Towrigdually

dont know the fella, but follow him on instagram and he posted this. some decent info if others didnt know, some i didnt know either. really hope is continues to how he put the VP44 24v in his 1st gen truck.

Have the same yoke on my truck and noticed that cap issue when I first got it also it, a new yoke strap kit cured that problem. I also run greaseable moog super strength u-joints without any complaints.

Have fast coolers and installed in my truck from a trade deal. Have the filter also, might be awhile but when I pull the cover to change fluid I'll let ya know how the filter looks. And if it's even done anything. But it I will say since I've started running it the trans isn't as stiff to shift into 3rd, was getting kinda rough due to worn synchros

Been running around with a Bluetop for the past 40k, it's still tight with no issues what so ever. I'd buy from them again.

tested everything out tonight using the work fluke, used the alligator clips on the rear sensor, rear connection, and used the paper clip method on the CAB connector. All reading came out the same. I think it's time to Chase wires, I have a feeling my issue is behind the fuel tank so I'll be putting it on hold till I run the tank down more. Then the search begins.

Tonight I'll bring home my fluke from work, it's I. Better shape than my home one, and certified so maybe I'll get a better read. Will test the sensor, sensor pigtail, and CAB connection tomorrow again using the paper clip method. I'll post back results.

I used ohms at first, then switched to see if I got the beep

Sensor come back good, fluke beeps at me. So I guess now is time to play the follow the wire game.

when I read the abs CAB connection I read nothing. And when the brake pedal is pressed while running the scanner shows, 37 intermittent systems control module timeout

Where is the CAB connector exactly? Or what is it? I'm not sure if it follows but I can check.

Truck wiring at 5.60 ohms while the sensor is at 18.14 ohms

Ive replaced the rear sensor with a new from Napa and rock auto. Still no change. I can clear the codes and the lights go out momentarily then come right back on. The fuses for the abs system are good also, as are the underhood connections, along with the connection at the rear axle the pigtail is in good shape. the 74 code will come and go if I just sit with the truck running and scanner hooked up. Has anyone else had these codes with similar issues?

I'm not exactly sure what's wrong, but I did have the exact same issue when I installed the fass 95 on my truck also. had a spare relay off the old airdog pump, swapped them out and the code was gone after a drive to town. So it may be a faulty part causing the code to come up, if I remember right it's a power out of range code. Just an idea and sharing what my fix was.

Can't speak for everyone. But where I'm at there's plenty of hills and curved roads, especially heading off the island. Most areas are 40-45 but Usually set cruise at 50, depending on traffic in front of me. Leaving it in 5th, around 1800-2krpm. Would say don't lug the engine, it's no good for it or the rest of the drivetrain so I personally don't cruise at 1600 or lower, Just downshift an keep the rpms up.

Thinking of getting into hotshot work when I get out of the navy, even if I don't the bags would still be nice cause I'll finally have enough time off to take the mud truck south. But no C&C just a regular pickup. The reason for the post is I can get a set of bags off a C&C, but the person no longer has the truck to take measurements for me so I'm trying to save some money by not shipping just to find out they don't work.

I'll shoot ya a message!

The bigger fuel tank would be fun, I think the wife would kill me if I kept up my only stopping to fill up act! but what I found from the other day after I posted this. They might be the same if in reading this right. I might just get the bags and see what happens. http://dodgeram.info/2001/dimensions.html

That could be true, the information I have is off the internet and I think was a older pirate4x4 forum thread.

Does anyone have one of these trucks that can help me out with some measurements and answer some questions? im trying to find out what the rear frame and rear axle differences are with my 3500 PU to see if I can use a set of bags I can get ahold of. (I'd test but they are out of state) I know the axle and frame is narrower than mine but is the frame C-channel different? Are the axles just narrower versions of the stock dually axles with the same size axle housing tubing?

Well, tonight I dropped the motor, I can turn the blend door with fingers and it works perfectly, doesn't get stuck or jam up on anything. The Connector between motor and door was cracked, so I fabricobbled a piece of scrap steel tubing and it works, but the same issue still exist.

I've seen the heater treater fix, maybe the plastic is cracked and I can't see it. I'll pull it apart and check. Rather not pull the HVAC unit out if I don't need to.

Wonder if anyone else has had this problem before I fire the parts cannon. Heat was selected to full hot, went to turn it to mix cooler and felt no change till it was halfway into the cold range. Then only felt cold air from vents. Turned back to heat slowly and again, didn't feel any change till halfway into the hot range then only felt full hot. Checked fuses, checked the plastic piece between the blend motor and door, pulled control panel and all connections are good. Everything else works normal such as fan speeds and vent selections, even max cold. Im assuming the temperature select part of the panel has failed but it could be something different.

Only if Mike is classy enough for some cool refreshing coors or pbr. I only drink top shelf over here.

You would be correct, that's the new switch I got and now my oil pressure gauge works again. Unfortunately that price is correct, that why I ordered via genos. Cheapest I could find actually. ill have to look into that, it would definitely be easier than buying from pscpartsstore.com or finditparts.com and waiting for parts. I learned that today when the Napa guy at the counter could only find it when you looked for a switch. It's strange but I'll just have to remember it.

For Alot I don't buy Cummins either, but even at work or for personal use, whenever I buy an offbrand sensor it never works right or craps out after awhile. Truck usually gets Mahle, felpro, gates, etc. But I am interested in the 200 thermostat result when your through with it.