leathermaneod

anyone?

@jmarsh223 are you sure the pop you are hearing isn't from the steering column? This could be your issue... http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com

I would look into Fuel Boss from Glacier Diesel. I dont think its necessary to have a backup system with the Fuel Boss, but that is how it was intended. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FB-98502 http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/98.5-02-Fuel-Boss-Install-Manual.pdf

Thanks hag, Unfortunately, I always find reasons to wonder if I did things right haha. Like on this, I wonder if that crimp is really better than solder because it crushes the lug so much that I wonder if it weakens it at the end there right before it goes flat ya know?....makes me think I should have just soldered the whole thing with no crimp, or just a pliers crimp, but who knows. Hopefully it doesn't ever break!

Hi all, My NV4500's pto covers are leaking fluid so I'm planning to pull them and reseal them. I'm looking for suggestions on what type of rtv to use and how best to clean out the case of the trans while I have them off? Also, any opinions on wether or not a filter is worth the money? They kits are $100 from quad, seems like a good idea but I'm not sure if it's a gimmick or not? Also I've heard there should be a magnet somewhere in the case and that I need to clean it off? Where is that? Should I add anymore magnets? What type? Sorry for all the questions, just want to be prepared. Thanks!

Also, I'm thinking I might as well replace the lower control arm bushing on the passenger side while I'm loosening up the bolt anyway. That way lowers on both sides will be done. Anyone have any tips or advice for replacing those bushings? Should I take the arm out and have a shop press the bushings? Or can I easily do this myself?

Well my driver side has new control arm bushings and new adjusting bolt and washers so that one will be fine to move. The passenger side may end up being cut out just like the driver side had to be. We'll see. I soaked it good with PB a while so maybe it will loosen up. Here are pics of both sides Passenger Driver So you guys are saying the adjustment marks, dash on one side, hole on the other, should be pointed directly at the front axle, or straight forward in other words? to have castor maxed out? also, should I have the front wheels off the ground for this? Or does it not matter?

Thanks for the replay @Haggar! I actually re did it last night before I got your reply. Turns out I had more cable to work with than I thought. Here are the before and after pics The old end after I cut it off I decided to go with crimping and soldering to be safe on this. Also got a marine grade terminal from West Marine. I used a hydraulic hand held crimper from Harbor Freight. If anyone has seen them, or is thinking of using one of them, just test it out first. It seems to work best if you start with a die thats a little bigger and work down to the size of your wire. Also have to turn the connector or you wind up with a big flattened out wing on each side lol. Sorry I don't have pics of that. Just make sure to practice if you use one of these tools. They are great for $50 with a little practice. Anyway And solder to be extra safe Then plenty of adhesive lined heat shrink, also from West Marine. It shrank more than I wanted so I added one more piece lol All back together Also ended up pushing the large cable down a little more to put less strain on the smaller cable. Its really lame how short they made that...Thanks for the help everyone! Glad I learned never to use acid core on electrical stuff again.

Where is @AH64ID these days? I've sent him a pm on here and on CF and no answer....

Thanks guys! I may just pull mine out then. One of them is kinda messed up anyway and I think they trap dirt and salt more than they protect.

Well I don't have plenty of length, but I think I have enough lol. I guess we'll see. I'm anxious to see what it looks like after a little over a year in adhesive lined heat shrink. If it looks totally clean I may not cut it off. But if it's corroded, I certainly will. I do welcome any and all advice though as always. I would like to get it taken care of tonight though so hopefully anyone who has something to offer will do so soon.

Thats not good. I think I may have used it on this connection when I did it the first time. I have a partly used roll and I cant think what else I would have done with it. Think I should cut the end off and start completely fresh? Or just get it melted and filled up with new rosin core if it still looks clean? Why do they sell acid core at auto stores anyway? lol

Hey all, I need to solder the end on my alternator cable to get a better connection. The one on the large cable that connects to the stud on the back of the alt. I replaced it in the past and did a really rough crimp and solder job with pliers and a torch. I've learned some things since and want to re solder it to get a better connection. I got a 150/240 watt soldering gun with a pretty hefty tip to use. My question is, should I use rosin core or acid core, or does it not matter? I know you cant use acid core on electronics, but I'm not sure if it matters on something bigger like this...any suggestions? When is it ok to use acid core and when is it good to use rosin? Thanks!

Yeah idk what to make of it. Maybe it's normal and I just never noticed it before, or maybe it was just a fluke. Hopefully it's nothing bad lol

@notlimah does your truck not have the wheel well liners in back? It doesn't look like it in the pic above. Did you take them out or did you get it that way? I'm just curious because I've though about removing mine to prevent dirt and salt getting stuck up there....same with my factory front mudflaps....

Hopefully this takes care of things for you. Hard stars are one really annoying problem with these trucks. Mine randomly has a slight hiccup after sitting overnight lately. This morning was the worst though, it actually cranked for a half second longer than normal. Idk what's up with that....hopefully it fixes itself or was just a fluke because I have no desire to tear into the fuel system again and I definitely do not have the time right now lol. I also had a really weird occurrence on my way to work today. I put the clutch in, and let the engine idle as I rolled up to a stop light, but my rpms remained a little high, about 820 or so. Very odd considering this was after the coolant temp was all the way up. It seemed to continue to do this as I let it idle all the way down between shifts. But then when I got to work, a few miles down the road, it seemed normal again and when I pulled into my spot and stopped, it was definitely idling normally, right about 800. In just hoping this isn't a pending ECM issue between this and the hard ish starts. No codes though, check with scan gauge this morning.

Oh ok well I should have been able to see if my high side switch was cycling with the gauge manifold too I suppose. And my highest pressure was about 280 or 290 I believe.

oh ok. I just wanted to make sure that couldn't have been part of my issue. Doesn't sound like it. Do you know how many psi this temps would be on the high side?

got another question for you guys. I was just reading over on cummins forum and someone mentioned that a weak fan clutch can cause the AC compressor to cycle on and off excessively. Is this true? If so how does it work?

Thanks for the input! Smoother has got to be better right?

They are the forward bolts on the lower control arms right? I know my driver side is good because I just replaced it. Needed new control arm bushings and the bolt had to be cut out. Not sure how the passenger side is. How do you know how many degrees you are setting it to?

Really wish I had know about this when I was looking at the edge. My comp is great don't get me wrong, but I'd love to be able to be making the clean power like you guys! Really need the injectors for it first though lol

Well the thing is, like I said I'm probably gona drain it to fix the covers, and the OEM stuff is about twice the cost of the amsoil. Plus after hearing what you said about it, I'm wondering if it would treat my trans better. I'd really like to go with the Mobil 50wt, but I haven't seen enough data yet to make me feel comfortable.

I have 4.5 - 5qts of the OEM stuff from dodge. It hasn't been in there very long either, but I need to drain it anyway to fix my leaking pto covers.

When you say it rolls to the next tooth, do you mean you can feel it catch before it drops in? My nv4500 does that quite a bit. I wonder if I would benefit from the amsoil fluid for my nv4500. I also get a decent amount of gear rollover. Maybe I need to have a talk with @AH64ID....