kzimmer

Maybe @IBMobile didn't either?

I didn't even notice the deer the first time I saw this.

I'll keep an eye out for loctite 545, thank you.

Exactly. That's where the 37.3 volt measurement is coming from.

Yeah I was pretty thankful that I could stop the leak easily. This is off topic (sorry @Doubletrouble), but I'm having a really hard time getting my quadzilla threaded fuel pressure sensor to seal. I've been using yellow Teflon tape. Should I clean that stuff off and try that white liquid pipe dope?

I hear that... Going down to -24°C tonight. I discovered a small fuel leak on my fuel pressure sensor after work. Work on it in the cold, or turn off the needle valve? ... Needle valve.

Yeah... S**t's always going to flow down hill, and when corporations get taxed more, regardless of the reason, the working class has to suffer. The buck always gets past down to where it stops.

I think a lot of these jobber sensors may not have the correct gap between the sensor and tone wheel. Also explains why it changes with temperature, as things expand and contract. I experienced this with my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7L V8. Lost a crank sensor. Replaced the sensor with a jobber from a local auto parts chain. Would run for a few minutes until things heated up, and then it would die. I ended up replacing the PCM and wasted hours troubleshooting. Finally I went and bought a sensor from the dealer, which ended up being cheaper than the jobber, and the problem was solved. My point is if you replace a sensor, and your problem doesn't 100% go away, and nothing else makes sense, don't be afraid to try another sensor. Quality of manufacturing in every industry is suffering as costs are cut to appease shareholder dividends. Auto parts are definitely not immune to it. It's a worldwide disease. Sorry for the negative twist lol. Trust nothing!

Yes, it has a voltage regulator, and yes you are correct, it's built into the ECM or PCM. Same principles apply. The second gen trucks have them in the PCM too, and they can be damaged.

Fix your wiring properly before you run the truck again. Proper sized cables with proper crimps. Don't twist those high current carrying wires together. Your alternator and voltage regulator are going to be very unpredictable until you get the wiring sorted out. Only when the wiring is in good shape, can you test it out again, and check to see if the voltage output is proper, or if your voltage regulator is shot. My bet is that it's fine. To add: If your alternator charge lead is disconnected from the rest of the truck, IE batteries, fuse block, etc., your regulator can't see what the alternator is producing, all it sees is low battery voltage. So it cranks up the field voltage to compensate, trying to produce more armature voltage. Everything needs to be terminated properly to perform a proper test.

I agree it's too much motor for a stock trans and is likely worn out. However, if it's starting in second or third, it's gotta be valve body related. @Collinst15 I would take the pan off and run through everything you touched and double check everything.

When you say no first gear, is it slipping in first? Starting in second? Starting in third? Either way, here's a snip from another site, which either comes from the FSM or ATSG manual. NO LOW GEAR (MOVES IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR ONLY) 1. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 1. Test with DRB® scan tool and repair as required. 2. Valve Body Malfunction. 2. Remove, clean and inspect. Look for sticking 1-2 shift valve, 2-3 shift valve, governor plug or broken springs. 3. Front Servo Piston ed in Bore. 3. Inspect servo and repair as required. 4. Front Band Linkage Malfunction 4. Inspect linkage and look for bind in linkage.

You are 100% right, it shouldn't be zero. However, some trucks don't report an accurate engine load on the communication bus. Quadzilla for example, for this reason, I believe simply reports 0-100% fuel command as load. So that zero might not be accurate.

As long as your truck is flashed with the TSB for enabling high idle, and you turn off Quadzilla's high idle feature, then yes, you can.

Excellent information, thank you.

Yep, I understand now. Thank you.

Mine will take another bump to run the pump immediately after the pump shuts off. No need to turn the key off. Unless I misunderstood.

I don't think this is a normal condition (I know you said rare) unless something else isn't right. If you disconnect the vacuum lines when the CAD is engaged, shouldn't the CAD stay engaged? Doesn't the vacuum circuit have to reverse and apply in the opposite direction to disengage it? Have you replaced the vacuum switch on the transfer case?

That's really awesome of you to do that, kudos!

If memory serves, stock pulley is 60mm and the ford one is 58mm. That's only about a 3.33% decrease. I'd have to see the performance curve of the alternator (rpm vs amps) but if we make up some fuzzy math, you might get as high as 114 amps at idle vs 110 with stock pulley. I never load tested mine so I am very curious.

Good to see that a ford was finally good for something! Just kidding. I actually don't mind modern Fords. From like 79ish to 2015 ish I'm not a fan. I almost bought a brand new f-150 but I decided on the 2019 GMC 1500 with the 6.2L gas instead. F-ing love that truck.

Somewhere on this forum in the last couple of years, I remember seeing the identical issue in a post. I don't remember seeing the solution but keep searching and you should be able to find it.

Yeah I think it could be machined down a little.

You're reading a quote in @Me78569's signature. Not directed towards you.

Yeah I know. It was right borderline for me to decide whether or not I should do something about it. I decided not to. Let me know what you figure out.