Blueox01

No ABS light still on, Plug to Cruise servo

Never mind Cruise is working, not sure what fixed it, put some dielectric grease on plug, works now.

Well , I replaced rear ABS/Speed sensor ABS light still on and cruise doesn't work. Not worried about the ABS just getting cruise to work, according to the 2001 manual diesel " Diesel With Manual Trans The speed control system is fully electronically controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). A cable and a vacuum controlled servo are not used if the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission and a diesel engine. This is a servo less system.The controls consist of two steering wheel mounted switches. The switches are labeled: ON/OFF, RES/ACCEL, SET, COAST, and CANCEL.The system is designed to operate at speeds above 30 mph (50 km/h)." But this is not true on my truck, Mine DOES have a vacuum controlled servo, My model year is a 2001 and came with a 6 speed. Sure wish I was smart enough to figure this out, supposed to leave tomorrow for CA. I do have vacuum to the servo and my cruise light comes on just won't SET/RESUME or ACCEL

'splian that again.

Well, my cruise won't set and ABS/brake lights are on. But speedo ins't haywire.

Thinking the rear ABS speed sensor is also used for setting cruise, can't see it connected in wiring diagrams, must be in PCM, am I correct in thinking these are related problems?

Sorry , but I got to ask, after all the FINE work you did, why didn't you paint the head,exhaust manifold etc?

Well I can only hope, I havn't driven this yet, but I did put on new hubs, maybe once driven light will go out.

Thx, gonna re-check that, again.

Will check that, again THX!

I'm sure I've bled the system and have checked ABS sensor connections, kinda at a loss at this point.

I tip my hat again to you! Twice!

You did this under that canopy? My hat off to you!

I admit when I've made a mistake, as with the tap for the head bolt. No one's 100% right all the time How many engines have YOU rebuilt? or is your technique from "big twin diesel" ?

That's certainly not the case you presented before! As I stated as you torque from the center out (you need to re-check) the torque PRIOR to the 90* turns, YOU SAID THAT WAS WRONG, YOU said to back off and re-torque, Now you disparage as it's OK for stock engines, I think he has some mods, but not pushing 600hp, SO where does your regime come into play? After a injector upgrade, ECM programing, Quadzilla,at what point does it change?

Imagine that! So the gasket compressed as you did step 1&2 and you "re-checked torque" to make sure it was right PRIOR to the final 90* torque. But you had more movement on re-check at the center and less going out, right? Not sure who your asking this of, I have 400k + on my block Truck has 857K

If you release torque how do you know you haven't released the compression of the sealing gasket, why would you do that? Why do you torque "center out" Why is there any sequence? Why can't you torque at 77 ft lbs any way you want, then back off and "re-torque" ? Because if you torque from center out the bolts after setting might not be at 77ft lbs , hence "RE-CHECK!

857K on Truck, 450k on first 53 block, 400k on 2nd block maybe I need to understand what I've done wrong. You might explain it to me. I did by my own admission did not replace the injectors that caused a burn hole in #6 cyl, Never had a head gasket leak. Engine not really a hot rod but with the RV275,ECM programed, and Edge EZ I think I'm above 350HP, I know I've got enough power to trash 3 NV5600 trans pulling weight, NEVER have I had a leak from any thing I sealed. I'm now on my 3rd VP44 only because the 2nd one sat for 8yrs and was gummed up.

"Aluminum wheels are a funny example because they always break in a little" kinda like a gasket being compressed?

Still can't understand your logic, You torque aluminum wheels then 50 miles later loosen and re-torque, or do you go back over the lugs at the same torque?

Guess I've done the way I described and the only leak my head gasket had was from the factory, not from any of my replacements. Last head gasket went 400K before a bad injector burned a hole in #6 sleeve, That WAS my fault, by bad maintenance. This is what ATS say's about studs, not sure this extends to OEM bolts, different set up. https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505/Dodge 24V & CR Head Studs-INST V1.3.pdf

Thanks you made my point.

Re-check vs Re-torque You can only "re-torque" if bolts are backed off,if you back of more than 59ft lbs you go through procedure again AFTER you've compressed the gasket? Asking for a gasket leak!

Step 3 recheck, not re-torque, is the way I read it. I don't have any knowledge of putting on 6.7 rocker assy. my engine is together the way I'm happy with.

Gonna have to agree to disagree, while rechecking I know I would get the bolt to torque a little bit even though the wrench was still set at the 77 ft lbs, just because as you torque from center of head outward your compressing gasket. If that's not the case, why go through 4 steps? Torque once to yield and be done. Not that I read, you torque in sequence to pull head down evenly 59, 77 recheck (not re-torque) then 90* all in sequence for the 26 bolts.