Carbur8tr

Injector hold down? 89in/lbs. I believe is what you're looking for.

Well figure I will share as well. Just got these today which is right at the 4 week mark. Bodies seem a bit used but that's expected. No documentation nor marking on the package.

Does anyone out there have any information at all regarding H-Pumps on a 24v? Fit, cc, build specs etc. There was a guy over on CF who got a hold of one a while back but the project never went anywhere. I really haven't seen or heard much about them so just curious if anyone has any information on them.

I can't complain, we are in the 20s right now so not much is going on outside.

@Me78569 When will you be installing your new set?

What did you end up going with again?

Definitely and I agree that this time of year is quite busy. Like I said earlier, that wasn't meant to soil his name nor his product.

Well a little update, I've asked Chris for a tracking number now on multiple occasions and I have yet to get a solid update or tracking number. Today will be 3 weeks since I placed the order. Not trying to soil his name but just wanted to share my experience thus far. The first set of injectors I bought from him came within a few days and have been running fine since I put them in. I don't doubt the quality of his products but I have a feeling his business might be a little behind the ball right now.

Did you put the pump on or did you have someone do it for you? Any idea who's pump it is? What's your fuel pressure? Napa, Orielly's, Autozone, RockAuto, Genos, they should all have one just make sure it's for the right one. I believe the 98-00 is different from 01-02.

Have you been able to replace the map sensor yet? That's probably the easiest one to address and will give you a feel for what all could potentially be wrong. Since you didn't have any issues prior, try completely removing the quad from the truck and pull the battery cables for a couple of hours to let the truck more or less reset. Once you've done that it would not hurt to do an APPS reset as well. If you've done all that and you're still having trouble then I would start with the map sensor and see if that at least clears up some of your issues. It's not going to be a smoking gun but a bad map sensor can cause some odd issues. Like others have said, seems like you might just have a tired truck that needs some TLC.

You have a warning somewhere in the menu below (hence the yellow). What's your fuel pressure at?

That's been about my experience as well. Either way, If the motor is at or around the 50-60 degree mark he should not be having the starting problems he's having right now. I think there's something else going on here. @kzimmer I hate to ask but are you sure the block heater is working like it should? I've seen broken elements before so I wouldn't rule out the heater yet.

@Me78569 anyway we could test this by writing something that would force some additional canbus or timing at startup? im not convinced it’s the injectors either. @kzimmer so if you put a hand on the motor is it warm to the touch or still cold? Again I don’t be yave much cold weather experiences but seemed like with the truck plugged it would always get fairly warm to the touch. I’m thinking you might have a problem somewhere else. Have you checked for codes again?

@AH64ID So are those values the true starting values or in addition to a base timing value?

I debated keeping them on the truck but for my location there's really no point. They might have been used 2 or 3 days out of the year. That's an exaggeration, but being without them I can tell you that I've noticed no difference. We got down to 25 one morning and to my surprise she fired right up. I would be curious to find the point at which I'm dead in the water but at the same time wouldn't care to waste the time and resources after hearing what @kzimmer has had to deal with.

Debating taking my truck on a road trip just north of @Me78569 here soon so trying to gauge whether or not I should take an extension cord with me. I no longer have a grid heater so I'm almost thinking it's a must at this point but good to hear from those of you who don't have much trouble down at those temperatures.

So since I am cold illiterate, how many of you plug your truck in and does this help when the temps are below whatever temp you generally have problems at?

Yall can have all that cold weather and white stuff. I'll stay down here where it's warm lol

Lol well at least yall have your injectors. Still waiting on mine and no word back from Chris over at DFI.

@dieselautopower When did you start bumping the pop on the injectors and what made you move to those numbers. Below are some pictures from a previous set of SAC 7x.012s I bought from yall about 3 years ago. Pictures are before install and after running them for at least 50k, obviously cleaned up. To my knowledge they are still running in a truck somewhere today. Compared to an 8 hole 150hp injector (also DAP)

Face value, I would say that due to a little better atomization and dropping to something that the pump can better handle might have helped you out overall. In cases like this it's hard to justify a reason due to the lack of data we have to support our current theories. Either way it loops back to what we are playing with right now and that is where is the line for too much? Btw, I'm not hinting that you're .013s are over sized for your truck. I would be curious to see how a set of .012s would perform compared to where you're at right now.

Hence why I said there will be some obvious exceptions. Point stands.

More or less. I'll give you an example, I ran a set of DAP's injectors a while back (7x.012 SAC @ 305Bar) and If I stayed in it in 5th and 6th you would have to be careful when you let off because the pump would not be able to keep the truck running. From my understanding if you get to this point you have drained all the fuel out of the rotor and it does not have enough time to fill back up before the next 3 cylinders need fuel. Bumping the throttle a little when the RPMs come down seems to help and my theory here is that you're asking the pumping to hold the solenoid closed longer so it has just a little bit more time to fill prior to trying to fire the cylinder. Either way, one could argue that there is a line somewhere in that area (7x.012 or 6x.013 and above) with some obvious exceptions. To add to that argument, I've seen close to 700 out of both 7x.012s and 6x.013s. I've also seen similar results from larger injectors as well so in my opinion there is a blurry line of best atomization for most hp. We all know that the SO VP will support close to 700 if everything comes together, HO less obviously. Regardless, my thought is that if you know that a 7x.014 makes close to the same peak hp as a 7x.012 then what are you trading off to get to that number? The power band might be a little better in the mid range but beyond that for a daily driver I just can't see the point in going larger than 7x.012. @kzimmer did you notice a difference in the power band between the two injectors? Any difference in smoke? Any pros or cons with either?

Just a side note on this topic, I think Nick mentioned earlier that 7x.013s are plenty to max out the VP and I would agree with this statement. Where some might disagree with is "when" this occurs.

I would be interested if it's for the right price and within the next couple of weeks. Problem I have with a lot of this is that I work too much so finding the time to work/play with the truck is limited. How much do you think he would charge? Do you know what kind of dyno it is?