crf450ish

Just did the CAT filter replacement on my fass titanium pump.... called fass tech to double check which filter goes where since I couldn't find the factory instalation directions (had crappy service so couldn't look up online). They told me that the fuel filter goes on the side with two lines and the h20 separator goes on the single line side. Well guess what, that's backwards. I got home and found my paper printed directions. I only drove like 10 miles with the filters backwards.... did I cause any damage? Furthermore, why in the literal hell would anyone at fass tell me incorrect information?

I just drove it for 30 minutes on some back roads. Did a few pulls after it was well warmed up, everything seems fine. No loss of power, no missing, no leaks. I also revved it up to 1500 rpm and listened closely for any missing or unusual sounds. Everything seems to be fine. I'm still going to do what has been suggested.

Can I just remove the injector hold downs and then remove and replace all the crossover tubes and then retighten the lines and THEN torque the injectors down? OR do I have to actually pry up the injector a little bit and then reseat it before doing the above process? I know, I know, I shoulda followed PepsiOceans video. I got caught up in reassembly that I spaced on that.

Hey can anyone tell me what the tell tale signs of high pressure fuel leak might be? I'm being proactive here. Just buttoned everything back up and took the truck for a drive after installing head studs, injectors, pushrods, and valve springs. I adjusted the valve lash as well per the standard .010 & .020 (95# springs). I don't believe I did anything incorrect other than torquing down the injector hold downs all the way to spec and THEN installing the crossover tubes. Which is precisely why I'm asking this question. If I have to pull the injectors out and remove the crossover tubes and do it over again, I will. My thought process is to get my supporting modifications for compounds installed and tuned and squared away before I begin the install of the compounds. I want to know for 100% certain than I am good to go with the mods I've installed before I move forward with the compound install.

Thanks everyone, I just bought the one from rock auto. I guess I'll finish destroying my stock one and weld up the bolt holes I mentioned and use it as a grid heater delete part and sell it.

I did something incredibly stupid... I attempted to disassemble my grid heater, like the actual unit itself. Upon doing so, I discovered that there is special washers used to keep it sealed. Note to self: do not disassemble grid heater unit itself. Now I need a new one. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to un do what I've done. With that being said, does anyone have a nice used grid heater they would be willing to sell? Thank you.

Hey is there any write ups that you know of covering replacing injectors, pushrods, and valve springs? I looked in the write up and articles section but didn't see it. Possibly I overlooked it.

Here's a question...is it normal for there to be some condensation on the factory head bolt threads as they come out?

No kidding. Myself and dozens of guys have pondered the reasons behind why refineries put certain requirements in place. The only thing we've come up with regarding this particular question is their trying to remove as much doubt as possible...

We'll be moving to Chandler, AZ in the near future and I never ever thought about fuel temps.

Reduces co efficient of friction so as to achieve the most accurate torque.

I tried to reply but it's not showing up. Idk what's going on.

I haven't read the installation directions (yet). That makes sense. What's your opinion on using anti seize on head studs? Only asking because in refineries we use anti seize on mild carbon steel studs on heat exchanger caps as well as piping flange connection bolts. Refineries require anti seize on the threads, both sides of the washers and both sides of the nut. This is to reduce the co efficient of friction in an effort to achieve the proper torque spec. I've always been taught to NEVER use anti seize on any engine component fasteners, except exhaust manifold fasteners.

Why not do a hot torque?

Oh jeez, I'm just going to replace it. Heck, it's nearly 8 years old and served me well. Besides I'm installing a new one (Fass 165) right before I install a ton of supporting mods for my compounds build. New DFI 7x.010 injectors. I will be sending my one back to be rebuilt so I can wrap it up in a bag and stick it under my back seat as a spare.

I don't have any pictures of my draw straw in the tank, but it's been working flawlessly since the day I installed my fass pump, draw straw and new VP nearly 8 years ago. I used the 2 nickels stacked on each other method when I installed my draw straw. Somewhere on another forum buried deep in the comments I read that's how you measure the proper length so as to account for the "sag" the fuel tank will have when full of fuel. Like a couple others have said, I too use the 1/4 tank mark as empty, therefore I like to fill up before it gets to 1/4. However, there's been a handfull of times I just simply could not get to a fuel station before that 1/4 mark... I've been down to a 1/4 tank numerous times due to the fact I had no choice but to keep driving, many times in Montana when there wasn't a fuel stop anywhere for miles and miles. Each time this happened, when I did finally find a fuel station, I made sure not to decelerate or accelerate harshly as what little fuel there was left in the tank was sloshing around and air was being fed into the lines. A few times I heard the lift pump motor speeding up at the same time I watched my fuel pressure dip below 10 psi. I would always immediately throw the truck into neutral so as to let the engine run without a load. In my mind this was just a shot in the dark way of preventing any further wear on the VP because I knew there was air being sucked into the line. Always a rear end puckering situation to be in. Nevertheless, it's still going strong. I might install a new draw straw and use your method of measurement when I replace lift pump. My current lift pump is about on its last leg. Wish I would've known about your method 8 years ago

Same here. It's been wire tapped since the day I installed it nearly 8 years ago and fed with a fass150 (that's about to go out). Can't say enough good things about my VP44 from @dieselautopower.

Thanks for the info.

@Mopar1973Man I tried the method in your article. Followed it to a T. Same result. I ordered a vacuum bleeder and am waiting for it to show up in the mail. Probably shoulda done your method first.... Never ever had an issue bleeding brakes in my life.

So apparently the method I used is way incorrect when dealing with the ABS system on my truck. The proper way to bleed the brakes on my particular truck is for the helper at the brake pedal to NOT pump the brakes at all, but rather begin to depress the brake pedal and tell the guy at the caliper to open the bleeder valve. Onece the pedal is at the floor, the helper keeps the pedal pressed down while the other guy closes the bleeder, pedal should come back up on its own. Repeat this process starting at the farthest caliper from the master cylinder. The way that I did it inadvertently introduced millions of tiny air bubbles into the ABS system.....Soo next weekend I'm replacing the front brakes and going to try the method above and see where it goes. Worst comes to worst, I gotta take it in and have the ABS computer turned on and have them bleed the brakes. I feel like a bonehead saying that . I've never ever had issues working on brakes. Not even on European vehicles.

Hey guys I can't get the brakes to stiffin up at the pedal. Installed brand new rear calipers and rotors and pads. Haven't touched the front yet, that's next weekend project. But I have followed the correct process to a T. This is the process my dad and I used: Engine off- 1.Starting at the passenger rear, Dad pumped the brakes until they are firm as they could get and I cracked the bleeder valve and closed it when dad said close- pedal 3/4 way to floor. BLEEDER VALVE CLOSED AS THE PEDAL WAS STILL MOVING TOWARDS FLOOR, so as to not allow any air to enter the system. 2. Continued step 1 until all brake fluid was clear and no air coming out and pedal firm. 3. Performed step one on the drivers rear caliper until there was clean fluid and no air and pedal firm. 4. Moved to passenger front caliper and did the same thing.. 5. Moved to drivers front and did the same thing. Pedal was rock hard at this point. When we started the truck and pumped the brake pedal....it was like stepping on a wet sponge. What am I missing here? Is there a different process for bleeding brakes with ABS? My truck does have the anodized blue cylinder next to the master cylinder...

Is it a good idea to wrap the exhaust manifold with exhaust wrap? The stainless diesel manifolds, being stainless, really hang onto the heat once the engine is shut down. At face value, it seems to me that properly wrapping the manifold will eliminate a lot of residual heat once the engine is shut off. However, in every single under the hood picture I've seen on here and cumminsforum as well as Instagram and other social media, not once has there been a manifold wrapped with exhaust wrap. So that begs the question, what am I missing?

Check for power going to your fuel pump. I have a fass..not sure if Air Dog is the same, but when I turn my key on and bump the starter but not start it, my fass pump kicks on and primes. That's the first thing I would do. Once you eliminate that as a possibility, check for air in the fuel. I'm not entirely sure how to go about doing that other than spinning the fuel filter off of the Air Dog pump and literally looking in the filter. If it's even remotely not plumb full of fuel, there's issues. I hope some others chime in and send suggestions. I'm not too good at this stuff unless I'm there in person looking at it.

I have the @Dynamic stage 3 build 47re. He put fluid in it with the same specs as OE fluid, it already comes with the friction modifiers added to it. He told me to change it (can't remember how many miles after it was built) and I did, adjusted the bands and changed the filter and added the exact same fluid he used. I asked him about synthetic and he told me the stuff he put in there is just fine. I've put nearly 50,000 miles on it since it was built and I change the fluid religiously every 10K miles. Basically every other oil change. Might seem like overkill but I've never had an issue and for the money I spent on the build, I feel like a couple hundred bucks on fluid and a filter and some wrench time is good insurance. Plus, in 20 years from now, it'll be pretty cool to have a truck that's in just as good repair as what it is now. IMHO.....a deeper pan with added fluid capacity is more than enough to make up for whatever added benefits someone might obtain from running synthetic. More fluid= more heat dispersion= less heat= longer tranny life. That was long winded... LoL!

I probably should have done that to begin with. Hindsight is 20/20... But my ego back then wouldn't allow me to settle for anything less that the largest exhaust available.