syndicateshop

@Mopar1973Man rotate the pump towards the head. Additionally each tooth is if memory serves 5°. If you don't know already the timing mark on the case to pump should be visible, it looks like a chisel punch.

@Madmaxxjim the block physically doesn't have the hole? That would mean the block is an older block. If it just has a plug there then you may get lucky and have the tone wheel on the crank?

@JAG1 I do all my own, you don't need a press to do axle or u joints. Just a 3lb hammer and some patience.

Curious as to why? Serviceable joints seem to last longer, at least in my experience.

What are you going to spend the other $300 on? JK, That grease gun is worth it's weight in gold. Just 1 skid loader track replacement and it pays for itself. No more 1000 pumps to tension it up, set that sucker to 50 and squeeze the trigger and repeat till track is tight. I love my cordless Milwaukee half inch gun though. Just did a tire change today on a f250, didn't even bog down on dually lugs.

@dripley I have an engine driven compressor on my service truck and what the MG725 can't break loose the Milwaukee does. Get the 9amp battery though. I got my impact and a cordless grease gun for $450, man is that grease gun nice!

My Snapon MG 725 is tried and true, but the Milwaukee 1400/ftlb 1/2" cordless is getting used more and more

Twins or compound...... sorry, just a pet peeve.

@Me78569 did they just bump someone else's order?

A 4k box on a daily driver, I see you like to party too. It's a bit aggressive on the top level, I took my 4k off my service truck and put it on my toy. Much nicer to drive that way.

@dripley no problem, it's nice to do the teaching once in a while.

@dripley the schematics and Cummins call the sensor a crank sensor. In the01-02 harness the same pins are utilized as the crank sensor from the 98.5-00 ecm. There is no listing for a cam sensor in 01-02. In fact the truck I'm driving right now is a 98.5 with an 01 ecm/engine using a 98.5 harness. I had to make an extension cable to extend the crank sensor plug to reach the timing case. Also the cam gear now has provisions to bolt the tone wheel to it where 98.5-00 cam gears just have a notch.

Stick your finger in the cam position sensor hole, is there a tone wheel? That will tell you which iteration. All 24v have crank position sensors. Just depends where it is, 98.5-2000 are actually on the crank, 01-02 is in the timing case. Ask me how I know........

So the bosses personal Wrecker developed an issue. The drivers headlight came on after we changed seats in his 5500. We have to pull the cables to keep the truck from killing the batteries. The mechanic says BCM which is integrated into the cluster. I've dug a little online and found a few articles about the TIPM being the issue. Before they load the parts cannon, I'd love to do some of my own diagnostics. Any help would be appreciated.

@trreed that's not exactly true. You still need the 01/02 ECM. then you'll have issues with the AC and cruise, and possibly Speedo. I am trying to figure out if mine is just a dead sensor or an ecm/pcm issue. I HAVE an 01 engine in a 98.5 truck. And it's coming out as soon as I get new bearings in the original engine.

Definitely not worth the trouble. If you had everything already on hand it still sucks. Ask me how I know.

I'm going to go ahead and call bullshit. The VE and VP 44 both saw better mpg because of dynamic timing as opposed to the static timing of the ppump. My personal best was 28mpg higway with a VE 24v in a crew cab square body chevy. There is definitely am advantage over the PPUMP in reguards to mileage

@Mopar1973Man I sure did, I should update it though as now I have my welding service truck back together

@IBMobile I'm just north and east of Des Moines, If you are traveling along I80 and need anything between Omaha amd Illinois don't hesitate to hollar. And thanks again for the Vp44 ground fix write up!

@W-T that is the most beautiful engine bay I have ever seen!!!!!

You have me curious now, I have 3 or 4 24v cases, and only 1 is the later case. I must have gotten lucky and had the correct case if thats true.

I'm working on a replacement reluctor that uses an early crank reluctor tooth count to mimick the cps signal, you'll still need to pull the cam to change the tone wheel to a single blip wheel. I don't think the timing case is different. I'm almost positive that the case on my 98 is the 98 case on the 01 block.

Well it clearly states yhat the wire now goes from alt to passenger battery.

All of the issues that plauged OE VP44 have been fixed. I have personally seen a truck with 1.5mil on the odo with the original VP44. The truck was featured in a few diesel magazines and online media outlets. The health and longevity of the VP44 is directly related to the supply pressure of the lift pump. Again, the life expectancy is directly related to the fuel supply pressure. Since you keep beatimg reliabilty into the equation, plan on spending just as much on a VE as a BOSCH Reman VP44. You wouldn't drop a used pump into your truck, so you have to factor in a complete rebuild into the cost of the pump. In my experience that could be anywhere from $500-1200 on top of the purchase price. It took months of tinkering to reach 27mpg with the mechanical pump. And only then it was only good for interstate driving with a light load, anything more than about 3k worth of trailer the mpg dropped to that of a stock truck. Taking the timing cover off and settimg the pump gear to get my timing dialed in. In the end, the VP44 was still the better avenue.

Unless you already have the parts sitring in your shop, it's going to get expensive, I have $600 alone into my Delivery valves. Getting the timing set sucks, nobody wanted to help me figure it out when I did mine. If your current VP44 isn't failing I'd leave it alone. Get a fuel pressure gauge and keep an eye on supply pressure. If you still want to proceede, remember that unless you use custom injection lines, you'll need a non intercooled pump or your DVs will be about 5/8" short of the lines connecting to the DVs