jlwelding

My mostly in town is 14.6, Hwy is 16.5 and that's with some red light driving. Never been able to get long distance on hwy only. Might take a trip to Vagas, that would be some flat fuel mileage.

Thats how mine started out. Now it grinds and a little hard to turn. I am trying to stop my truck long enough to get a used one put in.

That really stinks :banghead:

Does anybody have a diagram of the steering column, I have bearings going out or something going wrong in there. I tryed a search but no luck, maybe I am spelling it wrong

Short wheel base

I have not checked for codes, but yea it was cracking and poping and come to find out after replacing the spring it's the bearing making all that noise, because it still making noise.So how do you get the bearing out?

Yea it's hooked up

I replaced it and now the airbag light wont go off. Cruise control works just fine. Course the bearing is going out now.:doh:Will it go out eventually after so many warm up's?

I have not heard about the refiners putting oil in for lub.

Well I finially got out on the interstate and running 60-65 she is getting 17. So I guess it's not to bad for plain stock, but it really sucks the fuel in town 12-13

The miss you are talking about sounds like the exact same miss I had in mine. I had people here logging off when they saw me posting:lmao:My eng. would set and idle great all day long as long as you didnt drive down the road 1/8 of a mile, then it would start with a slight miss.I replaced everything under the hood, some things three times, like the inj. pump I even put a rebuilt head:spend:two wiring harness, three ecm's I finally put a used eng. in and it's been fine since.I would try pulling the injectors and clean them, also put new crossover tubes in.

My dome light in back seat flickers or you could call it fading in and out when the door is open or turning on the interior light. The overhead light is just fine, I dont have a clue, it's been doing this for a good while.

I looked for a exploded veiw of steering but no luck, does anybody have one?

My steering wheel has a squeaking noise coming from inside behind the horn. What could it be? And if I have to pull the wheel, what about the airbag? This is not a small squeak, you can feel it also.

Down here in Tx I dont use it a lot but it makes for a fast start in the morning, motor ready to go. I also use a timer and set it to turn on about 3 hr. before I need it.

Good time to replace all bearings while your in there.

Had to mow the grass today, the first time since last April

Thanks ManBy the way where you been?

My son's 03 cracked the head and never missed a lick, started filling crank case with water, peged out the temp gauge and that's all she wrote. This was at hwy speed, wonder why it still ran ok?

You mean Chevron fuel is just reg. gas, no ethanol?

I hope I am in the right place. Is there no chance of getting gas with out ethenol in it? I mean why am I being forced to use something that is destroying my lawn mower, chainsaw, weedeater, sock in the tank of my 99 pontiac. Yea I went to change my fuel filter, this car has been setting for a long time(6months) and it was full of black stuff with fine crap in it. So I figure I better pull the tank cause it's full of junk. I pull the tank and the sock crumbles in my fingers. The tank was clean so that has to be what it was.A friend of mine is a lawnmower and chainsaw mechanic and say's he has had about 8 chainsaw and weedeater in for warrnnty with piston fried due to water, that the fuel is a magnet for water. Still has come out with there own gas and thats what you must use with new saws and such.

Keep us up to date, just guessing here but I would say 9 out of 10 blocks will crack again. Lock and stich just told you it will crack again. Here's the problem, expansion and contraction, when you can control that you got it. Bolting all the plate in the world on the side of the block aint gonna stop it.If you ever get it sealed then keep the eng block pluged in it will keep it from contraction, then you might stand a chance.

I too was in your shoes and I will tell you as a welder by trade you need to find another eng. For what it will cost you to repair it right will far exceed the cost of a rebuild. The lock and stich (I dont care what they say) will not work. You would be better off to weld with brass then that. If you do weld it you will need to use block heater everytime you start it in cold weather due to expansion contraction, it will crack again in time.Like I said the cost will be high. I just found another eng out of a wrecked truck, gave 2k for it and back on the road again.It is tempting to buy one of those low mileage eng. but stay away

This truck only has 40k on it. If I do a consumption test on it will it reveal more or you think I need to have them tested out of the truck?Second question, how hard is it to pull injectors on a CR? I have pull them and replaced on my 01, oh, 10 times at least .I guess what I am asking is what is different.

I have had this 05 now for about 8 months and it really gripes me that my 01 will fire right up, half a turn and she fires right off. The 05 on the other hand takes several turns of the eng to start, what the heck is up with that? I usually miss the start up and have to hit it again the second time.