Blueox01

Do yourself a favor and buy a Timbo sensor,if you put on any miles you'll need it.

Mine cracked at 425k pulling heavy loads(i bought the truck with 70k) cummins told me(for what is worth) was from vibration(ever feel a 24V,it's like ultra sound) anyway NEW block from frieghtliner $1500.

So much for physics class in high school:doh:

I thought metal contracts when cooled,should'nt you put the shafts in the freezer so the bearings slip on?

Yea,thats what i was getting at,but on second thought you sure thats all you'll need,the main shaft is going to be longer on a 2wd(i think).

Looks like it took out the case too?That what happened to my first NV5600,snapped the main shaft.

Double Overdrive:smart: --- Update to the previous post... You could try Inland Truck Parts,Blumenthals or google For Reman NV5600,I know there are others that Reman these just can't remember the name of the one in Portland,OR:shrug:

Might try some Howe's Meaner Cleaner in one tank before tearing into it,did'nt help my rough idle but i had 780k on my injectors.

Wheel bearing grease should work,maybe a thin coat on splines just to help with assembly. If your turning flywheel(not a whole bunch can be removed,just enough to get rid of hot spots) have it bored for for a roller bearing. Looks like a working shop. Where is Elgin,TX?(could mapquest but to lazy)

You are pulling the front end out? radiator,condensor,front(radiator cross member)bumper?

#3 intake rocker arm bolt came out,had to helicoil it. Guess i better talk to the last guy that worked on my engine,wait that was me:banghead:

Already did external inspection,nothing found.:banghead:

Driving yesterday,and layed it to the throttle(not any harder than i have before)now truck is running like crap. No codes,lot of white/light grey smoke from exhaust. Real rough idle,not any better above idle.:banghead:

Ebay or sometimes salvage yards have a pull your own lot(a local one here does anyway)for parts that they normally don't pull,i end up finding a lot of small parts.Just have to keep checking back.

Look inside your kitchen cabinets should be a sticker that will give you a UVW(Unloaded Vehicle Weight),unless it's been removed.

Don't understand "sucking air",you saying you think you have an intake leak because of the 'white smoke"?

If you ran out of fuel,it won't start until you get the air out of the fuel lines. like dually said you'll need to crack some fuel lines at the head to get fuel to the injectors. Does you lift pump run?

Are you sure you have Fuel? You should hear the pump when you turn the key to start(just bump the starter)Actually the pump shuold run for 15 sec when key is turned to run.

Who carries Krud kutter?

Would'nt it be just as easy to get a map sensor for an 01? Unless the threads don't match. Or make an adapter. I would help but mine did'nt come w/adapter.

Unplug it:lmao:Seriously i think the dealer can disable the dinger using a DRBII,probly cost you an hour labor.

Ok,I thought what the 2001 dodge service manual is calling the socket on pg.1409 fig 61 #5 was a little hyd adjuster that helps cut down on valve adjustment.

If you can see a wear mark on the crank use the sleeve kits,if not just a seal.Big thing is to make sure the crank is clean and DRY,no oil should be applied to the crank prior to new seal being installed.Last one i had to buy(rear seal) was $80 from frieghtliner.It should come packaged over a plastic installer,so all you do is slide if off the installer onto the crank. Did you end up getting a used engine that your rebuilding?

Maybe the Hyd adjuster is bad?

Bought me a new pin and weather proof plug,soldiered new wire in shrink wrapped up,Edge working now.