Blueox01

I wanted to post a video of the crankshaft being turned by hand after torqued but file size was to large, so this is with all 6 pistons in.(wish I could trim other video) but not sure how to do it.

20180414_103045.mp4 20180414_103045.mp4

Ever call your local Freightliner dealer with engine # Don't say it's in a Dodge truck, sometimes cheaper than Cummins, definitely cheaper than Dodge.

Interesting. Question, the only reason your cutting the ground splice in this W-T mod is for the wire, correct? My Batt Cables were shot so I bought Marine cables and put new lugs on all the wires, really no need for me to cut that gray connector off at the splice and reuse, just run Neg cable from Batt to the back of the Timing cover, that was done just for convenience? Wonder if something like this would work to install a breaker in the charge wire.

In the process of doing that now, wish I would have seen that article before I unwrapped all my harnesses and re-wrapped them to make them look pretty. When you say AC noise, am I understanding that too mean Alternating Current noise? Also I would like to figure out how to fuse it, I had a regulator go out and overcharged both batteries, spew acid on both front fenders, like that not to happen again.

You don't have to do that, those are just what look like the Reman facility did with inexpensive dot-dot engraver with a dot-dot circle around it as well as a rebuild serial # very faint, maybe I need to scrape of the three coats of paint I sprayed on it. When my pump failed it was the electronics, I would get a dead spot almost like the exhaust was plugged, then it would run fine for 500 miles or so and do it again.

But the Revision # would have been hand engraved correct?

How many Revision has this pump had? When I say H.O I'm speaking to the 245HP/6 Speed engine vs the 235HP Auto's/5 Speed engines. I would have replaced the Original VP After my 53 block cracked if my memory is correct, witch was before I swapped in the 8406 trans,I wish I could find my Maintenance papers, I used to log everything. But I'm thinking the Reman ( From a Bosch Auth reman) locally would have been around 2007- 2008, So I'm just trying to understand what I have.

Ya, I was going to do that, because I have a question whether it's a 17X vs 15x pump also, not sure of the difference between them for sure 1 for H.O & 1 for S.O.? Last 2 digits serial # is 28 So that means it's a 17x? and then it's hand engraved with 026 best I can tell

My Reman is 12-13 yrs old, Truck has been Idle since 2010.

Tested the check valve, need one of them too. What's a Revision 027 pump?

Now I wish I would have bought a 30 psi gauge instead of the 15psi I did.

I copied this from Diesel Addict " There is a diaphragm located inside the VP44 injection pump that is very sensitive. This VP44 diaphragm works best under pressures between 10 and 15 PSI. Some pumps will be able to run higher than that but Thoroughbred Diesel does not recommend it. After changing your VP44, if you notice continued hard starting or feel as though the pump is getting bogged down, it is probably time to check the lift pump pressure. Our recommendation for optimum fuel pressure is 12 PSI of the VP 44". Reason I ask is because I replaced my manual FP gauge with an electric Auto Meter that has a warning light for to low/high fuel pressure. Plus I've read you should not have than 15psi max pressure, I have Raptor 150 that I can adjust FP.

Ok, I have 5v between OR wire power & BK/LB wire Sensor ground, I also get 4.6v between Power OR wire & Sensor GY/BK wire, that right? Looking at Wiring diagram 8W-30-33 2001 Manual Well I've got an aftermarket sensor, I'll go to Freightliner or Cummins tommorow and see what they get for one.

I'm must be checking it wrong, I'm going between Batt Gr on both tests

Okay, I rechecked the connector I have 5v with key on/ too OR wire and .044 ohms at BK/LB wire, nothing at sensor wire. With key Off I have continuity to Gr with the BK/LB, nothing on other two wires, I did ohms test sensor it has 1.16 omhs between terminals BK/LB and sensor wire terminal

That's cool beans!

I checked the leads to the sensor, I have 5v at the orange wire and continuity to ground at the bk/lb blue wire, so I believe that's right, anyway to test the sensor before I spend the $$$ on a new one? Switch update?

Okay getting close to wanting to throw fuel in my tank and see if my engine even runs, but I want to make I didn't miss (or screw up) anything. So It's been 8 yrs since it's run some my memory it a little foggy, anyway when I turn key to on Oil pressure gauge goes up to 40psi, Tap starter it goes back down, this correct? Obviously I don't know what it will when actually started, Sure I'll have oil pressure just don't want to backtrack any on any wiring.

I kinda miss those days, some of this knew tech boggles my mind, maybe I should try and spend more time learning it.

Cool beans, So you remember when engines were measured in Cu.In and all the fasteners were SAE, What was in your 73' Charger 383, 440?

Like I said Only once chasing a big truck on a 2 lane highway where there was only us two, and he was pulling away from me steadily! I like cruise at just under speed limit like 72 some I don't catch up to slow moving truck to fast and those that run a little faster than the limit don't come up on me to fast. Does you Oil gauge move to like 40psi when you turn you key too on?

MPH

Ya, I just seen you have 4:10's, don't know what Your will run out too, I ONLY did this once pulling a small trailer following a big truck across US 40 in CO but my truck ran out just over triple digits.

Ya, you already bought one spare truck anyway.