Blueox01

Well I can only go by my experience with my truck, but I would concede that the "book" says to to replace head bolts whenever pulling the head, but I only have 857K (453K on first block, "53" block cracked tried to repair so head was of 3 times) on my engine and just this time put new Cummins head bolts (never a leak, or blown gasket), as well as the main cap bolts this rebuild, only because I felt the bolt stretch, My point was you should be able too feel it stretch when torquing if you pay attention. Not by any means a High HP engine re builder, just pay attention to details, like chasing all bolt holes, to make sure torque is true

If you want genuine Cummins parts cheaper than at a Cummins dealer or Mopar check your local freightliner dealer, just don't go in asking for a dodge part, need engine # on front of front case, always works for me.

I want to correct my post these bolts were not head bolts but main cap bolts, was just to show bolt stretch, the point was you will feel a bolt stretching.

Wow that's not encouraging, I think my whole kit was mahle. But only needed 1 wrist pin bushing for #6 rod, that I did get from Cummins.

Not too start a big disagreement , $ 425+ Vs $125 Studs Vs Bolts depends on what you want out of your engine, 500+ HP or reliable 300+ Hp truck, goes along the line of putting big wheels on a truck for show or a truck setup too pull. some people have unlimited funds for toy's, but sometimes practical is more sense, First "53 block lasted 450K, tried to have it welded(bad choice) New block from Cummins never had a head gasket blow or leak on either engine using same head bolts. But then again I don't have a 500 HP engine. But I know I tore up 3 NV5600's even though I did everything I could to baby them, there is always a weak link in the drive line. matching to what your need or use the truck for, and budget sometimes comes into play.

I know this isn't what everybody will agree with, but I reused my head bolt 3 times, my rational was that the local Cummins, as well as Freightliner dealer didn't stock them, parts routinely needing replaced would be in stock, right? In fact you can get a stretch gage to measure bolts, I personally never had a problem until this last rebuild, Bolts are torqued in sequence 3 times, you will feel a bolt stretch, (if you zoom on pic you will notice the stretch), but then again I don't put out the HP some other guy's trucks do, I did this time buy some new Cummins NOS bolts because 1 bolt stretched. Bought my rebuilt kit from CCP diesel, whole kit with Mahle pistons was under 1K. Also if valve guides are sloppy, you can get inserts from Highway and Heavy parts Sorry my bad, I got valve guides from AGkits, If you need them I'm sure I can find part #'s but my head had a lot more miles than yours does, might not need them.

Your truck handle it ok?

How did it trailer feel behind you?

You won't have any problem, towing that truck you won't even know its behind you, even on a trailer. They didn't come with gauges from the factory.

Havn't even started the truck yet, when I was young and built a chevy 327 from a vette, I never finished the rest of the 67 Chevlle SS it went into because it was too fun too drive, so waiting to finish this project before I even fire up the engine. I had this trans in before I burned a hole in #6 cyl, loved it, very rarely had too pull it out of 6th. but I'm getting closer to finishing, got one new fiberglass fender fitted, just need to get the other done, paint them and the hood. Anyone ever see one of these? Paint looks better in pics than in living color. Have over 700 pictures, think people might get bored. Be glad to post whatever stage or component that interests you. You have me wanting to buy an aux trans and put it in, but will have to wait, Double OD would help with mileage when deadheading, plus just fun to play with the gears!

I never get too load trailers, just deliver them.

Been past you a few times when I-80 around Elk Mountain was white out. Like the "Patriot" Color. Been there, at times never thought I would finish.

That sure sounded sweet, the motor, not the sneeze.

Like to find one for my interior, had a cracked dash core, found an agate dash core, so switched the whole interior over from Lt. gray to agate. Had ordered the dash cover from LMC in Lt. gray, but I had a set of Fiberglass OTB fenders to pick-up in KC so went to their warehouse and swapped .Found all the interior parts after scrounging several trucks in the local U-pull-its, other than the LMC cover have about $200 in the swap. Cut the cup holders that come with auto trans off, and reinforced the mounting plate to tuck my CB in that space, not quite done but like how it's looking.

Like that woodgrain bezel, where that come from? Lmc?

Ya, I know they need cleaned. Still have some tread.

Factory wheels power coated in Gun Metal Gray , got all seven just under $500 taxes kill ya.

You want to sell the center caps from the old wheels?

Okay got dash up , trying to figure how to mount my CB, since the manual trans come with a covey hole instead of the flip down cup holders that come with an Auto trans,I got a Auto flip down cup holder from a junk yard and cut the cup holders off, reinforced the plastic, just not sure how to make my Cobra 29 in that space. Thinking of drilling/tapping into the dash frame with threaded rod on the top 2 mounting hole then fabricate a mount for the CB, but looking for any input.

The wiring had enough give to lay it down, most wiring is clipped to the dash frame, only disconnected to completely pull dash, when installing new dash hooked all wiring back up prior to installing dash cover, then lifted onto bolts, also purchased new push in nuts for firewall from dealer, old ones were brittle.

Not sure I understand the question, I took the bolts out on both side to get it dropped down as far as I could.

Replaced my interior/ dash with a junk yard dash, from a u-pull-it yard, I had the light gray interior but the dash was broken where the A/C controls mounted, was going to try and fix, but it was to brittle, New cover I got from LMC, ordered it in light gray before I figured my dash wasn't repairable (at least I was going to get it pieced together, only 3 hrs from KC so I drove down an exchanged for the Agate, so far I only have about $150 into the interior parts from the yard. I did crack the "new dash" slightly used some JB plastic weld, you can see by the light switch, but it's solid now.

Got it up, fit the front first, then the braces and vents, fits nice, just need too put the rest of the stuff back in, Speedo, switches, air bag, etc.

No they are for mounting to the vents and braces, think I'm going to use the Hex head screws.

Reason i asked was the screws came with washers from LMC , vs the OEM 7mm hex head flange screws, have plenty of them, guess I sometimes I worry too much how I put stuff back together.