leathermaneod

I appreciate your input guys. I have access to a double flaring tool so no issues there. Never used it before but it sounds like it's easy with that copper alloy line. As far as dropping the tank, I really don't want to either. I don't ever like to mess with fuel lines if I don't have to. What about going up and over the tank along the frame?

Not trying to argue by any means, and I appreciate your advice, but are you sure the overfilling thing is a myth? I figured it was too, but I checked and The fsm does mention that fluid loss can be caused by overfilling.... I just don't want to go on the hunt for a problem that isn't even there.... I am going to check and make sure the vent is not plugged As well.

I guess that's a possibility. I'm just not sure how to proceed from here. What could be done if there is a wear mark? It's really odd too because it's only the passenger side.... I was just reading on cf of a guy with a similar problem. His did have a groove though, but apparently you can get a speedy sleeve for it. A guy on there also mentioned that it will leak if overfilled though. I just don't get why I didn't leak from the beginning when overfilled. Are there any bearings or bushings supporting that axle shaft that shaft that could be worn out and allowing too much play and wearing out the seal prematurely?

Hi all, my passenger side front axle seal was leaking when I bought my truck so I had a local place change it out. I looked into doing it myself but it wasn't cost effective duke to needing a special tool. Anyway about 7 months later it started getting wet there again. Not near as bad as the first time but still wet. I took it back and they changed it again, but couldn't tell me why it failed. They claimed it looked fine. Anyway it still hasn't totally dried out and its been a month or so. It wasn't wet enough to be able to be able to prove its still leaking though. Now I just went on a 600 mile round trip home and before I left I topped off the front diff because I hadn't checked it after they replaced the seal. Well when I got home again I saw what looks like some more fresh oil/grease spots in the wheel well, and sure enough the end if the axle tube looks more wet again. Has anyone's else had issues with these things leaking continually? I read somewhere that they can be a pain if you overfill the diff which I do....I thought it was better to overfill on something like that. I basically fill till it comes out the hole instead of stopping when its 1/2 inch below like your supposed to. Anyone else experience this or know of something else that's could be causing it?

Hey all, I got my truck inspected this past Friday and they told me that my hard brake line that runs behind the fuel tank isn't gona last much longer. My dad recommended just leaving the old piece in and fishing a new one through, and I read it quite a few guys doing that on CF. Does that sound like a decent idea? Anyone have any ideas they think are better? Also, I read a lot about this new copper/nickel alloy brake line and guys are saying it's great to work with and doesn't rust. Any opinions on that stuff? And what size are the fittings on that line? I believe the line is 3/16 but I don't know the fitting/thread size.... thanks!

I am in the same boat with having way too much into my truck. The only way to make it worth it at this point is to keep it forever. I just keep reminding myself that at least I have no payments....

Thank you for the info! Yes I understand that it is very bad if the wheel touches the housing. Did the pictures look like it has in your opinion?

Possibly, I don't think I've ever seen those in enough sizes for this though. Plus they are usually in a circular configuration which would not work for this. I was just at autozone and they had a mini feeler gauge but I don't think it had enough sizes either.

Heres another question, where in the world do you find a feeler gauge narrow enough to measure this?? Mine are like a 1/2 wide and not flexible enough to conform to the curvature of the compressor housing.

The inline filters do have a bypass so you don't loose any braking or steering if it plugs up. I honestly don't think it's important enough for me to manufacture a setup for a spin on filter...

Thank you for you input! Yes I already have a rebuild kit including that gasket. All I would need at this point is a new compressor wheel and the short piece of silicone hose in the drain tube. There is also a write up on CF on the rebuild process so I should be good to go. just found this, I may look into finding a rebuilder or see if there is a way to get a rebuilt hx35 and use mine for a core, just because of the balancing aspect. Not sure if there are any good options for something like that? Anyone on here know of someone who does quality work on turbos at a fair price?

That's good to hear on the balancing! Yes I have a little oil out the comp side. Just enough to make it a little wet in the elbow that's right there. None in the intercooler pipe that I saw before. I have cleaned it, but only wiped it out what I could reachwith a rag, so that didn't do much.

@Dieselfuture I am using a donaldson BHAF, and it is sealing properly. @IBMobile Just curious, why do you suspect to much play? I can definitely measure that clearance though, just need to find a feeler gauge that is narrow. I only have the normal wide style, dont think that would be very accurate. what is the axial end play compared to the bearing clearance? Also, any idea where to get a good comp wheel? Ebay has some for $40 but I'm not sure of the quality... Also, how big of a deal is it to get the shaft balanced after a rebuild? Any idea what size the inducer/exducer are? 54mm and 78mm? Found this on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Holset-HE341-Blade-Compressor-Wheel/dp/B01BUK4AR2

Thanks for the reply! Here is a link to the autozone one. http://www.autozone.com/filters-and-pcv/power-steering-filter/cardone-reman-power-steering-filter/13909_865379_0/ I understand that they may not be the same inside, just like the idea of being able to run to autozone and pick on up for $10 rather than having to order.

Hey all, So based on the pics Im pretty sure I need to rebuild my turbo sometimes before too long. I had a thread on here about it before, but decided it wasnt as urgent as I thought. I thought any shaft play at all was bad, and thanks to you all I learned that is not the case. Anyway, I changed my oil today and I was wondering what you all think of these pics. It doesnt seem to rub at all when I spin it by hand and even when I push it to the side and try to get it to, but in the lower left there are a couple spots that look like they could have touched....by the way I didnt mess with it too much because I've heard its very bad to spin a turbo without oil circulating through it. Yes I know the blades are knicked and I need a new comp wheel. Thats one of the big reasons I haven't rebuilt it yet.

Here's another question, is there any reason to think the autozone version wouldn't work just fine? It looks just like the magnefine....

Do you have a part number for that? And do you know the size of the lines? 3/8?

Hey all, Now that I have all new/reman power steering system components, I'm wondering if I would benefit from throwing in an inline filter? I've heard of the Magnafine before. Are they good? What are you guys using if you have PS fluid filter and where should I place it?

How many miles on them? Here are the pics from the install. TRE studs cut. Its a shame, had I been intending to get new wheels I wouldn't have had to do this. oh well, didnt really hurt them any. This is just a pic of the tie rod adjustment. We just made the distance between the wheels the same as it was before removing anything. Heres a shot of the drag link adjuster. Plenty of adjustment there too. Made me mad, just looking at these pics I realized how off center it it and that I should have fixed it when installing it. Oh well I guess. The steering wheel is straight so that what really counts. It has plenty of end in on each side I would think. Theres an over all shot. Nice how open everything is without the steering brace. So far I dont notice a difference without it. Here is something interesting I noticed. This was before the new stuff so the old linkage did it. Must rub the cross member under compression. Here is where the passenger wheel rub hits the tie rod. We first noticed it when I threw the weight off. Then as I was moving the truck the 100ft back to the front of my garage my buddy notice it had shaved off some aluminum slivers. With the tie rod against the wheel, it still had another 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch to go before it would contact the stop. So, even if you were willing to grind on the tie rod, you would have to take A LOT of material away to make it work. Especially if you had a weight on the inside of that wheel. The factory 17" steel wheels have a ton of clearance though.

Hey guys, Just got the kit installed today. Went super smooth all just bolted right on, no clearance issues at the drag link adjuster. Trimmed the TRE's to a 45* and good to go there. That is until I moved the truck and found that the inside of my passenger side wheel rubbed tie rod. That side on the newest part number (52122362AL) is bigger than the driver side and it will rub the rim of a stock 16" alloy wheel. Its so far off you cant even turn the truck to lock on that side. There was no way I was gonna grind that much off the tie rod itself so I went on the hunt for some new wheels. I picked up some stock steel ones off an 04 cummins. They work fine no issues at all. So now I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for good tires for the new wheels stock size is 265/70/17 and that is what I'm going to stay with I think. I will try to post some pics later. And I would appreciate it if anyone has recomendations on good all terrain tires. So far I like Hankook Dynapro ATM, Toyo Open Country AT, or Cooper AT3. I am looking for a tire thats going to last here so let me know what you think!

If you only notice this issue when the truck is "cold" I would try to make note of if it makes a difference wether the grid heater runs or not. I always notice a little slower start if my Grid's run. Just due to they batteries being slightly depleted I guess. I've experimented with my mpg fooler and the truck will start quicker without the Grid's even down to about 40°. i believe Grid's will run if iat temp is below about 65°.

Yes that makes sense. Thanks as always for the info. Hopefully we can get it sorted out soon and have no more issues.

Thanks Mike! We'll give that a try. Do you think I could have done any damage already?

Yikes that might not good.....we drove between 10 and 20 miles last night i think....when we got back the fluid wasn't really foamy though i dont think....it might have had little bubbles in the fluid because it went from clear to cloudyish, but it wasn't like foam sitting on top of the fluid at all. Hopefully I didn't hurt anything already....anyway its been parked overnight now so I'll check the fluid this morning before driving it again. Waiting on rain to stomp before getting back go work....

Hey guys, What a day! Finally got all power steering components back together today after a giant PITA! Everything was going well until I tried to put the pitman arm shaft nut back on. I started threading the nut on (by hand and then a rachet) to try push the pitman arm on without the lock washer by accident, caught myself and tried to take the nut back off and it got super tight and didnt wanna move. Got the impact and spun it off and the threads on the shaft and in the nut were destroyed. I don't know what happened, it definitely was not cross threaded. Anyway then I called everyone I could think of just looking for a stock nut(because my special one for the steering brace was now ruined). Finally found one at a dodge dealer an hour away that had one so went on a road trip to go get it. Btw my local dodge dealer told me they couldn't get it till Wednesday!! Then had to go and swap out the steering box for another at autozone. Got back and everything back together ok just without my steering brace, no big deal. Then started bleeding the air, lock to lock with truck off. Tons of bubbles. Remember the ENTIRE system was empty at this point. Once it stopped bubbling we turned the truck on and did more of the same plus braking and added some more fluid as it went down. Once it seemed good we went for a drive. Good news, I don't even notice a difference without that steering brace, bad new the steering and brakes were horrible. Radom loss of power steering at idle rpms, little boost in the brakes until the pedal hit a certain point then it would brake all at once. Weird feeling in the pedal, slight sticking and sometimes slow to return, steering wheel moving a little on its own when brake pedal pushed. I'm hoping its all just air working its way out or something, but it really has me worried that the valve in this pump is hanging up again like the last one. I drove it around for a little while and did lots of braking and turning in an empty parking lot to try and work it out. Finally started to get a little better I think. We'll see more tomorrow and this week. Its just really odd how it can be acting up at low rpms, blip the throttle and its good, and sometimes stays good even when rpms come back down, sometimes it doesnt. On the way home it finally seemed better but well see tomorrow. Going to hopefully get the new steering linkage on tomorrow. It acts very similar to how it did before when the valve was stuck in there. Only its doing this right from the get go and its not consistent like that was.