Blueox01

If your going to do it yourself you'll lose all the freon,I don't think you can get bearings just a complete compressor should replace the drier while your at it total for parts and freon about $300.you'll need to also buy a set of A/C disconnect tools(plastic rings to unlock the springs in hose fitting at the drier).

Yea already read it all,just was'nt sure on those 2 pins but got it right,just wanted confirmation

I bought a sensor like Timbo sells and wanted to make sure i wired it right,the diagram for the sensor i bought has a IVS Idle Active and then IVS Throttle Active. But your saying NOT to ADJUST the voltage like he shows on his web site?

Thanks alot,were do you get all these diagrams? That's how i wired it but just wanted confirmation.

Guess i'm at a loss of how to help you, you've been given a couple options, the one 4 finger puller shown above will work fine and you can borrow it from a parts store.

What they called your Glow Plug codes could be one of your intake air heater relays,codes P0380-P0382 By the way how many mile on your truck, mine 767K

The APPS sensor has 2 Idle validation switch pins, pins #2 & #6 anybody know which is Idle ON and Idle OFF(or Throttle ON)

Most Auto parts stores (autozone,advance,O'reilly) will loan you the a puller,as far as i remember it's not anything special just a 4 finger gear puller.

There were some cases for sale on E-Bay or call your local FREIGHTLINER DEALER or CUMMINS DEALER NEVER BUY ANYTHING FOR YOUR ENGINE FROM DODGE(unless they supply a 5lb jar of vaseline with your purchase) most times i can purchase from Freightliner for less than directly from Cummins(has to do with wholesale price from Cummins to Freightliner VS Cummins retail to customer).Have your engine # handy,upper left side of the case you need.

Damn that would get expensive,when i fuel i take on 100-125 gal. At 1 point i was adding a quart of vegatable oil per 100 gals. Didn't seems to hurt anything.

what ratio of 2 cycle oil you use?

Sounds like your A/C clutch/bearings are going out,as for the water your drain for the evaporator is plugged,there should be a drain hole on the pass side outside firewall,run a wire or blow some air in to unplug it.

I replaced one at about 300k so far the other is still OK with 766k on it. Go to Partsgeek.com found them there 223.00 or you can go to Timken.com find a local dist/sales office, part #HA590000.

You try E-bay yet?

NV5600 a lot heavier trans,parts are readily available through several outlets,Blumenthals in OKC,Inland Truck parts as well as others( i never buy from Dodge). But maybe you never tow any real weight.FYI New Venture went belly up they don't produce the the NV4500 anymore, in fact the NV5600 replaced the NV4500

Have you followed your diagram down to the accuator on the transfer case? if so attach a vacuum hose and draw on it like a straw,if you have resistance on both ports diafram is ok.

I take it you checked the rear u-joint, FYI the friction modifier i only if you have a limited slip diff(adding to a regular diff would'nt hurt) and if you going to swap to a manual at least go with the NV5600.

I'm thinking it's similar to the water pump gasket, a round flat rubber seal that fits into a recessed area in the block. Easy way,call your cummins or frieghtliner dealer(have your engine# ready,located on the side of the front cover)looking for the gasket.

Are you getting your fuel press reading before or after the filter? Nice video,will it maintain that steady pressure pulling 54'-66' of trailers wieghing 10-14k down the interstate w/15-20 mph crosswind at 75 mph? I want to upgrade my fuel pump but need to be practical in what i spend,i use my truck for a living,regular maintinance is costly don't have unlimited funds for a "Toy Truck". Always used OEM pump,i did have the inj. pump go out at 425k,replaced w/remain from Diesel Specilties(that was 340k ago). Since i bought this truck i've replaced a engine block(cracked along the water jacket ,at 453k) cummins said that some block castings were thin there(the new block was beefed up consederably were my original cracked),3 count them 3 NV5600 trans,(finally replaced w/Fuller 8406 14" clutch) 4 or 5 APPS assemblies,going w/the TIMBO FIX just not purchasing from him.(just to name a few major items. Routine maintinance oil changes every 3-4 weeks,new rear tires every 7-8 mo's. So you can understand that hard for me to fund High Dollor Performance parts just for "Fun". I did some looking probly go w/the raptor 150 seems resonably priced w/ the flow/press that would fit my needs.

All of my gauges are direct readings nothing electric,where are you reading the fuel pressure before or after filte? When pulling 10k or better i'm pushing 20-22 psi w/7 psi fuel at 75 mph. a guy at diesel specialties here in omaha said as long as 7 psi is going to the injec pump i would be fine,but always looking for as much info as possible.

Yes, i have the stock LP and a fuel press gauge.

Any opinions on have much boost i can safely run with a stock fuel system?

Thanks for all the info,just hate having to let a shop work on my truck if it's something i can do myself.

I think a scanner would be pricey,i call around once to have a brake shop scan it i think they wanted $60-75 to do it,i was just wondering if it was something i could do myself. 2001 3500 QC 2WD mostly stock 245 HP Hypertech Programmed ,115 Gal aux Fuel tank,B&W Companion Hitch,Fuller FSO 8406 6 speed w/14" pull type clutch,763K miles

I have a 2001 3500 w/independent front suspension,is there any way to test the front ABS sensor w/a voltmeter/ohm meter?