SWATPARAMEDIC

Yeah I really liked how they look. I've never run them before and not sure about the tread life but I'll have a good idea as time goes. Thanks for your thoughts as well.

I ordered them this afternoon and looking at about a week and a half or so to get them and get them put on.

Well I'm needing new tires here pretty quick. I think I'm going to get some this week and I'll post an update of how they work out.

I came across Treadwright Tires yesterday and was wondering if anyone else is using them and what they think of them or if anyone has used retread tires before and what they think. The prices are fantastic and looking at the Wardens and Guard Dogs. Couldn't find any bad reviews on them when I looked them up.

Check your battery connections. I had the exact same thing and several codes thrown. It happened after I replaced a battery and one of the ground connections came loose and after 3-4 panic attacks I found it and reconnected it the no bus and ccd went away and it started right up.

I'm having the same issue with my '01. Let me know how you flush it and how it works out.

I'll check it when after I get home and see what they're like, I didn't pay that close of attention to it this afternoon when I checked it. Thanks for your help.

Ok, I'll try and flush it out with garden hose and see if that works. For what it's worth, I was outside with it earlier and it was 80 today and got it up to normal running temperature it got up to about 118 and both heater hoses were hot.

My heater is warm at best when the truck is at normal operating temperature, using a temperature sensor on my multimeter it's only about 100 degrees. Just had a new headgasket put on at a local diesel shop and the head machined and tested with no leaks or cracks in the head. Put a new waterpump and Cummins thermostat in it, not sure if it was a 180 or 190 but it runs right at 190 according to the dash gauge. What should be the normal temperature of the air coming out of the heater? And any ideas what to check?2001 3/4 5.9 L Standard output, rebuilt engine stock.

Not sure if this helps or if you'd tried it or not but there is another fuse box with some relays behind the driver side battery. There is a 130 alternator fuse and some others. Might check in there for anything blown. I shorted across the alternator post trying to tighten something up and replaced the alternator because it tested bad before I realized that fuse was there and had blown.

Check all your battery connections. In particular look for any bad or loose ground wires and make sure everything is tight.

There is a large resistor for the blower motor. Mine had a similar issue where the blower motor only worked on one or two speeds and thought it was the motor and that didn't fix it. That resistor was bad and it worked when I replaced it. I don't remember where it's located. I'm thinking on the motor itself. Might try taking out and looking or checking a schematic or wiring diagram. I think asked the dealer where it was.

All the WalMart 2 cycle engine oil I've seen has TCW3, will that have any negative effect on running it in the fuel?

The same thing happened to me after I replaces a battery and it wouldn't start, just cranked and had no fuel. A ground wire off of the negative terminal came loose out of the terminal on the passenger side. I'd bet money it's the same thing on yours when you mentioned replacing the batteries. Check all your ground wires on both batteries and make sure everything is good and tight and all the connections are tight and clean. If you find a loose wirer and get it all tightened up you'll know immediately if that was the problem becuase the CCD inthe display will disappear. Try that first before you worry about the ECM.

The ambulances typically have a significant higher and constant draw than typical tucks. In addition to the emergency lighting, there battery chargers for portable equipment, interior lighting, and power inverter. And if one alternator goes out the second will at least last long enough to get us to where we're going and dead in the water. Most typical trucks even with off-road lights and a winch don't have as much of a load.

All of our Ford ambulances have come from the factory with dual 100 amp alternators but the second one has a second serpantine belt for just the second alternator. We have one Dodge unit and I'm not sure what it has on it.

I'm pretty particular where I get my fuel more for general quality of it, ie water amounts and quality of the storage tanks. In the Tulsa area, I use QuikTrip, Murphy, or the truck stops. Out of town I almost exclusively use truck stops because they tend to go through large quantities and will be fresher (just my opinion.) Shell stations in the Tulsa area are dives and Phillips stations are .15/gallon or more higher. At work we fill up just wherever and get it from places I wouldn't even think about putting in my own truck. They are all Fords and they are all the time replacing injectors and and having constant fuel related problems.

I just rebuilt my engine and used a pretty good amount of penetrating oil bolts and bought a set of curved wrenches for getting the back bolts for getting the turbo off the manifold and mad it actually pretty easy.

Ok, Thanks. I'll look for that and try it this week. I've got more places of oil in the few weeks it's been running than the whole time I've had it before it died.

Ok, Thanks for the advice I wasn't sure where to start from. I get off in the morning and I'll find something to hook up to it and then see about a vent.

After I rebuilt my engine I lost the puke bottle and just left it off. I have what appears to be several little oil leaks under the engine and front axle and differential is wet also. Can the hose coming out of the crankcase be dripping enough that it blows everywhere and causes several leaks or could I have several leaks? Everything looks dry along the valve cover, head, and block.

Have you looked in the Dallas area?

I had to take mine to the machine shop anyway and they hot tanked it and didn't charge me since they were doing some work. It took all of the old paint and rust off of it. I didn't sand or treat it with anything else. I repainted it with regular spray engine enamel paint and after it was all back together and inside couldn't tell it was a spray paint job.

I have a set of things, I'm not sure what the name of them are. I went to the part store and described what I was doing and what I thought I needed to do it and they point out a set different size tools for that.

I didn't have to pull the oil pan to get mine out. I did pull the bumper though because it made things so much easier to get into to get things off of it and to get it out and getting it back in. And my AC had a pesky leak and it was easy pulling the condenser loose.