Rogan

Everyone, We're starting a TOTM section: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/194-Truck-Of-The-Month Be sure to check it out. We're going to try and shove a short-noticed submission this week, so we can get prepped for the first one. Be sure to read the RULES post! Thanks and good luck! M73M Staff

Only time I wait on mine to go out is if its really cold. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Its called "government job".. that's why they're like that. I know, I work with govvies every day... 90% of them, anyway. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Reminds me of my wife's van. She's driven it 11k miles in 3yrs. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

what's crazy is my old blue '96 was a base model, and didn't have cruise.I went to the junkyard, bought the cruise buttons, clock-spring, and servo from a 5.2L gas truck.Came home, installed the parts (15 min), and instantly had cruise.. :thumbup2:This '97 came with cruise, but the servo was missing, for whatever reason..The clockspring was toast, so I ordered a new one.I've put it in, along with a servo, and I've still got nothing..

U found the problem, or the ecm? Lol Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

A bov would surprise me more. Just with its presence. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

VASTLY different situations and technology.. The 3-CYL H.I. is basically killing the fuel to those affected injectors.. There is progress being done by companies to fit a true "engine brake" to the Cummins "B-Series" engines. However, I believe that it is being directly designed for the B 6.7 series. Many large diesel trucks (and even some larger RVs) are equipped with "Jake Brakes," also known as compression release engine braking systems. They are called Jake Brakes because Jacobs Vehicle Systems is the original maker of this sort of braking system. The basic idea behind a Jake Brake is to use the engine to provide braking power. If you own a stick shift car and have ever downshifted to provide braking, you understand part of the idea. When you brake a car by downshifting, you are using engine vacuum to slow the car down. A Jake Brake goes a step further, and actually turns the engine into an air compressor to provide a great deal more braking power. If you have read How Car Engines Work, then you know that the engine goes through a compression stroke. Compressing the air in the cylinder takes power. If the engine's drive shaft is turning the engine to brake the truck, the power used to compress the air is braking power. However, that power is stored in the cylinder, so if you let it, the compressed air simply pushes the piston back down. Therefore, you don't really get any braking at all from the compression stroke on an unmodified engine. A Jake Brake modifies the timing on the exhaust valves so that, when braking is desired, the exhaust valves open right as the piston reaches the top of the compression stroke. The energy gathered in the compressed air is released, so the compression stroke actually provides braking power. The main advantage of a Jake Brake is that it saves wear on the normal brakes. This is especially important on long downhill stretches. The principle behind the Jacobs Engine Brake engine retarder is simple. It's a hydraulically operated device that converts a power-producing diesel engine into a power-absorbing retarding mechanism by opening the engine's exhaust valves near the top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The engine creates a distinctive sound while in operation, but is barely noticeable if OEM-quality exhaust mufflers are maintained on the vehicle. But what's the fun it that?? Flaunt it if ya got it! (even though they're illegal to operate in certain situations/areas) In a compression release engine braking system for a turbocharged internal combustion engine, excessive stress associated with opening the exhaust valves of the engine near top dead center of engine compression strokes when the engine is turning at high speed is prevented by reducing the intake manifold pressure from what it otherwise would be at that high speed. This is done by retarding the turbocharger so that its speed is less than it otherwise would be at high engine speed. Turbocharger retarding can be accomplished in any of several ways such as by restricting the flow of engine exhaust gas to or from the turbocharger, or by allowing a portion of the exhaust gas to bypass the turbocharger. Basically, the wastegate is opened WFO. Without a Jacob’s Engine Brake (1) The intake valve opens and air is forced into the cylinder by boost pressure from the turbocharger. (2) Air is compressed by the engine piston. The energy required to compress this air is produced by the vehicle's driving wheels. (3) When the piston passes over top dead center and begins its downward stroke, the energy is returned to the piston (and to the driving wheels). Essentially no energy is absorbed and no net retarding work is done. (4) Normal exhaust stroke. With a Jacob’s Engine Brake (1A) The intake valve opens and air is forced into the cylinder by boost pressure from the turbocharger. (2A) Air is compressed to approximately 500PSI by the engine piston. The energy required to compress this air is produced by the vehicle's driving wheels. Near top dead center, the Jacobs Engine Brake opens the exhaust valves, venting the high pressure air and dissipating the stored energy through the exhaust system. (3A) On the downward stroke, essentially no energy is returned to the piston (and to the driving wheels). There is a loss of energy. This loss is how the retarding work is done. (4A) Normal exhaust stroke. A good link for explaining the differences of an engine brake retarder, and an exhaust brake: http://www.zafr.com/trucktcom/retarder.htm#engcomp

ha! no kidding!

okay, kerley.. If the green LED illuminates, the clock-spring is probably fine. This is testable, as well, as the CC wiring is fairly simple... with one hitch.. the PCM controls a lot of the CC functionality. I'd start by testing continuity between wire end-points.. Knowing all wires have good continuity between points takes any wiring issues out of the equation. Check the vacuum line at the servo (under the forward-most portion of the left battery box.) Ensure there is vacuum present, as well as a good connectivity. It isn't "that" uncommon for battery acid deteriorating the vacuum line. I'm also fighting a lack of cruise control functionality.. But you're already ahead of the game.. your light comes on.. Mine doesn't..

you've gotta "look" for the ECM.. It's kinda between the IP and fuel filter, but mounted to the block, under the intake manifold.

PCM on firewall ECM on driver's side of engine, below intake manifold..

it's all about the love

You're playing with forum fire, shane.. Topic-related, I like the cabover.. a lot.. but I can buy 2 or 3 Unimog 416s for the price of that.. THIS recently sold for $28k..

...when you're concerned that your wood has too much girth to fit in the hot box....when you store a cord of wood IN the house....when your electric bill decreases by $200 in the winter months....when you have to move 4 axes to get to the shop broom.

welcome, shane. where are you from? what do you drive?

LMFAO!!http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSumdbUV6RvLPk3e8Bm9iO0NtvuuzOsST5Mnp7Kn9zqInFbe2sEjMGAeOEi

so you're saying that it the does NOT come on, then the truck won't start??

I did a write-up here on the 2nd Gen of adding cablights. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=4726 Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Medic must be a Ninja.. LOL

I'm with John on this part.. 150s on a stock HX35 is a ton of fuel and no air. I'd be willing to bet your EGTs are sky-high under high loads..

smoked some more ribs and a quartered pork shoulder yesterday. I changed up a little technique on the fire part. Yesterday, instead of using the grate to hold the fire's fuel, I bought a $10 stainless steel colander from Target (3qt.) Reasoning: Try to keep the wood and charcoals together and confined, along with ease of cleaning, and longer burn times Amount of fuel used: I used a total of about 5qts of volume of fueling. The initial fill, and one refill of about 2qts worth later on. About 3 pcs of Hickory (3"dia x 10"long) Thoughts: There are both pros and cons.. [*]PROS [*]much longer burn time per fuel volume [*]ease of cleaning ash bin [*]less flare-ups when opening the woodbox door [*]CONS [*]The holes in my chosen colander were too small.. [*] Great for long burn times, but [*]bad for clearing ash. The holes were small at the lower sections of the colander, causing it to be quite difficult to shake out the ash as it accumulated. This causes the burn temp to be a little low for my needs, and I struggled to get the temps up beyond 200-210*F I can rectify the small-hole issue with my uni-bit, and will retest maybe next weekend. I had to suppliment the wood's heat with a propane burner. Partly due to it was a tad cool yesterday, and very overcast. My smoker is made of thin metal, and will disipate the heat fairly quickly when it's overcast..

Looks like m73m typed this LOL

pull 'em up, dab some silicone on the underside of each light where there is a corresponding hole in the roof. That's how I fixed mine, anyway.. And no, it doesn't take a whole gobbin' mess of it..