Blueox01

Why are you rebuilding your NV5600? Do you have a 4x4?

thought saying he "caught me" ment I was suggesting 9007's:doh: my bad.

Thought thats what I said he needs 9004 bulbs,did you miss read?:banghead: --- Update to the previous post... Thought I said 9004 was correct,went through this myself,

They should do that for you,you should have valves ground and new seal installed. Make sure you take to a shop shop that knows these heads,there is a Min deck height that needs to be adhered too.

Call your local parts store,O'rielly's,advance,autozone,napa or you could always pay 3 times the amount and call your local Dodge dealer w/last nine of Vin#. Point is these are not going to be some obscure part/hard to find.

Frieghtliner:doh:

Call your local Frieghtliner or Cummins Dealer, have engine# ready,don't tell them it's for a Dodge,Baldwin and Fleetguard are also good filters approved by Cummins.

Save yourself time and money REPLACE both master/slave cyls,you can now buy from various part stores.

Sweat and busted knuckles really gets you to appriciate your truck,when I first got mine I pushed her hard when pulling,now I baby her even though I have more transmission that I'll ever need:smart:

Thats what I was going to say:thumb1: But Mike beat me to it:evilgrin:

About $70 from O'rielly,might check with cummins/frieghtliner(might be a better quality part) I know I need to replace mine,because belt isn't riding correctly.

Yes it has wore into the tensioner,but I thought replacing the pully would eliminate that,going to replace the tensioner and belt and go from there. Thanks Mike

Go rent a trans jack from your local rental,usually if you rent fri/sat you get the weekend for a day rate,save yourself some headaches

My belt rides towards the front and eats into the tensioner,I've replaced the pully(not the tensioner) but only does this w/AC belt,I have non/AC belt that seems to run correctly,but for the life of me I can't see how to adjust the AC compressor since there is a roll pin that has to align in mounting bracket.

After further inspection,I can push back on the fork to bring the pedal up.The best I can figure it must be in the clutch/throw out bearing/fork:shrug:

Working on a 95 probe GT,clutch pedal won't return fully,I can push the fork back against the slave to get it to return. My question is there a spring to pull the fork back or is the throw out bearing just not sliding on the input shaft freely?

If you have a boot off you would'nt build boost,You sure you not hearing the intake through the BHAF(or have you had that on for awhile)

Any work done recently?

27 ft lbs

Little more than I can tackle in a truck stop parking lot,gonna have to find someone to do it. --- Update to the previous post... Good breakdown but he has the part#'s backwards the double step down seal is 5073944AA,Timken part# 4525V

Anyboday know what size socket I need for the Differential pinion nut? Hit a tire last night that was in the road and one one the steel wires took out my Diff seal.So now I'm stuck in Madison,WI.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

I have an 01 that was basiclly stock,i did have a Hypertech programmer,pulled all kinds of loads no problem. 10k is'nt a LOAD. --- Update to the previous post... Whats your rear axle ratio? 4x4 any oversize/taller tires?

I can't believe I am that stupid,but I guess I am:banghead::banghead::banghead:.Can rebuild this motor,modify a fuller 6 speed to this motor,but can't buy the right head lamp bulbs(checked old bulbs 9004). --- Update to the previous post... I guess I'll try to play stupid at walmart in the morning,won't be hard i guess,hopefully the person will be even dumber than I play. If not:spend:

I had a low beam lamp out,tired of buying 1 at a time so bought a set of Sylvania 9007 installed now on constant high beam,won't switch to low? Am i missing something here or did i get a bad bulb,wrong bulbs?:banghead: