leathermaneod

So why does it spin with a cad axle? What causes it to move?

Thanks for that! How do you like them?

I cant imagine that it matters either, and I doubt you will be able to see any difference just looking, but here are some pictures. Its just a sticker on the box that says that, but I dont know if that is from Energy or the seller on eBay....I thought all that matters is the bar diameter....and I think Geno's usually knows what they are talking about....I hope there is no reason not to use these...I like that they are made in the usa and how hard they are. I will compare them to my originals before installing of course.

There is also the theory that inlet pressure at the vp44 has little or nothing to do with output pressure, but rather that output pressure is created by the internal vane pump. I'm not saying it's true, and I don't think it's been proven, I wouldn't bet $1000 on it, but it's interesting to think about and maybe why the original fuel pressure spec was 10 psi....

Thank you! One other random question, I just got my new Energy sway bar bushings https://www.genosgarage.com/product/energy-suspension-55159g/sway-bar-frame-bushings. I got this part number but off eBay because I wanted the free shipping. Anyway they are the correct size sway bar, 34mm, but the box has a sticker that says its for a 2wd truck. Do you think that matters? Geno's doesn't mention anything about it mattering if you use it on a 2 or 4 wheel drive truck....

Yes the recalls are, from what I have read, due to the ends snapping off. I also heard that theory about them not being aligned properly, but I'm not sure what they mean by that? How do you screw that up? Or do they mean not having the vehicle aligned properly? Btw I've never done a tape measure alignment before so if anyone knows how to and can give me some info that would be great....I know my truck is good right now, so I'm assuming I can just measure the distance across the front tires with the truck on the ground and then make it the same with the new kit?

I would like to know fuel temps as well, because I too believe that the fuel is heated. Especially on long trips and especially when the tank is near empty. Problem is, not that many guys have the ability to monitor fuel temp.

Oh ok. Well this is interesting. It would have been slightly cheaper for me to get the parts from autozone. Assuming of course that it is the t style. I think it is, but it's a little hard to tell when your looking at the individual components. Also, some of their parts were greasable, but not all. With all the recalls Mopar has had on this, I'm not sure which would be better as far as over all quality ....

No they are Duralast from autozone

I was just looking briefly at autozones website and it looks like all the pieces, including the adjusting sleeves, could be had for $250 before tax... This is very odd though seems like if it were that easy others would be doing it... http://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/tie-rod-end/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2008/6-cylinders-c-5-9l-turbo-dsl-ohv

Hey guys, random question just popped into my head. Since it seems like all these steering components need to be replaced together anyway, can't you just buy this stuff from autozone or Napa as 03-08 tie rod ends? I assume someone has already looked into it, but I'm curious now....do places like that not sell the t style?

Oh ok, well maybe they can be either way then. Some only go on one way, others can be any way. You dont happen to know the build date on his do you? I was just reading some more about this stuff and saw some of the recall stuff from back in 2014 and 2015. Hopefully thats not an issue anymore with so many revisions of this stuff? did you guys hear anything about all that in your research on this, and wether or not its fixed for good?

So would you use the 8.8's like were in it before, or upgrade to 10.9's?

I'm not worried about the ends, just the pitman arm stud. How much do you think I will have to trim it? I'm just hoping I dont have to cut the hex portion totally off as I'm afraid I wont be able to get it tight without that...then again, I dont off road a lot so maybe it wont be an issue.... @TFaoro what do you think about the drag link adjustment after seeing that vid? Doesnt seem like you can adjust the wheel...

Heres another question guys, So due to this steering upgrade, I've been reading the FSM on the clock spring and re centering and all kinds of crazyness that I hope I don't ever have to mess with. Anyway, it got me thinking, what do I do if the gearbox, intermediate shaft, and steering column don't all line up when I go to put them back together? I strapped the steering wheel in place, but what if the new gearbox isn't in the same place as the old one was with the wheels straight? or will it be from the factory? Just trying to figure this stuff out ahead of time so I don't have issues during the assembly. One other random question, do you guys think the sway bar bushing/steering brace bolts should be 8.8 or 10.9? the ones that were in it were 8.8, but I wanted to pick up some new ones just incase. The guy at Fastenal told me to use 8.8 not 10.9 because the 8.8 will bend where the 10.9 will shear off....he said they are stronger, but also more brittle....What do you guys think?

Thanks for breaking that down @Buzzinhalfdozen! Like I said I have no idea what I'm doing in this situation so this is very helpful! Now if the wheel is indexed, can I just move it 90* and then adjust it back with the drag link? or will that be too much for the clock spring? Ok so I was just reading the FSM and this is looking simpler. Especially with your explanation Buzzinhalfdozen. Thanks again for that! Now my only concern is that I don't turn anything too far for the clock spring. Is it possible to do that with everything hooked up? I know the usual time guys mess it up is with the steering shaft disconnected...if I wait to make any adjustment till everything is back together I should be ok. Or no? I just want to make sure I know as much as possible before diving into this. Especially since I will be making a 300 mile trip home to PA to get the truck inspected a few days after this lol Guys I don't think this is gona work....this dude claims it only goes on one way.... So I just read this and my heart sank....starting to think this is going to be a lot more customizing than I thought....I'll just have to see how it looks once I have the kit in hand. Do yo happen to have a picture showing this?

But isn't it easy to mess things up with the clock spring? And what exactly does re clocking the wheel do? Like are you just pulling the wheel and putting it on a few degrees on way or the other so the pitman arm is canted to one side then or what? Sorry but I am totally ignorant on this lol And wouldn't that throw off the number of lock to lock turns one way or the other? Like I said I'm totally ignorant on this but it just seems better to leave the steering as it is and make the parts fit if possible. Again I dont know what I'm doing, and I definitely want to learn and do this right, just don't wanna cause any bigger issues in the process.

lol ok I'll look into it at least. Definitely gona need more guidance before I mess with the airbag though lol. It's not worth having my airbag light on after just to avoid a little grinding. What exactly does re clicking the wheel do?

Oh ok. How do you re clock a steering wheel though? Sounds like grinding a little would be easier lol

Oh ok thanks! I don't like not knowing what things are, especially when they are unplugged. @notlimah if you have instructions for the steering brace install I wouldn't mind seeing them....thanks!

Whoa! now I'm confused lol. I am at stock height, stock pitman arm. Are you saying I need other special components to make this work with the new steering linkage?

Thanks! Yes hopefully. I guess there should be no reason I couldn't cut a little off of the end of the drag link to give a little more adjustment if I have to.

Ok thanks! Yeah I guess we'll see on the drag link. I read somewhere though that you need a drop pitman arm for it if you have over two inches of lift though so maybe I'll be ok. We'll see soon I wonder if I do run out of adjusting room, can I just grind one end a little shorter?

I'm planning to run without a stabilizer, at least at first. Mine is an aftermarket and the dust cover is ripped up and looking pretty sad. So if I can, I'm just gona take it off and leave it off. I looked on rockauto too, but I was lucky enough to find this one with free shipping so it worked out well. Hopefully, I don't have any clearance issues. I'm counting on everything working out as well as it did for the guy on CF. I am stock height up front too, so again, fingers crossed for now issues....I'll let you know how it works out. Probably wont get it on till the beginning of next week though. I just realized the guy on CF has 2.5 inches of level....I hope that doesn't cause issues for me.... @notlimah what part number did you get? I just saw one of the guys on CF mentioned 52122362AF, but I thought the most recent was 52122362AL? And whats different about 52122362AH? I think i see now, the AL is the most recent revision it seems

Hey guys, Just pulled the trigger on one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281931160092 I feel like I got a pretty good deal. I think there is one left if anyone else wants it. I figured while I have my front end apart anyway I might as well add this to the list....plus my wife gave me permission since it was my birthday the other day. I am pretty excited!