elshadow001

My tattoos are nothing to be proud of. I live in the barios! Enough said --- Update to the previous post... for the most part! tattoos are simply showing off someone elses work not your idea. Mine was self inflicted. My screwup!

I recently replaced my vp44, removed the timing cover when I did it I inspected the dowel in question on my 2002 model I even used a center punch to check for any problems and found none on mine so I left it alone.

In our shop we always used the smoke test.Heat until the oil smokes on the part, don't go any hotter.Unless you want metal that you pull the temper out of it

He is 120% correct, it is a constant drain on the batteries when they leak across from pole to pole or pole to ground.It's like a tire with a small leak, it will run out eventually if you don't stop itKeepem Clean. Again just baking soda, water and a small brush to clean it up, and next time it's much easier.

I still say clean them up with baking soda and water first.Ok vise grips, hack saw, channel locks, dremel tool, whatever it takesYou will be buying new bolts and nuts to put on the terminals.Get rid of the acid, clean the area up. Rinse it down with water, dry it up. Protection is your choice. Baking soda is the cheapest way to keep the acid neutralized.Acid is what destroys.Now here is a test for everyone! Take your multimeter and put one probe on one pole, put the other prove on the plastic top and see how much voltage is seeping across in the acid on top of your battery.Voltage, and current flow where there is acid, and there is where the damage comes from.Clean batteries no voltage, and no current flow to do damage.Don't they call that elctro plating process? Yup it move the metal around .Oh yeah don't forget to clean the inside of the lead terminals!

mix baking soda with water let it soak and clean them first.Go buy some new bolts at the part store. Remove old ones with channel lock type pliars.Make sure you don't break the poles on the batteries. Hold both side of the bolt as you loosen them.Keep them clean in the future with baking soda mixed with water.add about a 1/4 cup of soda to half quart of water should be plenty

Here is a link I found that might have use to someone. If you are into electronic you probably know this by heart. If not well I hope it might help someone understand resistor color codes. http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html

If you use epoxy, make sure you get the metal roughend up so the epoxy can get into the pores and bond. Roughend as in like using 320 grit paper.Use a good cleaner like brake clean or some acetone to clean the surface. I would rather use acetone that is what we used when i did that type of work for Douglas Aircraft Company.Cyclohexane is the best but most don't have it. If you do use Cyclohexane Keep it off your body it is a cycle solvent and it is addictave like a drug. I saw a guy at work that was super addicted to it.It being a cycle solvent goes right thru the pores of the skin, but is a hell of a cleaner. Effects on Humans: Cyclohexane is an irritant of the eyes and mucous membranes in humans. By analogy with the effects in animals, exposure to high concentrations is expected to cause narcosis. Exposure to 300 ppm caused irritation to the eyes and mucous membranes in workers [Hathaway et al. 1991]. Exposure to higher concentrations is likely to cause dizziness, nausea, and other narcotic effects. On repeated contact, cyclohexane is a defatting agent. Cyclohexane has not been shown to cause the hematologic changes associated with exposure to benzene

I think I would be looking for a used one in a junk yard, I don't have much faith in any epoxy product.

Just before I changed mine, I was towing a trailer from California to Here in Oklahoma.My CEL had been coming on and off, and I didn't know anything about two cycle oil. Strangley enough I filled up just before I left to calif with some off colored fuel for the trip.It rand good becuase the fuel had lubrication in it. HMMMMM.Light came on in calif and off and on during the trip home. I was scared to death that it would stop in the middle of the desert when it was 122 degrees out there.Hah! I blew out 4 tires! on my trailer.Anyway coming back it made it until I was 2 miles from my home, turned the corner, and the engine just went down to nothing.I let up on the throttle expecting it to stop right there, and the engine picked up again, and we made it to the home ponderosa.Well I unhooked the trailer, and pulled the truck in front of my shop, and opened the wallet.No codes now! new vp44 and new lift pump.I did dissasemble the lift pump and examine it, there was some wear on the end of the shaft everything else looked good but it ended up in the trash.I won't take a chance on a used item like that.I wish you well on getting yours solved.

I now have to go to the doctor because I have a bad case of DASH ENVY

So does that mean the avatar with the flashing lights doesn't reallly look that good?????????

Well I found the cover at this place http://www.autoanything.com/ They have several styles, and this is called the suede leather look. It comes with stickem velcro. Not enough of it, So I called the people that make it in Tempe Arizona. Hey no chinese crap. They said no problem, velcro would be sent at no charge to me. I want more velcro to stretch it out tighter, and form better in the dip area. Have on ordered for my kia sedona. The things are made with cad equiptment and sewed there at the plant. 5 year guarentee ok hope i live that long.

I used to work on worhtington 5clh model engines. the pistons were 12 inch bore and each one weighed 500 pounds.The turbo weighed in at 1500 pounds. Maximum pressure was 6 psi on the manifold.Flywheel weighed 5 tons. Red line was 750 rpms and then it shut down for safety.Hows that for a turbo

Well no it doesn't restrict the air bag. Guess your next alternative is go to genos gargage and spend $325 they say theres is life time guarentee.I might get one next year if I feel like tearing out the whole dash. I dread the thought of that.

Well I guess this thread was a waste of time. No one responded.Any how I got my cheapie dash cover in today and I am waiting for some extra velcro to finish up the job. The people that made it are sending more at no charge.Ok it's not perfect but it should help save the rest of the dash from breaking up I hope!

Can you say two cycle oil!Can you say Ow! there goes about $1,200 out of my wallet.To bad you didn't find this forum a few years earlier! I just went through your situation. I feel for you.I will say this! After! you install your rebuilt pump you will be much wiser. You will be running two cycle oil with your fuel.Walmart -- Good stuff. You will probably want to send a letter to the EPA with a picture of your middle finger sticking up, but it won't help.Your truck will be running so much quiter, and smoother in the future you will be scared to drive it for a while thinking something is wrong when in fact everything will be right.I don't know where to tell you to get your rebuilt vp44 ( and lift pump ) but I got mine through a place called thedieselstore.com. I have zero complaints.As far as lift pumps I have no recomendation on them I am still using a stock replacment on mine because I'm only driving my truck around town now and won't ever be pulling anything in the future.I got a fuel pressure gauge, and now I look at it all the time now just because the people here on this forum have educated me on the pitfalls of the new ULSD fuel, and all the other things wrong with our time period truck, and it's faults.Anyway I wish you all the best on the repair of your problems. Oh yeah if you don't have a way to clear your check engine light, get one to keep on hand. I got mine from Harbour Freight when it was on sale.It works just fine for me to clear mine. Like they say Time heals all wounds including dead pedal.Lots of reading on this forum, and lots to learn. I have learned more from this forum then any place else in my whole lifes experieince with diesel stuff.

Well now I was taught that the more flow from the working engine under load is the factor.I have always assumed that the more fuel burning creates more exhaust flow and that spins the turbo up harder.I worked on big stationary engines for 20 years, and all of them only produce turbo pressure when the engine is under load working. None of them had any back pressure.You need exhaust flow that is my opinion. No Flow of gasses no turbo spin up.

Mine was at the high pressure cutoff switch near the bottom of the truck, and another at the compressor seal.Good luck they can be anywhere.

Hey just spend the $59 and buy this one http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm It says it clears codes or do like i did Harbour freight for like $62 works good on my 02 model

Well I'm sure we have all heard the saying -- Are you trying to blow smoke up my A**.So Where did the saying come from? click on the picture here and find out!

Got mine from atwoods for around $75 each, and now they are a matched set so they will both feed equal, and charge equal.

Sorry I didn't see it.

Well here is something to share!someone can put it in the download I am not allowed. ohms law.zip

For my truck my batteries were in the truck since 2002. That is eight years, they still worked good but I bought new ones this summer just to feel safer. More cranks the quiker they go. End of story. My truck was lucky to get started once a month. and they did well. Carbon Pile Load is the only real way to test. http://www.harborfreight.com/500-amp-carbon-pile-load-tester-91129.html Harbour freight to the rescue!