jlwelding

I will never give up my trans, motor, or rearend ever again. My old truck was a 5 speed, it was jumping out of 5th gear just every now and then. I made the dumb mistake and took it to a so called big shop and exchanged it. Me being dumb I didnt know I could have fixed it myself. Anyway 4 transmission later and two under warrenty(I just sold it) and I just heard the last trans is now jumping out of 3rd. That trans only had 10k on it but was 3 months out of warrenty. Never again.

Yes, I will be saving up for the Quadzilla and get back to ya. I'll check the rotation on that driveshaft. I hadnt laugh that much in a month.

Being a welder for 25 years I knew it was going to change colors lol. But I should have said also I was breaking it in. For the first 10 miles I really only got it up to 600 degrees that being at the head I didnt think it would transfer a constant temp that far down the pipe. But enough of that lets get to what we really like hearing. It spools good and it keeps it a lot cooler under a load, although Ive only hauled 7500 lbs load 10 miles from here on mostly flat ground I like it. When you ease into it the temp stops climbing at 900 and you can hear it working and it just maintains. I will get back to you when I get another 15000 or better on it. One thing that did freak me out at first was I pressured up system checking for leaks after new boost boot install and the elbow on the turbo had bubbles flying everywhere. I thought maybe the hose was cracked but I trimmed it back and soaped it up and again samething bubbles everywhere. I called Mitchell at DAP and he said that was what its designed to do. He also told me I could just get a regular elbow and put on there. Well I have parts from everything laying around and asked if I could use an old elbow from a Edge EZ and he said that was fine too, so I may try it and see what happens.

This is my first new turbo, do they turn blue on the exhaust side? I havent ran it loaded yet and its blue as heck. I need to get my phone set up on here and I'll try soon.

That was a job. If you are lacking in the fab department you might want to get some help. Everything was short anywhere from a 1/4 to an inch.

I am looking at the Screaming Eagle 57/65/12 T3, I mostly pull 15k lbs loads. Not looking to hot rod just pulling and fuel mileage. I have DAP 50hp injectors. Anyone here have experience with this turbo? I recently pulled a load into a head wind and I still had plenty of HP just couldnt us it because egt's got to hot had to down shift to cool off. Thinking this turbo might cool it down a little better. Thanks

I got one on order, found it on amazon. Figured I'm gonna need it anyway .

You think I can use the breather tube to test with? If I take that to the supply store surely I can match that up with some pvc.

So I was pulling a heavy load, about 21k and I kept having to back out of the throttle and down shift to keep temps down. Still had plenty of HP but couldnt use it. I noticed it was smokyier than usual, boost is still 19.50 and water temp would climb a little. I looked in the articles and found Michaels air charge rig. It says Cummins Service Products 3824556, searched and no luck. Who is recommended to order from? Thanks

Somebody been reading my mail.

I was trying to find a article from years ago about cleaning them and no luck. Is MAF by CRC sensor cleaner the same thing? I think I just remembered, clean then with acetone?

I guess Im more confused after reading a ton of options. So I mostly pull with this truck, no hot rod just hauling hay, tractors and equip. Eng. has New 50hp DAP injectors and I am ok with the power of the injectors and the HO motor. Really looking for mpg, a little hp would be nice too. So do they have a tune like this I guess the real question Im asking is what do I need? Thanks

Yep, he helped me with my slight miss from hell 6 years ago or maybe longer. Replaced everything twice, probably had 8k in parts, nothing left but cracked block or piston.

I gotta go back and fix this. I tighten the hold down first.

Backed off in Texas is 6or7 rounds each time. Anyhow, I got it figured out. I bought these calipers two months ago and the driver side was sticking first test drive down the block, got it replaced and thought that fixed everything. Passenger side was free as long as it was cool but as it heated up it dragged more. So it hit me its sticking too but only on the outside. It heats up the outside half of the disk and radiates to the hub. For instance the inside half of the disk was at 145 and the half to the outside of the truck actually at one time got to 290. I pulled caliper off on the passenger side and in the bushing you can feel it hanging on something rough in there. So I have a new one on the way. If it can go wrong it will happen to me no doubt.

problem with my 2002. The ebrake is dragging. The left side is 135-150 and the right side is 235 and as high as 280. I am pulling my hair out over this one, I backed off the adjuster 3 times now and no temp change. I backed off the cable adjuster till I only have about 2 inches of ebrake pedal from the floor. I pushed the arms that the cable is attached to back on the hubs, helping the spring in other words. Go down the road and no change. This is insane, the brake disk on the inside is 109 but when you shoot the ebrake hub its 200 plus, the caliper is 97-109, the hub where the outer bearing is 90 degrees. I take my temp gun and shoot between the rim and the brake disk.

Ended up installing it in the dually fender, there's good bolt holes there. Yeah I know blow a tire and its history but on a mega cab you have nothing.

I'm helping my son in law install a Fass pump on a 18 mega cab dually. Where it says to install is not possible, maybe on a single wheel. The leaf spring is mounted where they say remove bed bolt. Anyone dealt with this problem? Im about to drill the frame but he asked me to post for him.

Ok Im on my third trans seal, can someone mic the yoke coming out of the transmission on your 2wd truck so I have something to go by? My yoke measures 2.203, I just had the driveshaft rebuilt and balanced, they also cleaned up the yoke where it had seal wear. I dont know if trans has slack in tailshaft bearing or if they took to much off the yoke. When I push up on it I cant tell if the slack Im seeing is the splines in the out put shaft and the yoke or if its really to much slack. Thanks

Yes it will tell you the history of contaminants and you can go forward with info. Right now I would say a bunch of educated guesses. If you certain it has diesel then deal with that when the sample comes back to give you evidence eng damage has occurred. The diesel can be fixed from the outside anything else your going in.

I ran a gauge strapped to the windshield wiper for 3 days and now the curiosity is fixed. lol I just wanted to see a top and bottom number and was amazed really. Idle cold on a 50 degree morning is 75. Give it a little throttle and it will climb to 100. After it warms up good and 75 degrees it idles at 28 which will probably go down some in the summer, but at 60-65 it stays at 65psi. So thats all I needed to see. No manual gauge inside the cab on cold mornings.

These lower ends are tough as hell, I dont see doing damage in ten miles unless you were dogging the hell out of it. Like wil440 said take your time, do oil sample. Even after you drained the oil the new oil will have bearing residue in it and the lab will see it. Thats the best thing to do.

Are the go to filters still Baldwin BF1275 and Donaldson P551315 ? I searched and didnt understand it very well. Sorry for beating a old horse.

Well just so happens I didnt like my stock gauge so I went out and bought a oil pressure gauge to see whats up. I havent ran it hard or anything just down the road about 6 miles and at idle its 28 and cruising its 65 but during the summer Im sure its going to go lower. Will update this better tomorrow. Cold its like 75

Yeah and to see a actual number. My old truck had higher pressure according to the gauge especially at idle.