jlwelding

When I backed out of my shop It idled for 3 min. then I pulled out on the hwy, not much traffic. So I can tell its locked in and I drive 1/2 mile down to the turn around just driving normal and I go about a mile and a half to the road to my house. I then head back up to the shop and its normal temp now and thats when I took it up to 3k in 3rd and 4th and it stayed locked in. I just took it down the road about 4 miles running 80 and it finally unlocked. Pulled down a back road for about a mile, got back on the hwy and its locked in and I hammer on it and its locked 2nd 3rd 4th and turns loose going into 5th at 2800 rpm. The old clutch would never unlock, at least this one finally did. Im looking into this its not right.

So I been listening to my fan clutch staying locked in for weeks even when Its cool out and it sounds like a jet trying to take off. So I go get a new one this morning and same thing. I dont get it. My old truck didnt have this issue. My old truck you could hear it when it reached a hot temp it would lock in. I dont think the old clutch did this in the winter I would have noticed. I stayed on the throttle up to 3k rpm and it still locked in.

So I have 3 injectors that show weak pressure and plan on replacing all of them. Any recommendations on who to buy from?

Good idea.

Looking around and ran across the Alliant apps with bell crank, has anyone experienced these apps before? Reason I asked is I have metatarsalgia which is swelling in the ball of foot. I use cruise control a lot due to hard pedal and just looking for a smooth or softer return spring. I have tried spray lude and it doesnt have anything to do with the return spring stiffness. My old truck had a softer spring, I should have kept that truck for parts. Just curious before I take heat to the spring to lessen the stiffness.

Still running the tunes it came with. Like I said I never had a apps surge at idle, sounded like it was running out of fuel, gave it fuel and felt like it was going to die. Turned it off and I dont know if that had anything to do with it or not. Michael suggested ohm the wires from ecm to apps plug. I hate electrical, never was any good at it.

So I just recently tapped my vp for the quadzilla and my new Timbo apps threw a cel. Started surging then threw the code. Never had one do this. I suppose Tim wont warranty it once you tap vp. I just hope its not related to tap. Set it to zero on the Iquad I guess its off.

I believe there is. Its raining cats and dogs here I'll confirm in the morning.

I have that and cant monitor injector pressure.

What the heck now? Gremlins again?

So I went on line and got scammed on a Launch scan tool. Nothing wrong with launch as long as you buy from the US. Yeah China got me. Anyway I really know better Ive always lived by the buy once cry once so Ive found Autel MaxiPro MP 808 for 600 bucks or go all out for 200 more on the new two month old new data, Autel 808 Z-TS. Reason is I have a 2012 Dodge 1500 4x4 that I believe is having injector problems. I need to get into it and see what the pressure's are. It has a slite miss to it and not throwing cel. Anyway the old version should work just fine I think, but then the wife goes and buys herself a 2017 Corvette loaded with bells and whistles makes me thing maybe the new data. I think I've already answered my question. But what do yall think?

Second seal leaking and thinking that maybe the tin cover is warped. Does anybody have this problem? I hate seal leaks with a passion almost enough to buy a billet cover. Any seal brand names better than others?

I had a apps that surged like pulling a half load of water when it sloshed forward and back. Then it worked just fine for about 2 months and right back to the same old crap. This went on for a year and never threw a code at all. I was told it could start the run away thing also. New Timbo and no problem since.

And the hidden things going on like added heat in everything. Eng,turbo,trans, rearend, axles and bearings, fuel mileage.

Just a update in case you are wondering. Replaced the apps and seems to be fixed, but I said that when the board was replaced on top of vp44 too.

Just curious if these temps are normal on a 80 degree day. Fuel Temp 103 Coolant 194 Eng. Oil 175 Air Intake 122 Thanks

Try to keep this short but its in depth. Little over a year ago vp was going out so got one from DAP, fixed for 3-4 months. Then slight surging started, best way to describe is like a trailer with half load of water. It only did it when cold, warm eng and never noticed it. Time goes by and its getting worse so send it back to DAP and they put a new board on top. Fixed, 3-4 months go by same thing again. Sent it in they test it say everything checks good, install and its getting worse. All this time it wont throw a code, its now completely dying for a split second when cold and still wont throw a code. I can set cruise control and Im pretty certain its not doing it or its just not noticeable. I have scanner pics of the vp rpm dropping from 2300 to zero and back up real radical. (Dont know how to load here could texted them if interested.) I have my Quadzilla hooked up and was curious if someway to monitor the vp and down load it. I have not replaced the apps because from what I know of the apps either works or it dont. Like a said the vp rpm spike up and down hard when it does it then it will run smooth of a litle bit then right back to surging. Im to the point of sending vp to another place to have checked because DAP says its fine. If its fine why did the new board fix it and right back to same old thing. Can this be a ECM thing? When installed the vp this last time I took a tooth pick and put very light dab of dielectric grease on each pin and also on ECM when I had it out to do push rod cover gasket. All pins look excellent, clean and bright. The quadzilla says ecm is a good 13.75 to 14.00 volts steady.

What have yall found to put in the neck of the Vulcan BHF filter to keep it from collapsing? Over the years I've just been careful to not over tighten and goten by this long.

Just checking out there to see whats the latest on apps sensors. I assume Timbo apps are still the go to? I looked up TPS on Parts Geek and it showed the entire bell crank included for 180 bucks just curious if anyone has tried them.

Are there any reputable made grill guards out there or are they all about the same? The 4 tabs where it bolts together are broke and its only a matter of time before it gets bad. Thanks

I dont know how much winter you have in Az. but I'll bet you can do away with grid heater completely. I deleted mine and glad of it, battery killing junk is all it is that is if you can get by with it. I live in central Tx and 40 degrees is normal lows. Dont get me wrong we do go through some really bad freezes but 3-4 days later and we're usually back into the 60's. I plug mine in a few times a season and if its that bad Im not taking my diesel anyway.

So I've been getting familiar with it a little, its still greek to me. I havent tapped the vp yet, just trying to see what to monitor. Went to youtube and saw a setting that had 9 different things in a square box with a lot of info on it. Im running an Iphone and maybe its on on it because of that I dont know. But cant seem to there from here. Anyone know what Im trying to explain that can tell me what to do to get it on my phone?

Saved the old rod, its now in my million parts bin somewhere.

What this guy thought was the depth of the plunger is not as deep as the stock one. Kinda like you say, Im sure the same plunger works in a bunch of other units. I went to the parts store I usually go to and he told me he would have one in but I couldnt wait so I got that one from napa. I went back and told him what I found and he pulled the one he just got in and it had a rod already installed. The wild part was he also had the paperwork stating a shorter rod maybe needed but no extra rod in the box. Anyway I got the new shorter rod put in today and its all good to go.

I never thought installing a brake booster, master cylinder and all four brake calipers could disable a truck for three days. So I installed everything and just shortly afterwards the ABS light and Brake light come on brakes start dragging. I bleed the brakes so much I ruined the bleeder seats. Pulling my hair out I just didnt get it. This morning I go and talk to a master Dodge mechanic and he knew exactly what was up. He had me put two 3/8 nuts between the master cylinder and the brake booster and go drive it. Sure nuff 300 yards down the road the brake light goes off the ABS light went off brakes stop dragging and everything is back to normal. The company I bought the master cylinder from used a different style plunger than Dodge and didnt include the new rod. The rod from the booster to the plunger is about 3/8 of a inch shorter than stock. So the whole time the master cylinder had pressure on it.