leathermaneod

Much as I love my manual, sometimes I think a built auto would be really fun :-) don't forget manuals have their problems too. I think I'd agree with @KATOOM in this case and say it would be better to stay auto and just get it built up....a swap is a lot of work and a huge expense. Then there's always the chance that it won't work out and you will have some issues that are a pain to get worked out. If you just get your auto built, it's a simple R&R....just my $.02

Hey guys, so anytime I hear something on CF that I find questionable, I come here to let the people I trust set me straight lol If any of you are bored, take a look at the comments toward the end of this thread and let me know your thoughts. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/2095985-low-mpg-new-post.html#/forumsite/20661/topics/2095985?page=4 As I say in the thread, I though ATF was a major no go for all diesels, and the same for 2 stroke in an egr engine, but these guys claim not. What's the deal?

Awesome job! Can't wait to do mine :-)

I'd imagine knowing this would be helpful when setting up the quad as well because you are setting fuel values at a particular boost level....

Wouldn't a 100hp be good for him though since he is wanting something that would spool a bigger turbo down the road? Would the quad be able to clean up a bigger injector until he ads the turbo? I think @Me78569 is running 100hp's. What size turbo does he have?

Pics?

Not a problem. Thanks for the tip! :-)

I'm am not sure about this as I have not asked myself yet, but I read somewhere that DFI uses all genuine Bosch components when building their injectors. I am constantly reading good things about DFI btw, not just from @Me78569 either lol. People sing their praises on CF too. I was actually just given contact info for Chis at DFI by a guy over on CF. You can PM me if you'd like it. I haven't called him yet as I'm not ready to spend the money at this point, but I'm planning too as soon as possible. I have been told he is awesome to deal with. I personally am looking at a 50-75 hp or .008-.009x7 vco injector from DFI, maybe even .0095 since @Me78569's are so clean. I was thinking of rv275, but I'm afraid I may be disappointed since I have 75hp right now. Plus as I believe Mike has said, you are less likely to get ones that are flow and pop matched that way. As far as turbo, I think 150hp(7x.011 I think?) would be the absolute max for the hx35, maybe a little big...this is all just what I have gathered from my reading on the subject. I'm not an expert by any means lol anyone who knows more please correct me if I am throwing out bad info :-)

So this is gona make me sound really cheap buuuuttttttt, do you guys @Quadzilla Power do military discounts on the quad?

Oh ok I guess I missed the point. Sorry about that lol What is the reason for wanting the 4th gen mirrors? I thinght they were the same just with blinkers?

Actually they do! 1a auto had a 3rd gen thread going about tow mirrors on CF, so I asked about 2nd gens. They posted this link! http://www.1aauto.com/dodge-mirror-pair/i/1amrp00916?f=575474&y=2001&utm_source=cumminsforum&utm_medium=ForumTowMirrors&utm_campaign=1ATony I'm totally getting these some day lol. What a great upgrade for updating the looks and functionality of these trucks.

Yes I was test closing the door by just opening the rear door. Unfortunately I have no experience with body work so this is somewhat frustrating to say the least lol

Thanks for all the help everyone! Mike, I did try readjusting the striker pin and got it so the door operates ok, but overall the fit is still wrong. My biggest issue, is that when I move the door out and up, so that the body lines up, the door will not close all the way. Something in the hinge area holds it out about 1/2-3/4 of an inch at the back and the interior light switch is not pressed. I checked for sagging on both doors and I do not get any movement out of the hinges, so pins/bushings are not the issue here.

I was just thinking of cleaning my turbo. Its still filthy from the PO's K&N....I was thinking of removing the intake and the charge pipe and then hosing it down with brake cleaner. Anything wrong with that?

Oh ok thats what I thought from reading other forums. I did try that, but I couldn't seem to move it at all....not sure what I'm doing wrong there....

I appreciate your help @Haggar, but I'm honestly not sure I could get it any closer than this. I tired every different combination of adjustments I could think of...I even tried moving the rear door and the latch. Oddest thing about the pinching is that it is way worse with the door adjusted all the way out (I thought the same as you when it first happened). Also, as I adjust out, then the body lines don't line up. I had to have it pull in towards the truck as much as possible in order to get it to where I did.... The pinching was also the least bad the lower the door was. So when I had it way down on the rocker, it was great, but when I move it up, it becomes a problem. Obviously having it all the way down is a problem because then it rubs. As far as tweaking the top of the door and shimming, how would I shim the door exactly? you cant put any washers on the hinge because one fastener is a bolt and one is a stud, so that would require taking the door off....I'm not exactly sure how you mean to use a 2x4 either....just cant picture it :-/

Alright so I gave this a try today. Unfortunately, not only were you guys right that its a major pain in the rear, it seems my door is unable to be adjusted properly for some reason. I'm guessing something to do with the fact that its not the original door...I did get it moved some, but the problem was, I would get it really close, but then it wouldn't close properly. With the rear door open, it didn't want to close flat against the truck. Something up at the hinges was holding out about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. I could not figure out what it was to save my life. Then with the rear door closed, it would latch, but I could tell there was a lot of tension on it wanting to push it open. Also, the interior light wouldn't go off at that point either. So I had to settle on this Not much difference I know, but I know I moved it up some based on the marks I made before I moved the hinges. My biggest concern is that the door does not leak at the top now. If you zoom in on these two pics, you can see that the driver side is not contacting the seal as well as the passenger side I also get a lot of wind noise on that side so I was hoping adjusting the door would help. Unfortunately, for the reasons I described above, I couldn't get the door in enough at the top to help that seal better. Hopefully it doesn't leak now....I was reading on other forum that guys with this issue just bent the top of the door in a little bit. I tried it, but I couldn't seem to budge it at all. In the course of all this I also discovered why my driver side rear door has never closed as tight as the passenger side. The bottom latch is broken! the little finger that clips around the pin on the body of the truck doesn't lock into place when the door is closed. I tried to take it off but of course the torx screw are in bad shape so ill be drilling them out. Anyone know the best source for a new latch? Anyone taken one apart before that might be able to help me?

Well this is really quite frustrating. I've been searching high and low and so far this is all I've found Brand - DuraLite Efficiency - 99.9% Efficiency Test Std - ISO 5011 Family ECB Rated Flow HR - 678.04 CFM Rated Flow LR - 448.5 CFM Rated Flow MR - 589.75 CFM Restriction HR - 7.99 MM H2O Restriction LR - 4.02 MM H2O Restriction MR - 5.98 MM H2O Style - Round Type - Primary That is concerning the Donaldson B105006 which is what I have on my truck. I don't even know exactly what all that is lol Do air filters not have a micron rating? Obviously there is efficiency, which I kind of understand. Then restriction, I get that, but isn't there anything that says how large/small of particles are allowed to pass through? Or is that what ISO5011 indicates?

Well I checked the hinge pins this morning. They are definitely not the problem. The door does not move at all when I try to lift it. I was rocking the whole truck lol. I'll give adjusting it a shot this afternoon and let you guys know how it goes :-) Thanks for all the help so far!

Hey all, Well after reading and contributing to this thread, http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/256272-Air-Filter-one-dirt-road-and-the-minder-says-Now!/page2 I am curious if anyone has a collection of data on various filters that conclusively shows which is best? Does anyone have oil analysis while using a BHAF? Anyone have a comparison between Donaldson BHAF and OEM filter? I know some of you must....I know I chose the Donaldson BHAF for a reason but I don't remember actual ratings anymore..... Thanks!

How exactly do I do that? Was yours low in the front like that too? or just sagging at the back? It was my understanding that if the hinges are worn, sagging will be the issue....i might be totally wrong on that though lol

Yeah I realize over all it is a much better deal, but I was able to get my comp for about $450 because of my military discount, so the quad is still significantly more, even if I manage to get $500 for my comp. And I still need a android device of some kind.... No smoke and power at the same time sure will be great....

Maybe Mike will hate his and want it to disappear..... lol

That's awesome! You guys definitely have me sold on the quad. Sure wish I had known about it 6 months ago lol now just need to come up with some spare $$$ and sell my comp! Only negative thing about the quad is price....