leathermaneod

I'd love to get the cushion and cover from Geno's, but I just can't spend that much right now lol For now I just swapped passenger into driver and driver to passenger. Just took out the four bolts. No removing of fabric. No modifying of the seats or anything. Direct bolt in for me....

Be prepared to cut the eccentric bolts on the front of the lower arms. I would order new ones from the dealer ahead of time. Make sure they get you both washers and the nut for each bolt. Both of mine had to be cut. I just take a sawzall and cut the bolt on each side of the control arm inside the pocket. Just be careful not to damage the arm or the pocket if you have to do this. You'll want lots of antiseize when you put it back together!

This is one reason I love having the scangauge 2 on my steering column! So nice to always be able to see all that data. Btw just a thought, is it possible that your switch got rotated so that it looks like its point to mpg when its actually pointing to 6cyl or 3cyl?

You need to check for AC volts, not amps....definitely a good idea to check with different meters thought :-) Also just because your issues remain with the fuse pulled doesn't mean you don't have excessive noise, the damage could already have been done....Good thing you got a new alt for use with your new ecm, though you don't need it if yours tests ok. But its definitely a good thing to check periodically and when you put a new alt on.

I'm personally not interested in anything that carries a recurring fee. I have too many bills already and even the little ones add up! Just my opinion of course.... I really like the ravelco concept, I've been thinking about ways of making my own version over the last couple days. However, the idea of having anything that needs to be carried with me and then plugged in like that is a little scary, one more thing to loose. To me the hidden switch idea is really the cleanest and simplest...again just my opinions of course :-)

Here you go :-) I think the strap is actually 1.5" wide. I just got a heavy duty Velcro one off amazon and my wife made it the right length. Sorry that side is kinda dark....the back has a slot just like the front and thats where the ring on the other end of the strap is. If you need more pics I can't take it out and get better ones, but I figured this would probably work for ya :-)

I think we also need to figure out how you would "Hotwire" one of our trucks. That we we can make sure our security system prevents that specific scenario. After all the thief is probably not gona jump in with a key.....I have no clue how you would do that though....maybe a discussion for the closed forum I guess....of course when Tyler gets his truck back he can tell us how they did it :-)

Mine is held by a 2" wide Velcro strap. I made two slots in the heat shield for it. I can get a pic for you later if you'd like....

I've been thinking the exact same thing lol. However, I would image that if any or many of us do this, we will all put our own little spin on it and not post a detailed description of the exact details or location of the switch. Hopefully that will be enough to buy us some time to stop/confuse/frustrate a thief, maybe even get the attention of others if the horn is rigged to blow as mike said previously. In the end, if someone really wants your truck, they will get it. Even if they have to show up with a trailer and winch.

I just had another idea! Use the clutch interlock! Mine is just jumped anyway because I don't have the switch. Totally clean and removable anytime you want... Mike I am very interested in your idea. Are you planning a write up or anything?

I could be wrong but I believe mike mentioned a way over on Tyler's thread. I just don't know how to go about it....

I want to rig something up using a power seat switch. I have manual seats, but I'd like to throw in a trim piece with power switch and wire it so that the buttons have to be triggered a certain way while turning the key. I just need some help with where to tie in to prevent starting. I'm also contemplating using the heated mirror button as mine don't work. Then I also like mikes idea of wiring the horn to blow when key is turned without the secret switch being pressed. Unfortunately I'm a novice with auto wiring though so I'll be needing some help with where to in and how to keep things clean ect. Hopefully would be thieves aren't on this forum lol

Those are awesome ideas Mike! I was thinking of making my heated mirror button into a start enabler since my mirrors don't work. That way you have to hit the button and turn the key at the same time. Then it would be totally hidden. Or better yet get the trim from a truck with power seats and wire in something with the seat buttons....I really like the idea with the horn though. Do you happen to have pics or a write up on how to do the things you mentioned? I'm still a novice when it comes to auto wiring....

@WiscoRedkneck I would be very interested in seeing that write up on power interruption switches....I don't think my truck looks all that nice, but if thefts of these things are getting that common maybe I should do something like this. I have enough into it that it's worth way more to me than insurance would pay for it. Main thing is to keep it clean and easily reversible if you ever need to take the switch back out.

What I don't understand is why people steel trucks like these?? I mean, you could never hope to keep it as your own and not be discovered, same problem with selling it. People have these trucks because they love them. No one would own a truck like @TFaoro's and not show it off. Its not a good escape vehicle...I just don't understand :-(

I can't imagine it would make it this far east, but I'll keep my eyes open for sure and I'll be traveling quite a bit in the coming weeks so who knows. Anyway I'm very sorry to hear this and I sure hope its found and is ok!

I haven't check again yet, but last I checked, with the pressures higher, it was around 45-48°.

Well I finally got around to retesting my system pressures after letting out too much freon, adding more, and then having not stay locked up and I just wanted to post the results for future readers. The next day the clutch was staying locked so I guess maybe these things just need a little time in between adding or removing freon to get an accurate idea of whats going on. Anyway, now everything is about as perfect as i could possibly get it. 80* outside Idle: Comp locked: High-193psi Low-30psi 1500: Comp locked: High-225psi Low-23psi 2000: Comp locked: High-230psi Low-20psi It did not unlock at all :-)

@JAG1, thats not a trans line, its the cable for my CAD disconnect. I'm not sure if the axle got pushed back, cant see how as the control arms prevent that, or if maybe someone let the engine rock back with the trans out? I'm really not sure what to think of it...I'm not planning on doing anything about it though lol not anytime soon at least. Unless someone gives me a good reason that says I need to...I cant see it hurting anything though as the pickup tube is at the other end...

I have heard that too many GPH is a bad thing. I'm not real sure on why thought lol. Maybe just that the pumps dont last as long? I also recommend the Fuel Boss. You can run it with an electric backup, or by itself as I do. Richard at GDP will help you build a kit with exactly what you need and adjust price accordingly. Only downside to the Fuel Boss is that if you want more filters, its a little more work to plumb them in because you CAN NOT put any filter before the Fuel Boss. I would definitely recommend more than the DDRP pump with the JWA. Even if you don't use the hot unlock, eventually the power bug will bite you and you'll want to at least try it turned up some. Best to have the fuel ahead of time. Also, I would recommend a Baldwin PF7977 in the stock canister, if you have the newer one with the black plastic lid. I'm not sure if that filter fits the old style. Otherwise you can go with the PF7777 I think, or the Fleetguard version.

Check out the dent I found in my oil pan when I had the axle lowered to change control arm bushing and adjust castor. Im not sure but after looking at it today I'm guessing it was probably caused by that cable at some point. That's my CAD locker. or maybe it hit th axle at some point. Can't believe I never noticed it before

Ugh so much money I need to spend on all this different stuff!

This is what I'd get. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/am-2640-z/automteter-z id like to keep all my gauges the same. I'm pretty OCD about stuff like that. It's actually a lot cheaper than I thought though. Then I'd just need the steering column pod.... this is looks cool! https://www.genosgarage.com/product/autometer-temp-sender-am2258/autometer-gauge-accessories wouldnt that fit right in the fill plug hole? wow and i could get this for 1/2 price with the purchase of the gauge! https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gm-dg-15012/gauge-mounts3 this is looking better all the time lol

Lol I could have called your liking my that post Mike. Problem is I don't have a temp gauge to compare numbers for you guys. Someone wanna foot the bill? JK.... or am I?

I know, I think I've read most of them by now. :-( Learned way more about oil than I will probably ever need to know. I just don't know what to do....I should probably just chance it and switch to the Valvoline 50 wt. My trans is about to hit 260k anyway and local napa can get it for around $120 for 5 gallons....