leathermaneod

My thoughts exactly

I'm just not sure that that joint is the problem. I was able to get it completely tight with the bolts as I have them in the picture above. There is no more play in it. But my very small dead zone is still there, though it may have gotten very slightly smaller. I'm probably just asking too much and expecting perfection out of a 15 year old vehicle lol Just realized I must have forgot to post the picture?? Lol anyway here it is

Ok that makes sense. I guess more what I'm asking is, is there anything other than level of charge that would cause the discharge air to be warmer than it should? Or is it all in the amount of freon, pressures, ect? Really? It seemed like it needed that much to keep the compressor from cycling though....what is the best way to let a little out and at what time? Engine running or no? Compressor engaged or not? High side or low side?

Hmmm so I guess this is where I run into trouble since I don't know how much is actually in my system. I know I added approximately 32 ozs to get to the pressure I'm at, but I don't know how much was already in when I started. All I know is that it only had around 10psi at that point. All that said, is there anything simple that would likely cause my discharge temp to still be high?

Thanks for the in depth explanation @IBMobile! So any idea what would cause my vent air to still be so warm? (Sorry if you answered that above, I didn't see it)

Sorry I must have worded that badly. I was not checking pressure while driving, just temp. I checked pressure before when charging, and then again over the weekend with my father-in-law's manifold gauge set. I believe the fsm says with an ambient temp of 90° you can have a max of 60 psi on the low side. So far when charging and checking it's been mid 80°s and I've seen a max of 39 psi.

I was driving. It cools off eventually but if it's really hot it takes a good while. I just figured if the pressure was only at 40 psi, and for the temp it was the fsm said it could have been 60 psi, there is some room for improvement...

I could certainly be wrong as well, just seen enough marketing hype(lies) to be slow to believe things like that lol

Im not trying to start an argument, but I personally would be shocked if they do anything different for those shocks than say the are for dodge trucks. I highly doubt they are physically different in any way. Just my opinion of course. Now I have heard and wouldn't be surprised if there are different lengths of the 5100s to account for different size lifts.

Well I tested the air temp out the center vent today and unfortunately it's about 48° at the coolest....so I'm guessing it either still leaks, or needs more freon. :-(

Well I tried this out today. Pretty disappointed over all. It was a lot harder than I expected and doesn't seem to have helped much if at all with the little bit of play I have left, though with the bolts I was able to get the play out of the joint :-( I'm also not sure if I feel safe with this shaft anymore as the one side of the upper u joint intermittently tightens up and doesn't move as freely. Not really tight and nothing I noticed while driving, just moving it by hand. Just makes me wonder if I compromised it at all. Anyway I guess this wasn't such a good idea.

My vote would be for bilstein :-) just curious, why amsoil and not the Mobil 50wt for your trans? I thought it was supposed to be one of the best for it?

Eh, it is what it is. Shouldn't be as much of an issue with clean injectors :-) if I had know what I know now when I was looking for a tuner, I might have considered quad a little more. But I was concerned by what I had read about their past performance. Plus there is something to be said for the comp's reliability and simplicity. I need to do some testing with the comp on higher levels with the wire tap unplugged to see if that improves fuel economy.

I don't want to go too big and feel like I really need a bigger turbo. I certainly don't need big injectors, like I said my main object is economy and pairing well with the comp and stock turbo. I guess I just don't want to go to small and be disappointed from where I'm at now with these BD 75hp sticks. Really wish I knew the actual numbers on them and why they are so smokey.

Thank you! I must have misread your prior post. That's very impressive for an injector that should be around 100hp isn't it? My current ones which are supposed to be 75hp (don't know the size or # of holes) and made by BD will smoke like a train if I get on the skinny pedal with the comp turned up....when I had the Smarty, I tried it out on SW9 one time, I got on it and holy crap! It looked like one of the trucks hooked to a sled at Diesel Power Challenge! Anyway I like to drive on at least 5x4 for mileage and I'd like to get some injectors that won't smoke out the road when it really starts to pull....I was thinking of going smaller in the 50hp range which I believe would be .008 I believe, or staying the same around .0085 which would be 75 I believe, but maybe if yours are that clean I could go up to .009....would there be any downside to going bigger? I have a stock turbo and plan to keep it that way most likely. Possibly a little bigger when I rebuild it.

No. you want to check AC by puttting your positive lead on the charging stud on the alt. Then you place your negative on the alt case or the engine block.

Thanks @Me78569! I should probably go smaller then. I'm trying to avoid any haze at idle. Really wish I knew what hole size the ones in my truck now are.

what size are your injectors from DFI? and what kind of milage do you get? I'm trying to figure out if I should stay with 75(.0085 I assume but don't know for sure) or go down to a .0080, or go up to a .0090....my main concern is clean, efficient power.

As suggested.... its almost impossible to see behind the grill, but it's there! The ones over the holes in the bumper couldn't be secured too well but I'm hoping they will be good enough. My only concern is rust since the wire is galvanized steel....hopefully it doesn't rust too bad at the cuts....at least it was cheap....

Sounds like I know what I'm doing when I get home from work tomorrow :-)

Thanks for the suggestion. Just Out of curiosity, why fine thread vs course? I was planning on some grade 8 bolts as well just incase. I would think they would be stronger than those rivets.... I thought about trying to get another from rock auto through their warranty, but I think this is just a design problem....

Lucky! Wish I had a 1st gen with a 5 speed!

But the OEM is the exact same design....do you think using bolts in place of the rivets to tighten it up would be unsafe?

Hi all, I replaced my intermediate steering shaft about 2000 miles ago because it had a lot of play in the upper joint (rag joint I believe) and it did not slide freely. I replaced it with a OEM Doorman one from Rock Auto. Anyway, it has already developed the same amount of play after 2000 miles as the original had after 250k miles. I will not pay $270 for a stupid Borgsen shaft because thats just crazy. So, I was thinking about ways to make this thing better and I came up with drilling out the rivets and replacing them with bolts so that I can actually tighten up that joint. What are your thoughts? Good idea or bad? Will it be a safety issue? Better ideas?

I love how he says "they all want the high output" I don't think anyone who knows about these trucks cares about HO, just the fact it is a 6 speed. I also find it funny that he calls it unmolested and never modified when he is describing all the mods done to it lol.