibility that your cam shaft retainer is getting ate up a little and letting the cam walk forward, or it could have possibly came loose, either way if the cam walks fwd and the sensor cant see the tone ring then it will be confused at best. I know its a long shot but you've covered all the obvious bases already, its also not an easy thing to check. Not even sure if you could check it w/o removing the front cover?

No rhyme or reason why, other than just because. I do have a good used one for 125 shipped if you need one.

I dont know about fuel economy. This is a truck i bought for resale so i've only drove it a little bit

Good guess Mike, I put a good used one on it today and problem solved Thanks for the help

Somebody must have a guess?

I have a 100% stock 01 3500 SC 4x4 6 spd 3.54, 190k. Fuel psi 8-11 after filter under load, clean air filter, no codes, starts and runs great but no upper end power. I have ran it with a solus plugged in an monitored boost and it says its making 30 psi, turbo feels good, no boost leaks, we have swapped ecm's and map sensor with no change. I have down loaded a smarty on highest setting with almost no change. No power and no smoke even with smarty. I have even disconnected exhaust with no change. Has anyone ever experienced a VP failure with these symptoms and no codes? I guess thats probly what i will try next. Open for ideas though.

I'm thinking the early 98.5's must've had the tappet cover breathers like the 12V's maybe? Mine had it too.

Until? They still are.

I just finished putting my 12 valve back in my 98 std cab after a complete rebuild. Imho it only takes about 5 min. To spin the 2 front body mount bolts and the 2 front cab mount bolts out and also loosen the rear cab mounts, put a hi lift jack under the front crossmember that the rad sits on and jack it up about 4-5" and shove a couple blocks between the front mounts. Makes the whole in/out job much easier, no need to remove the motor mounts or the pan or the valve covers.

I was sketchy on this as well bit when i swapped a 02 D80 into my 98.5 i had no issues. Just bolted it in and deleted the proportioning valve and it worked pefect!

Actually unless your motor is super rusty you will be surprised how easy they are to work with. Even though they look rusty, most "heavy on the most" of the time they will come off/on with your fingers once they are broke loose. Good luck

Actually i did this swap too, and iirc the u bolts go down over the springs so all you really need is the bottom plates that wrap around the axle housing, your old u bolts and top plate will work fine. Driveline does need to be shortened.

Yeah also grab the pinion and see if its loose?

I put a posi lok on a 99 that I used to have, To clear a few questions up, No there will be absolutely no bind from leaving the axle engaged as long as your in 2wd with the transfercase, don't matter if you are on dry pavement. 2nd thing I will say is it was super nice for the lo 2wd option for backing campers or whatever into a tight spot, that was the only reason I did it. 1 big downfall for me (us) was that we lived on a mile of dirt (no gravel) and when it rained or snowed my wife would usually drive the Dodge and she would always fight the posi lock to get it engaged or sometimes disengaged. I would sometimes just stop and back up or even turn side to side, kind of like the old 81 chevys with the auto locking hubs, it was just bound up and wouldnt always shift in/out real easy, then the next time no problem at all. It didn't bother me at all but trying to explain to her what was happening was a no go. I think it is a good setup, just not real user friendly for people unfamiliar with them.

true that. can't never have too many parts laying around. I just dont ever plan on using them again so i figured get em gone.

It takes a minute or 2 but it will see 1500 on a pull even with the juice off.

Good point W&F I forgot about the tubes. Its pretty amazing right now, runs smoothe and clean even at idle, It will lope just when releasing the clutch but not bad. I have no use for the J&L 240s and would probly be willing to swap someone for a comparable quality set of 125's or 150's or just sell them outright?

I will be towing whatever I hook to it, sometimes a backhoe (15,000 plus the trlr) sometimes a snowmobile trlr, sometimes a 27' 5th wheel and boat, distance really makes no difference to me, as I stated I want to keep my foot in it weather pulling whitebird or bucking the wind. I understand on the long pulls I will have to drive sensibly no matter what, I just dont want to see much over 1300 when pulling hard for imtermittant periods. I already know the 240's are too big, it dont really matter why they are in there, they just are. They are coming out soon. I am just interested in hearring opinions if the 150's are small enough or if I should stick with 125's. I've been told that the 175's should work fine, I dont think they will but that's just my thoughts. Thanks for the input.

I know this is a dead horse but i need input from anyone that has experience. My current setup is HX35/ht3b, Edge juice (HOT) WAM, JL Machining 240hp injectors, Haisley head gasket with fire rings, ARP studs, 6 spd, SBC 3600 DD , 3.54 ratio. I think I have enough supporting mods for everything I have but I know the JL's are way to big for towing. I can easily stab 1500 in the back in about 3 seconds when I get on the juice. I have towed with this setup some but really have to be on top of it. I been there and done that and now I just want "usability" so I am fixin to order some new injectors from Jacob(diesel auto power) he seems to have some good prices. I have decided to try 150's but I want to know if they will be small enough to keep my foot in it while towing. Some say 175's will be fine but I dont want to do this twice. I'm also considering 125's. just looking for input from anyone that has experience with this. Thanks

I have one but I'm not too sure when you know if it is "worth the money"? Does it do what they claim? Yes, Would I buy another one for another truck? Probly not. If I could take it off and sell it for 100% of what I paid for it would I? No.So I guess overall I am happy with it. As far as shifting like a sports car? Absolutely not! Not mine anyhow, The NV5600 just dont engage quick enough to give it the sports car feel. The SBDD multiplies this problem, You just need to get in the habit of taking your time and not (forcing) it in gear. It will go when it's dam good and ready (as I tell the wife and kids when on the rare occasion they get to drive it)