leathermaneod

If you are somehow able to show that it is the check ball, maybe by substituting the Airdog one, and FASS still wont help you, I would go to BBB with this. I bet that would get them to change their tune! Its ridiculous that you pay up to $700 for a fuel system and then have even little quirks like this. FASS didn't just start out, they've been doing this for quite some time now and theres no reason for this. Maybe they are using a cheap supplier for the check ball and its too soft, or maybe its something with the tolerance in there allowing the spring to be stretched as the ball pushes into it. I always thought they should have a better regulator system on those things anyway. Theres no reason you shouldn't have an adjustable regulator like their other pump without the filters.

Sounds like it's time for a Fuel Boss.... I am very sorry to hear about this though. No reason you should pay that much for a product and have so many issues with it.

Thank you! I called CJC and they said it will work. They recommended Carli or Fox for it, but I also asked about a Bilstein 5100 and they said that would be fine too.

After looking at Geno's, it's looking that way to me as well. If you don't mind, let me know if you find out for sure.

Thank you @rancherman! @notlimah Did you ever figure out what steering damper will work with the upgraded tie rods?

In this case, yes definitely! sorry for the confusion lol

Thanks for all your input @notlimah! I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me think through this. It's gona be slightly slow progress since we are in the middle of moving now and will be until next week, but I'm going to start working on this stuff little by little and see what happens. Gona have to make a decision on what tires to buy, maybe cooper atps or at3s. I've also heard good things about the hankook dynapro atms so I'll have to see. Then when I get them I'll do the alignment the same time. Then look into a steering damper maybe. I really do not like them though so we'll see about that one lol. As far as the track bar goes, I guess I'm a little leary of the heim joints....why is that supposed to be better than the typical 3rd gen conversion?

That looks sick!! I bet its even better in person!!

Wow this is awesome! Thank you all for the great input/suggestions! Let me get started answering all your questions/suggestions. I'll start with @notlimah since he was first to respond. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll ever be 225 miles north again, or at least not anytime soon, so driving that same stretch again is not going to happen. However, I have driven it many times in the recent past and never had the experience before. Its a 6 lane highway at the area, so I can't say for sure I was always in that lane at that exact spot, but I would assume I was at some point. I was not really driving any differently today. I was never carrying this much weight before though. I actually did not get an alignment. I know I know, I should have, but heres the reason why I didn't. My buddy and I took careful measurements before taking anything apart or taking weight off the truck. We then setup the new stuff the same. It always seem to drive pretty good, so I never worried about it. Honestly, I haven't been happy the last couple alignments I got anyway. My wife's CRV had the steering wheel left crooked, and my truck I know they didn't touch the caster bolts. So I was just figuring I had it good enough, maybe I don't. Guess I should get the toe checked. I know, I really need to just break down and buy a set of two matching tires. They are 265/70/17. The story is long, but basically I ended up with a set up 3 Mickey Thompson atz's and one Hankook Dynapro MT. I got them in a trade for my stock 2nd gen wheels with tires when I needed to go to 17" wheels for the steering upgrade. I am not a fan of the 2nd gen track bar at all either, but mine was worn out, and I wasn't about to drop $500 for a 3rd gen bar and conversion bracket at the times even though id really like to improve it. so I went with a lifetime warranty $75 dollar bar and figured its easy enough to change out when its toast. I think I put this new bar on 2k ago or less. Why dont you like the third gen bar? And what solution do you suggest? I appreciate your input as always @dripley! I thought it was interesting too how it did it on a bump I had not even noticed, but then all the others on the rest of the drive home and no issues. Thank you for your input @TFaoro! My shocks are Bilstein 5100 and have maybe 8-10k on them. Maybe I need to break down and put the damper on then if it will help protect the gear box. I did not realize that was one of its functions. Any recomendations on what to run? I have to make sure it will fit with the 4th gen tie rod... New track bar is 2k or less I believe. I don't consider it hijacking at all! :-) we are all here to learn and we post where it seems to make the most sense, nothing wrong with that :-) I honestly couldn't have even given an opinion on what was happening if they had not told me they could see it. It was so violent and quick, I didn't have a lot of time to analyze what was going on. Maybe the springs could be partly responsible. Yes I assume something is not right, just don't want to go crazy on anything since I already have done so much, and the fact that there are a few easy things that I know could be possible causes, such as the lack of damper, lack of alignment, and two different tires. The different tires are also a relatively new addition, I had a matching set of four until recently. Besides that, I honestly think the truck drives and handles pretty darn well based on what I've heard, wish I had one of you close by to compare with though. Also keep in mind, I've now put almost 12k on this truck, lots of highway driving on these same roads, and this has never happened before, not as much weight before though and the tires were a matching set for most of those runs. So I don't want to get wrapped around the axle and start thinking of this as an emergency. There are lots of little anomalies for me to tighten up before anything else. Alright now its ya'lls turn to give my your feedback on this giant book of a reply and tell me what you think my order of precedence should be for straightening out all these little things. I also need a recomendation on a steering damper if you think I need one to help protect my steering gear. Only thing is, I hate to make my steering any heavier. Will OEM work with the 4th gen tie rod? I have the bracket for it that bolts to the tie rod...or would I be better off with a matching bilstein 5100? Recomendation for a trac bar solution? not sure if i wanna spend the $$ on that right now, but its something to look into anyway. Thanks again guys! looking forward to reading your thoughts on all this!

It would be pretty hard for me to hit 275, maybe impossible to hit 250....sometimes I have to wait a solid couple minutes just to get my needle a touch below 300....that's what I usually aim for.

Hey all, As the title says I got a death wobble for the first time with this truck today. We were making the first half of the trip from old house to new and my truck was loaded to the brim with our stuff. Right about 1300 lbs worth between the cab and bed. Total weight was between 9 and 10k. I was driving south on I81 just before Syracuse doing about 65mph in 5th gear. I'm assuming I hit a bump, though I can't recall actually seeing one. Anyway it sent me into a violent death wobble. I know what it feels like because my dads old 1st gen used to do it pretty regularly. My sunflower seeds went everywhere, I had stuff falling on me from the back seat where it was stacked to the ceiling lol. It wasn't fun. My wife and mother-in-law, who were following in their car, could see my front wheels wobbling back and forth. I hit the brakes and got it under control and it didn't do it again the whole 225 miles the rest of the way home. It wasn't for lack of bumps either. I81 and the PA Turnpike are not the smoothest roads in that stretch lol. I am really confused as to why this happened. I have a new stock track bar, new 4th gen tie rod/drag link upgrade, new sway bar bushings and links, new lower control arm bushing with caster maxed out, new Bluetop steering gear, new intermediate shaft, steering box brace. Only things left to chance would be ball joints and wheel bearings, but the PO is supposed to have changed them, though I don't know exactly how long ago. The truck was just inspected though and my dad and I have total faith in the guy who did. My family has done business with him for a long time and based on past experience, I'm pretty sure he would have noticed and told me if ball joints or wheel bearings were on the verge. My upper control arm bushings are original as far as I know. Could this just have been a fluke? A one in a million hit a bump just the right way kind of thing? Or is this definitely an indication of a problem? I didn't get an alignment after the tie rod install. We just did it with a tape measure, made sure before and after measurements were the same. If the toe is neutral or pointing out a little instead of in could that have caused/contributed to this? I'm also not running a steering damper because I didn't feel any need for with the new tie rods, could that also be part of the problem? Keep in mind I also have two different tires up front, same size, but different tread, maybe that contributed as well? It doesn't make sense to me because the solid tie rod should not allow this to happen, unless the wheels were wobbling together. Where should I start guys? Any ideas or thoughts? I don't want to throw parts at this. I have a bad habit of thinking I have to fix perceived issues perfectly and instantly and that gets me spending more time and money than I should. I want to take a cool headed approach to this for a change and figure out if this really is a problem before i dig in. Where should I start? Let me know if you need any more details to help figure this out. As always, thanks very much for any and all input :-) ps- I've also noticed that I think my sway bar is slightly bent and consequently pretty difficult to get installed. Always need a second pair of hands. Not sure if that could be relevant or not.

As far as which probe to put where, the quad has the turbo timer, wouldn't I want that based off the hotter cylinders? Or just lower the temp that I want it turning off at?

Inspection passed this morning so we got our whole deposit back. Looks like I will be getting the quad sometime soon :-) I was just thinking, it's gona be pretty sweet because I already have 2 holes in my manifold, I'll be able to monitor the front three and the back three cylinders. Probably use the quad for the back three and put my Autometer gauge on the front three. one question I do have about the quad though, once its all set up and everything, can I run the truck just fine without having the tablet always with me and turned on? Like will the turbo timer still work and all? All tuning and defueling still work?

Thanks for the heads up! I'm not sure if I will buy instantly, may wait a couple weeks and see if the issue gets resolved. I also have a little more research to do and questions to ask lol need to call DAP

I would kill to own a clean first gen like some of the ones I've seen. There was one on the Baltimore CL a while back that looked like it had just rolled off the lot! Awesome paint too! Dude was asking like $23k iirc. It was an auto though.

Ok I must be missing something. I thought 2 stroke was widely accepted as one of the best additives for 1st and 2nd gens? What's this about optilube? Is it really better AND cheaper???

So the boss just told me if we pass our inspection tomorrow and get our entire security deposit back, I can order the quad. Super excited and lol

I would be half tempted to leave the caps chrome....kinda looks cool against the black wheels.... your truck is beautiful btw! Wish mine was that clean...

I think the auto vs manual thing is also at least partially kinda like the grass is always greener thing. I have a manual and sometimes wish I had a built auto. Never gona swap though lol Other guys have built autos and wish they had an nv4500 lol. There are guys out there doing manual to auto swaps! Not saying this is always the case, just an observation of what often seems true.

Tyler how were you able to tell it was genuine Holset? Just curious because the reviews don't exactly make it seem like a sure thing....not doubting you, just curious and also wondering if the seller is not always selling the same thing. I have a HX35 rebuild kit from DAP for about $100. Idk if it is even genuine Holset though, just figured if DAP was selling it, it must be ok lol. Anyway that would definitely be a good price if the one you linked is genuine. Mike you should make a turbo rebuild article while your at it

I ended up finding a used set of the factor tow hooks. They are very nice and super easy to put on.

Lol for sure! Hopefully he at least came out ahead a few times haha Lol for sure! Hopefully he at least came out ahead a few times haha

Yeah that's the one thing I would really like about an auto. Sometimes when I'm next to a powerjoke or a dmax I really wish I was quick enough to show them up. Can't be hard on my poor nv4500 though lol

The whole idea of using ATF just seems very wrong to me. I certainly wouldn't risk it in a HPCR without extensive and conclusive test data. I use 2 stroke regularly in my 24v. I don't really find it to be a hassle. I just keep the little 16 oz bottles in my door pocket and refill them from a gallon jug.

Thanks Tyler! Didn't the early common rails have some kind of in cylinder EGR or 3rd injection event? Won't the 2 stroke plug up a cat at all? Did you read that thread I linked? Those guys are convinced that ATF is some kind of miracle juice fore their trucks lol they do say it's got to be non synthetic ATF though.