leathermaneod

What about the difference in map sensor plug shape?

Here's another question, are the quad boxes different based on map sensor/year or are they all the same and useable with an adapter?

Thank you! Is there a reason to keep the older tunes if you can update to the new beta v2?

Are older quad modules able to run the new v2 software?

Wouldn't hurt to shoot a couple blasts if compressed air backwards through the hydrobooster while everything is apart. Just incase.... After seeing how dirty my system was, I would still flush very well prior to adding any new parts. Just my $.02

Hey all, I need some auto transmission advice. My brother-in-law is wanting to trade his 04 hemi for a 96 cummins. Anyway the trans has some issues. I've got the 01 24v 5 speed so I don't know how to advise him and I'm hoping you all can help me out. Apparently this truck is sometimes hard to get to shift, but if you wiggle the selector, then it will sometimes shift through the gears, but tonight my brother in law said the owner was unable to get it into reverse. Do these issues sound like it could be the selector linkage, or is the owner just trying to make this sound like an easy fix? Just trying to determine if this is in need of a full rebuild or something like a valve body or solenoid... Next question is, if it does need a trans, will a trans out of an 02 5.9 gasser bolt up and work? We have a decent one available, but I don't know whats compatible with what. Thirdly, anything else specific to check on this truck before buying? We know to check blowy, but as I said I have a 24v so I don't know all the little things to check on these, anything else big to look at? The truck has a Fass fuel system. Why do guys do that on these 12v's? Don't they have a cam driven lift pump like the old VE trucks do? Thanks in advance for any help!

I don't know how on earth I've missed all this until just now! I haven't been on the net as much as usual with my move and new work environment, but still. Anyway, Mike I am very glad to hear your mother is doing better and that things have worked out for you both. Thoughts and prayers for her continued recovery and for you both as you adjust to the new norm!

$180 if you have a core to send in, about $220 with no core IIRC. Then there is shipping which was $20 for me to go from him in Utah to me in NY. Give Ryan a call and ask to confirm if you'd like. He is very helpful and great to deal with!

Mike, I think you tend to forget that most of us, unlike you and @dripley, have got our trucks 2nd, or 3rd, or 4th, or 5th hand rather than owning and caring for since new. I know you take meticulously good care of things, and I attempt to do the same, but in my experience, most people are not like us. Most not only don't take care of things, but they abuse them. This is why so many of us have these issues with parts that you and dripley don't have. Just my $.02 of course. As as far as rebuilding or replacing, I took mikes advice and attempted to rebuild mine when it was leaking. This is a good way to go if you can do it, but I was unable to get the piston seated back in the housing with new seals and ruined the seals. I should have had a ring compressor or similar but didn't. It really made me mad because it was over all an easy and straightforward process, but the new seals were just too big to fit in easily. Anyway I ended up going with Bluetop and am very happy with their gear. They also have outstanding customer service and great prices! A box from them is the same price as a crap one from autozone, actually cheaper if you have to buy without a core. They also put a sweet coating on the outside. Anyway I can't say enough good things about them. I'm glad I attempted to rebuild mine because it was a good learning experience if nothing else, but Bluetop is a great company!

I'm planning pretty much the same thing. How did you decide on summer blend? Vs xdp?

That is very interesting that Edge told you they haven't had issues with the pulses affecting their sender. I thought that was a pretty universal issue. Anyway just wanted to add that I would use a snubber and a needle valve barely cracked open to act as a second snubber and a shutoff valve just incase.

Well I got it installed today. Katoom, I'm sorry to say I forgot to take the before video :-( I got it done before you posted that so I didn't have that as a reminder either. I'm sorry, I wish I had thought of it, but I was in quite a rush today and just kinda got to work. Honestly though, with the little I've driven it so far, I barely notice a difference. Maybe a slightly deeper tone at idle, but very slight. Might have taken away a little of the raspiness of the straight pipe. No noticeable loss off Cummins roar or turbo whistle. Haven't done much towing or any highway runs yet to know if there is any drone or egts issues but I don't expect any. Again sorry about the lack of before vid, but if anyone wants an after I can get it for you.

I think it's very interesting and I appreciate you taking time to explain all that! Having dynamic timing is really cool in my opinion and it's awesome to be able to understand a little about how our trucks use it.

Thank you for all the helpful info! If you want to make a video that would be awesome, but honestly I have no intention of buying anything other than this MBRP muffler for $40 right now lol. I had just been toying with the idea of putting one on and kept seeing mufflers on Craigslist so I figured I'd give it a shot. I'm honestly more concerned about sound quality than the noise level being too quiet. I don't want to loose the nice soundnit has, and I don't want my egts to come up too much. That why I wanna install this in such a way that I can easily take it back off if it's not for me. At that point maybe I will look into the fte. On a side note, just saw that you are running a Donaldson powercore g2 air filter. How do you like it? Do you have any pics of how you set it up? thanks again!

Yes I have thought about it a bit, don't know too much though, but I'm trying to be supper low cost on this lol. Figured since I found a name brand muffler for $40, I'll just try to do the best I can with it and it will hopefully be good enough for me :-)

Just want to update this, so far after the alignment and steering damper, not a single instance of anything like death wobble. :-)

Hey all, So lately I've been wanting to quite my truck down just a bit. I LOVE the sound, but I've had passengers more often lately and it gets a little annoying when trying to hold a conversation. Anyway I found a new MBRP 4" muffler on my local Craigslist for $40 and I made arrangements with the guy to buy it. He said you can see right through it but it does have some flappers or something inside. I'm concerned about my egts coming up some, but I figured for $40 what do I really have to loose? Anyway I was just curious if anyone has any good or bad experiences with MBRP mufflers that they would share with me(good or bad sound, higher egts)? Also, my truck has a very nicely installed 4" straight pipe right now and I was wondering what would be the best way to install this muffler without hacking it up too much just incase I wanna take it back off? Finally, I believe it should be as far away from the engine as possible, is that correct? Thanks!

I certainly appreciate the advice! I have been wanting to swap out injectors and pretty much decided on DFI when the time comes, not sure if I wanna go quite that big though....maybe 7x.008 or .0085?....anyway, I'd also like to do the quad, I'm working on selling the comp first lol. Then there are the wheels and tires, I always wanted the alloy 3rd gens, but I didn't find anywhen I needed them, so I had to settle for the chrome clads. I actually like their looks, but they sure are heavy! Hopefully I can find a good deal on some alloys sometime before I next need tires. When the time comes I will do as you suggest and look into some 254/75/17's. In the mean time, what are your opinions on optilube? I've been reading about it some lately and wondering if it would be better for me than 2 stoke, especially since I don't tow very heavy that often. Then there are the different kinds, any opinions on them?

Thanks for the replies guys! I usually hand calc everything to be as accurate as possible and just use the scan gauge to get the most accurate odometer reading(gps calculated) and to estimate mpgs. I have not found the scan gauge to be very accurate except on long trips, haven't figured out why. Maybe I am just expecting too much then. Your numbers at 65 are right what mine are when empty. I haven't check at lower speeds, though I was able to watch it rapidly go down on the scan gauge above 65 mph. I know what you mean about tires, and my current setup is definitely not optimal for milage. I have heavy stock chrome 3rd gen wheels and 265/70/17's with a fairly aggressive tread pattern right now. I do have a bed topper though so that probably helps some. As for injectors, they may have around 50k on them, but not sure. PO put them in and just told me they are BD Diesel 75hp. I always assumed they weren't the greatest because I have read, in one or two places, that BD's run hot and dirty, not sure how true that is, but I believed it based on the smoke. However, now that I've seen Mike's smoke with the comp, I don't know that they are that bad. I just thought when I got the comp I'd be able to get numbers closer to Mike(low 20's) with it, but I've had the opposite experience lol. I'd also like to be able to add timing without using the max power setting and be less laggy. I miss the smarty for the mpgs and the zero lag experience, but I like the comp for the ability to change on the fly and the fact that I don't need to be reflashing the ecm all the time. Need that quadzilla!

Hey guys, So with moving lately I've had the chance to make more long trips with my truck, and also done a good bit of lower speed back road driving. Also done a good bit of trailer towing lately. Some empty car trailer, some loaded car trailer with a tractor like in my thread about first time towing, and some loaded 6x12 enclosed trailer. Nothing too heavy, I would say 8k max and around 3k average. Anyway I've been noticing my average MPG numbers with all this driving and they aren't where I'd like them to be. Unloaded on the highway doing 65 mph with 3:54 rear, best incan get with the edge is a little under 19. With the smarty I used to have I could almost hit 22! Now I never towed with the smarty so I don't have a comparison, but I would say mixed around town driving and towing I'm getting around 15-16. After my trip from PA to VA yesterday the scangauge is showing about 15 and that was with the 6x12 enclosed trailer loaded on the way, unloaded on the way back, which isn't all that bad, I'm just trying to figure out why my numbers with the smarty were better and why I can't do even close to as well as @Mopar1973Man? I still think my injectors aren't the best, but after seeing mikes videos, I don't think I'm smoking more than he was with his edge comp. why can't I hit low 20s unloaded on the highway? I have stock size tires. All maintenance is caught up on, no brakes dragging or anything, all fresh fluids. Should I switch injectors and see what that does? Maybe try more or less 2 stroke(I'm using about and oz per gallon right now)? Maybe try optilube instead? Quadzilla? What are your thoughts? What would explain the drop in mileage going from smarty to comp? Bye I always run with the MPG fooler turned on even in summer because my iat temps are only around 100° even when it's hot out. Could that be hurting me?

I'll have to second the loctite 545. It's easy to work with, doesn't leak, and I believe I even read somewhere that it won't hurt the fuel system if you manage to get some in there. Yes it's expensive, but a little goes a long way and it's well worth it to have a garanteed once and done leak free joint. Just my $.02 :-) btw I hate thread tape lol. Maybe because ive been using it wrong lol I never did three wraps like @TFaoro said... I have used ptfe pipe dope successfully. I would avoid using that on something post filter though.

For some reason the machine would not read it. He tried a few times but it wouldn't work. He wasn't sure why. I did ask his opinion on maxing it out though and he totally agreed, so it should be good to go.

Well this is the sheet from my alignment today. I think maybe this was prt of the problem!

That certainly makes a lot more sense! But since you were talking tires, I just wanted to let you know what I had read.

What adjustment slider are you talking about? I can't think of anything like that near the damper....