Jump to content

dripley

Retired Staff
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dripley

  1. if i am not mistaken the scharder valve at the vp is screwed into a tapped banjo bolt. if i am right you could remove the schrader valve and in stall a needle valve there for the time being until you figure out what you want to do. be aware that the water hammer form the pump will be very storng at theis location and the needle valve will need to be barely cracked open. if your gauge starts fluctuating you need to close the vale more. i have mine tapped into the big line kit between the fuel canister and the vp. the valve is barely cracked open. Mike has a good video on here about how the gauge should react when you crank the truck. the gauge will take a couple of seconds to reach pressure when open properly.
  2. the only way to leak thru the vp is to run uphill.
  3. just a little sneeze. min has done it since it was new.
  4. same numbers with an ADII 165
  5. you sure you dont have aleak somewhere. cant see how the fuel would go completely out of the canister unless it was leaking.
  6. wlecome sir.
  7. homeowner 1 telemarketer 00.
  8. what i was trying to say was if you want the computer for the gauges why spend the money on the mechanical ones. i pesonally have the mechanical ones because i really did not want to mess with a computer to use them. mine are in the a piller, i drilled a small hole in the piller mount below the fp gauge to let me know if a leak develops. with the pyro and boost gauge there they are easy to see. it is pretty much a personal choice as to how you would like your truck to be set up. i also installed an ADII on mine, which was alot more than i need. i felt if i ever wanted to add alot of horsepower i would already be covered. the life time warranty was a major plus. with the plumbing supplied the mounting location is pre detirmined. the location suited me since i mainly drive on the highway, unlike Mike who does alot of off road. i do like Mikes location. it is well protected, that is why i am going to make a sheild for mine later. if i am not mistanken you can just buy the raptor and plumb it yourself. Vulcan performance could help you with what ever you needed. the raptor pump should be more than enough for your stock truck and alot of people use them successfully
  9. air dog, fass, raptor. they are all good pumps. it just depends on what your needs are and how much money you want to spend.
  10. i would have to agree with Mike and what he is telling you. Vulcan performance can fix you up with anything you need to plumb in a fp gauge. the polyon mike is talking about is probably the best thing out there to plumb from the needle valve to the gauge. if you dont want to spend money twice and you are going to install a computer for the rest of the gauges,by all means do it and save some money. eshaust brakes are a very good add on also. if your are towing alot or not, they are great.
  11. very well said ISX.from my viewpoint i like ot keep what i have because i have grown used to it and know it retty well. if it breaks i ususally know what needs to be done. my dodge is a little differant because i am still learning about it. but if it breaks i can figure out or use the resources here to help me figure it out. thru the years i have had many vehicles, usually purchased with 100k + for very little cash and mostly would get another 100k out them. they were simpler then but i got to know them and there idiosyncracies. with that, a little cash and care i have not spent alot of money on vehicles. i have had the dodge longer than any other vehicle i have had. i even got to put the first 110k on this one. so i will just keep learning about it and driving it. i might not hit that 1 million mile mark, but if i drive it for 15 or 20 years that would be just as big a deal as the million the cajflynn got out of his. the fuel system on mine will stay the same mainly because i know it and can fix any thing that breaks. i realy dont want to put something on it that i have to learn again. why swap one set of problems for another set. keep it as simple as you can. thats how i feel.
  12. yall gotta slow down, i aint found my muffler bearings yet.
  13. cant i buy a set of rv275's for about the price of a CR injector, maybe 2?
  14. i think i am just going to let my vp bask in its warmth for now. i need the cash for other things.
  15. i just got a good look at the fsm. i have had a hard time with the download but was finaly succesful. it is all very clear now. i just hope i have not over tighten them. i never have torqued them. just tightened them with a wrench and never had a problem until this last time. i will retighten them this weekend and see what happens.
  16. well i gues i will learn all of that when i change the injectors. just got to save up enough for a set of rv275's. i have replace everything from the tank to the vp seems like they are the next in line for me. i am sure i will have a few more question when that time arrives. what does the nut on the ends of the injector lines screw onto?
  17. the threads in your fingers is what the lines screw onto. would i be right in that assumption?
  18. i ususally loosen 1,3,and4 when i have to repime. easiest ones for me to get to. i will go back a check all of them to see what happens.
  19. it seems to me if you did try to over come heat soak with the fuel pump it would have to run quite a while considering how long the engine hold that heat. when i installed my big line kit i let the truck sit with the hood open for an hour before i messed with it. the fitting on the vp was still to hot to hold onto for very long. there is no telling how long you would have to keep fuel running thru it to overcome the temp of the block. i have good fuel pressure and run 2 cycle so i gues i will not sweat it. i drove my truck for 8 years without knowing any of this and never really worried about it. i hope to drive it another 8 years. if it takes another pump to do it, i think that would be a small price if the rest of the truck holds together reasonably. i dont need another payment and really love this truck.
  20. he replace his starter and still has the problem. that has to be a bad connection somewhere wouldnt you think?
  21. i got the pottable water part wrong by the way. you have to use lead free solder on potable water.
  22. when i got home this evening i smelled a slight wiff of diesel. looked up under the truck and saw some fuel on the underside of the intake. it appears that i have some fuel weeping out of the injector lines where the connect to the head.it seems to be runnig to the back of the intake and down. over the years i have had to crack them open on occasions. are there not some o rings or some other form of seal that might need to be replaced at these connnections?
  23. i had the same coversation with him when i bought my pump and was having ecm problems. i got to agree with you. with all the other computers scattered about, it seems you ought to be able to move that on as well. --- Update to the previous post... you have a goood pump and now i do too. i probably run thru 4 to 6 heat cycle a day and after installing my big line kit i was suprised at how hot the ip was after letting everything cool off for an hour before messing with it. if your engine runs for days it still has the fuel to cool it. i meant to get all that in below this. maybe the space between the block and the ecm helps. it does seem to me that running a chip of some sort would cause the electronics to run hotter because it its function is beyond what it was designed for. i really dont know squat about that kind of stuff.the only thing i know about lead free solder is you cannot use it on potable water systems due to people having to drink the water. that is more than i have ever said about any thing this technical since i have been a member here. the only reason i had the guts to say it is because of evrything i have learned here since joining up with you guys. Thanks to all of you for the confidence.
  24. at 60 degrees your grid heaters dont come on. i dont think they come on until below 50. we aregoing to need some more advice here.
  25. your pressures are good. your opinion of the dealer is good. i dont know much about the DDRP or the hard starting while hot other than what i have read here. instead of me leading you down the wrong road lets see what the other folks have to say. i have not had to deal with that problem.