dripley

You can download a copy of the FSM in the download section. 100 times better than any Haynes manual.

I am working in Maryland. About 14 years ago I built 6 CFA s up here then and saw alot buses and other city and county truck using CNG. They all had signs on them advertising the fact. Fast forward to the one I am doing and I dont see them. did little searching and it seems that it has not spread out of the areas I worked last which was around Baltimore and on the west side in the Germantown and Rockville area on the northwest side of DC. A search of CNG stations had them pretty limited to those areas. I was a bit surprised that it had not spread more in the years since I was last here. Must be a reason.

Junk yards just keeps old stuff on the highway. Lord knows that cant be good.

Dap is a great to get your pump. Be sure to get one with a new computer. As far as the ones with one or two year warranties, pump tapped or not is up to you. I hear the industrial Injection rebuilt ones are the best. DAP sells them and maybe others, that would be a question for them and you to work out. My experience with dead started many years ago on my second pump. The OE went at 75k and was replaced under warranty. I did experience dead pedal a few times and took it to local shop that was highly recommended. The only thing they could find was low fuel pressure. I think they charged me $150 for the diagnostics and did not try to sell me a pump and install. I left out that prior to this I lost the OE lift pump and Dodge blessed with the in tank pump. I did not know squat about the fuel system back then and no idea who @Mopar1973Man was or what a forum was. So I added a BD diesel booster pump on the frame rail along with the in tank pump and never had another dead pedal issue. Fast forward several years and I had gone thru a failed ECM and at that time replaced my VP thinking it was the problem. It was the ECM and not the pump. All was well for about 4 years then I developed a surging issue with the truck. Some times it would go dead pedal when the surging got crazy. Farted around with that and even replaced the APPS to no avail. I also picked up some stray MAP codes during the dead pedal episodes. So one day I decided to put my old MAP sensor back in the truck. Well I broke it trying to hook it up and had to put the old one back in. When I was done no more issues with surging or dead pedal and have been free of that for over 2 years. Nearest I can tell is something is whacky in the wiring harness. One time the surging came back a little so this time I just reached in and grabbed the wiring harness and wiggled it and it stopped. I have had a MAP trouble that was cured in the same. There is a 5v signal wire splice in the harness right at the ECM that I believe is my problem. i just have not had the time to take it off, open it up and see. I just know that when I manipulate it either of the problems goes away. The moral of this story is other than that the wire splice I dont have clue as to what is wrong other than wiring. One day in the future I am going to pull my wiring harness give it a good going over. Any of the dead pedal I have experience went away with out changing the VP. My current one has 230k on it. I you have not gone over here and looked it may help . .https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-1 There is a lot of good info on their site. Sorry I could not be any better help. Are they rebuilder Mike?

Just turned 65 this year and plan to retire in 1 or 2 years. I work out of town all the time so it was easy to rack up the miles. About 25k a year and then the past 4 about 30k average. Trying to get home more often these days. Been on the road to long. Probably make that 500k mark about the time I retire. I don't plan on buying another this close to retirement. My son wanted to know how much longer I was going to keep it and I told long enough for him to drive me on my last ride. Not sure he knows what to think about that, but I know he will do it.

Welcome. Oh to see 130k again. I passed that 12 years ago. I passed 447k last week. She looks it but runs quite well. Good luck with the tyranny rebuild.

I never sprayed it straight into the motor, just on air filter. It might awful concentrated straight into the manifold. But don't really know.

Welcome. The above is a great place to start.

i used a 4 gauge for the charge wire from the alt to the passenger battery. I also used a 4 gauge to tie both batteries together on the negative side.

Do you think 2/0 is necessary? I am pretty sure I used a 4 gauge and did see the ac go to about .009. Kind of fluctuates between .01 and .008.

I lost count of how many I bumped the starter and cranked the engine after replacing the pump motor. Certainly way more than a dozen times. I did not have that hard of a time starting it after installing it new. If you have a a good heavy stream going to the VP I would not think it is the pump not being primed. You could shoot a little starter fluid and see if fires. Use it very sparingly. I would think it is warm enough out your way the grids wont come on. Might be an air bubble in the VP.

I replaced my pump motor several years and spent an hour and a half trying to get primed. That's the only time that it was that hard to get started. It did finally start and I never figured out why it was so stubborn that time. I would check over anything messed with on the install to be sure all is tight.

I thought y'all were talking about locomotives and not smaller scale. Shrinking the tech to smaller is definitely above my paygrade. Things are changing and it is coming.

I am with you on the electrical stuff. I did the 2/0 cable out of personal preference and was not that expensive. Made them myself out of welding cable with soldered terminal ends. Also used the military style battery terminals. Had about $120 in the whole deal IIRC. Did that before @W-T came out with that article. Check your ac voltage before and after and see what difference it makes. Mine went from .035 to .01.

Great write up. Helpful to even the electrically challenged as my self.

Is it trying to fire at all with 4 and 5 closed?

Diesel/electric locomotives don't rely on batteries though, except starting the diesel engine or am I missing something?

If you go back and read what all @W-Thas in his truck you would understand why did all of those extra battery cables. His truck has high electrical demands due his radios and such plus a much higher output alternator. Personally I did not. I did a while back replace all my battery cables with 2/0 cable and I did run a ground wire from battery ground to battery ground, 4 gauge I believe. I did see a good reduction in the ac voltage prior to the extra ground wire but figured it could not hurt to run it, so I did. I just bought a pre made 60" cable from the parts store.

Kind of like an energy producing exhaust brake. I always wondered why a concept like this would not work on a smaller scale. It has always amazed me how power the locomotives put to the rails.

Welcome

Maybe the F status just means you're F'd.

Never look down the mortar tube with live fire works inside. Sayeth the chicken man. I am proud you, you even got the news paper right.

I know Dodge does not have one. Thought maybe the freightliner might.

Would not have thought that since my 02 did not have one.

We have blasted a lot stuff in past with the neighbors and we all have hoses at the ready. No harm in it as far as the red necks I run with are concerned and most enjoy the show, though I cant speak for all. I love fireworks, the bigger the better.