leathermaneod

Well I just spoke to a very helpful gentleman at Gillette Diesel. He confirmed the size is 54x78mm. He also told me that he wouldn't be overly concerned about balancing. He said when they balance them, they don't have the equipment to balance the assembled core, just the shaft with the components on it. He said usually when the do balance the older ones, they are pretty close. He said many people opt to not balance on rebuilds and few have issues. I also asked about the turbine size upgrades and he said even with the new housing they have, some light machining is needed on the core for the bigger wheel to clear and it would be a little slower to spool. He also said to rebuild mine with a new wheel from them would be about $550. He also said they could sell me a core for about $400. So that pretty much clears up my questions on that. Buy a new wheel and rebuild it myself without balancing.

Do you guys know if DFI pop and flow matches their injectors or would that be an extra charge? I am still debating between 50hp or 75hp DAP or Vulcan or DFI....and now I have the added complication of turbo rebuilding and possibly going with a slightly bigger comp housing and wheel from Gillette Diesel....

Hmmm glad to hear they are all accessible! I am wondering how I should handle this now. Replace all seals, then get the system recharged, or try a can myself first and see how long it lasts. What would you guys recommend? Do you have a source for all the seals? Part numbers? Approximate price?

Thank you gents for your advice! I do have a copy of the FSM and will check it out. It is actually open on my computer as I type this from looking at other things lol. For some reason I still forget to check that thing. Not used to having such a useful resource like that yet I guess. If it is a leak under the dash, that will have to wait for some time in the future when I rebuild my dash :-) Are there any other connections with o rings that can re replaced? I believe I've seen some refrigerant plus leak stopper, I wonder if I would benefit from that? According to the fsm the clutch cycling repeatedly could also be a faulty low pressure switch :-/

Hey all, I noticed lately that either my ac is not as cold as it used to be, or I just hadn't ever used it when it was really hot (I normally use windows when my wife isn't with). Its still cool, just not ice cold. I have also noticed in the past that at idle my ac compressor will lock and unlock regularly. I was reading about ac issues now to try and see whats up and discovered that the locking and unlocking probably means my system is low on pressure. Now I'm looking for advice on how to deal with this. Should I try a do-it-yourself can from autozone? Ive been told in the past they are dangerous and not the correct way to service the system, but I've been reading and a lot of guys say they use them with great success. Is it worth a try or not?

My thoughts exactly ?

Wouldn't it be possible to get new boards made?

Would it be possible to build a new board using the original as a template and then start mass producing? Of course designing a new case wouldn't be a problem

Yeah I don't know. Like I said though, I found a lot of conflicting info on these sizes....

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll give that a shot and report back when I do.

Does anyone know where I might be able to find what size comp wheel my hx35w has based on the numbers? I want to have the parts before I tear it apart lol is there anywhere I can plug in the part number and have it spit out the size? I spent a good bit of time searching yesterday but can't figure it out. Lots of conflicting info. I found stock wheel on amazon that says it's by Cummins turbo technologies for a hy35, hx35, or he341 and has a wheel size of 54x78mm. It's only $40 so I'm trying to figure out if it's gona work or not....

They will. Its just I already spent $180 on the one from autozone and turned in my core. So, now to get another one from bluetop is another $180. I actually did order one up though. Ryan seems to be a really stand up guy! I called him around 1 east coast time and he dropped what he was doing to scrounge parts together to build me a box (he didn't have any on the shelf) and got it shipped out the same day, all because I asked if there was any way he could get it out quick because I need it asap as I'm taking a 600 mile round trip this weekend! He does usps flat rate boxes too so shipping was only $18. Oh and he spent about 15 mins on the phone with me before I called back to place my order, trying to help me out with how to get mine adjusted back where it should be. My plan right now is actually to try and return this box to autozone though. That way I can get $180 back instead of the $75 as a core. If not though Ryan assured me he will take it and refund me the $75. We really need to get the word out about Bluetop though! Assuming the box is as good as Ryan's customer service of course. $180 for a quality rebuilt box is a very fair price! He is also using the oversized bearing in the worm gear to take up all the slop from wear. Had I know about them before I bought this one from autzone, that is what I would have gone with. I thought the only alternatives were the insanely expensive redhead or borgsen.

Hows the blue top box holding up? I just ordered one today...Ryan seems to be an awesome guy. Dropped what he was doing to build a box for me because I need it by the end of the week. Got it shipped the same day and everything....very reasonable pricing too!

Thank you again @Wild and Free for giving me Ryans number. He was extremely helpful! Although now I totally understand why you prefer to leave this adjusting to the pros. He informed me that he rebuilds these boxes with oversized ball bearing for $180, which is what I paid for this crappy one from autozone. Really wish I had known that before because that's the route I would have gone. He said this could potentially be pretty difficult to get adjusted on the truck as the bearing preload should be set without the sector shaft in the box. He also said without the oversized ball bearings in the worm gear I will likely never get all the play out of the box. So now I have no core, a crappy rebuilt box and $180 invested. When I could have had a sweet bluetop rebuild for $180 smh. Hopefully others will read this and go the bluetop rebuild route. Just gona have to play with mine a lot now and try to get it where it returns to center more easily.

I appreciate you giving me his number. I've got to get this figured out somehow lol. I appreciate you giving me his number. I've got to get this figured out somehow lol.

Another annoying thing I noticed now after driving my truck, I still have very poor return to center. Makes it really hard to go straight down the road. Every correction has to be re corrected the other way. I don't know if the preload is too tight still or what. Kinda confused :-/ Any advice is appreciated

Alright so I've been fooling with this thing some more and I encountered something that seems odd to me. I set the preload back to approximately where it was and re adjuster the over center by tightening it till it wouldn't go anymore, then backing off half a turn since from newnit was backed off about 1 full turn. Well that was way too tight. Didn't return to center very well when it got close. So now I set it to 3/4 of a turn out from all the way in. Haven't driven it yet but when I tried to adjust it, I attempted to back it off more than a full turn and it would not go. It got just as tight loosening as it did tightening with only 1 full turn or so in between. Is that normal? Is it maybe because I did. It have the front end off the ground to remove the chance of binding?

I was about to steer him away from synthetic, but you beat me to it @dripley lol

This is awesome news! Mike, maybe you can become the source everyone is looking for for quality repair/rebuilt/new ecms!

I'm not saying I think anything is wrong, but in my experience with electronics on vehicles, you never can tell how they will act when going bad. I know it's hard, but I personally would force myself to just wait, give it a few more opportunities to act up before worrying or trying too hard to find a problem that might not be there. Good luck! I hope it's nothing :-)

Ok. Guess I'll try the over center first since that's easier. Then the preload if it doesn't help

Thanks for the detailed info! Here's another question, I'm starting to think my return to center isn't as good as it was before. If the wheel is pointed as far as about 10 or 2 it doesn't select center. It will come back to about 10 or 2, but not the rest of the way and I don't think it was like that before. Could I have caused that by tightening the bearing preload too much? I'm thinking maybe the preload was good but the over center needed more that what I tried? Could the preload being too tight cause weak return to center?

Thanks for the great info! Everything I read so far, including the tsb, said not to tighten it more than a 1/2 turn total so I was kinda scared to go to much. I assume by bottoming it out you mean to tighten it as far as it will go correct?

What's the most you would turn the over the center adjuster? Ive also come to the conclusion that my track bar is on it's way out as I can move the upper joint some by hand.

I assume the head has to be removed and disassembled and then cleaned some how? How was the truck even running to this point?