nukethenazis
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Everything posted by nukethenazis
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My engine has also been notably quieter since I switched to T6.
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You'll need to get 4 12v or higher, 1 amp diodes and 1 12v, 125 ohm resistor, all of which can be had from The Source I believe. Solder them together like this: I pulled the bezel off and pulled the headlight switch right out because of my OCD, and if I can recall correctly (didn't tear my dash apart to check), I tapped the 'park lamp replay output' black w/ yellow tracer wire for the park light power source, as seen on the headlight switch connector here: You may be able to trace the wire down near the steering column area for easier access, but I thought it was pretty well buried, which I why I went up the dash to the headlight switch. Lastly, the right and left turn signal wires are very easy to get at, right on the steering column. They are the small, tan and light-green wires respectively, just be sure to check everything beforehand with a multimeter. The original idea was from a gentleman, can't remember his name or find the thread, on the CF who did this to his 3rd? gen ~ credit goes to him.
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True, but these trucks don't shut the turn signal right off when the park lamps are on, or at least my 99 doesn't. They simply fluctuate between dim and full power, so the mirror puddle lights will imitate this via the resistor. OP, you may even consider picking up a 150 ohm resistor as well, they're pretty cheap so just experiment with them and see which one gives a more distinguishable flash while not dimming the park lights down too much. I used a 100 ohm when I did mine and if I were to do it again I would definitely use higher resistance.
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You'll need to get 4 12v or higher, 1 amp diodes and 1 12v, 125 ohm resistor, all of which can be had from The Source I believe. Solder them together like this: I pulled the bezel off and pulled the headlight switch right out because of my OCD, and if I can recall correctly (didn't tear my dash apart to check), I tapped the 'park lamp replay output' black w/ yellow tracer wire for the park light power source, as seen on the headlight switch connector here: You may be able to trace the wire down near the steering column area for easier access, but I thought it was pretty well buried, which I why I went up the dash to the headlight switch. Lastly, the right and left turn signal wires are very easy to get at, right on the steering column. They are the small, tan and light-green wires respectively, just be sure to check everything beforehand with a multimeter. The original idea was from a gentleman, can't remember his name or find the thread, on the CF who did this to his 3rd? gen ~ credit goes to him.
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Have you done anything with the crankcase vent?
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Only other thing I can think of is maybe the swashplates in the pump(s) are actuating on and off a bit trying to regulate system pressure, but I'm not sure it would act like it does in the vid. Have you had any luck finding a repair manual or did it come with one?
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Does the surging stop when you actuate any of the controls a little?
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Yeah I'm not sure what else to tell you Tyler, just see if you can adjust the lash down in the block somewhere... Is this one of those engines cooled by the hydraulic fluid?
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If it has unit injectors, couldn't hurt to check the lash
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Valair can set you up just as nicely as well
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5w-40 and 0w-40 have the same high temperature (operating) viscosity as 15w-40, and running any of the aforementioned synthetics will, at the very least, be just as good as conventional oil. Where the synthetics excel is maintaining the proper cold viscosity at lower temperatures, eg. cold starts, as well as attaining a much higher oil degradation temperature, which you would find in your turbocharger after a hot shut down; the synthetic oil doesn't start to coke until almost 100 F higher than dino oil iirc. Unless you've dealt with the PCV and care that much about a little weeping from a seal or two, the only thing synthetic is going to hurt is your wallet...
