Blueox01

Ok, off subject but when I turn key to on/not running my Oil pressure gauge goes to 40psi, one lead has .5 volts , one has ground continuity, the other has 0V I admit I'm not the sharpest pencil when it comes to electrical issues. Whey Keyed to start it goes to 0 again, That right? Been so long since this truck has run, can't remember. I bet you look at that truck with $'s in hand you won't pay $4500 Worst he can say to an offer is say NO. But you'll get his bottom dollar, you can drive and get lunch and always come back with more $'s

As long as the title doesn't show higher miles on it I wouldn't worry. Well you know anything you get done the miles are logged, even tires changed get logged.

Yea that's the reason behind it. With the old rolling Odom's they would turn over back to all 0's. With today's you put in a lower mileage one and go to trade, someone, somewhere did any maintenance or traded once already it's logged it a computer, Say you have oil changed at 213K 3 yrs ago,you go to trade and Odom shows 133k , Then it's TMU I suppose you get to 999999 it makes little difference other than you tracking maint intervals.

I thought the dealer's could set miles, I.E. the dash cluster goes bad at xxxxx miles New dash cluster would need to be set at the same xxxxx miles or vehicle would be TMU (True miles unknown), makes a big diff on a trade in.

There are a chit load of wrecked and rolled trucks out there still under warranty, accidents don't relate to maintenance, looks like the truck was used for business, business owners usually take care of maintenance items. Don't take much time to take a truck apart, it's putting back together right that take time. 3k profit / 80hrs labor that's almost 40hr, that's not a bad wage to me anyway, don't think I'd have 80hr into it though. Wow that suck's thought it would be neat to have an 18yr old truck w/6 0's on odometer! I thought dealer's could set mileage on the Odom's, might be wrong

That the hauler w/ the brown 2500 2wd?

I hear "rebuilt" I see 18yr old kid slapping in bearings, rings, head gasket and painting the block. I bought My 01 w/68k pulled weight until the 53 block cracked at 453k, got new block from Freightliner, had crank checked, head done, since it was already off , went another 400k, till I burned a hole in #6, Crank is still standard, #6 sleeved, Head needed a few valve guides and a few valves replaced, surfaced. Can turn the crank by hand after all the mains torqued.Hey but who's know might start knocking at start up or leak like a sieve going down the road. But hey it's looks purdy. I guess to each his own.

I would trust a running engine over a "rebuilt" personally,maybe because I've seen others peoples work. that might just be me though. Most rebuilds don't come complete, Long Blocks etc, lots of extra goodies on a pulled motor. But that's just me.

I don't do Facespace What's molested mean? Cannibalized?

Might not double his money, but hard to find a good used 24V with those miles under 4K, not to say they can't be found. Still have Trans, Trans case, Diff,Leather interior, Dash, some body parts. I think I would leave in Truck till sold so buyer could hear run , De-grease and power wash engine. I sure I could turn a decent profit, depends on how fast a person needs to recoup the initial investment https://www.mylittlesalesman.com/cummins-59l-engines-for-sale-i4c235f575m166280,

I bought a 93 Jeep Cherokee 250K for and no interior for $200, parted it out by the time I sold the body to some guy I made $1200 profit. If you can pull the parts and don't have to worry about it costing $45 to ship a $25 part I don't think you'll have any problem turning a buck, But get it as cheap as you can.

A good 24V engine goes for around 2K with those kind of miles,plenty left over to turn a profit.

Soon you'll have a pretty good supply of used 2nd gen parts if you keep buying these.

Cool.

You have a PCM located?

What happened?

Always interested in learning, I know I'm not a master fabricator. But did you notice the urethane engine mounts, they should handle the torque of my little motor. When I first adapted this Trans there was just a brace to support the back of the Trans, that my dad made in a few hours, since I was using truck as my means of income, and couldn't be down. I went with that for almost 250k, never had any issues other than the trans vibrating against the brace, which I solved albeit as a temp fix with portions of tire rubber u-bolted to it. Plus look how your 5600 is mounted, with 2 bolts in the center w/ a rubber mount, not designed to handle any torque the engine mounts takes the engines torque.

Rear bearing in 2 of them, 1 I snapped the main shaft pulling a set of goose necks bucking a headwind in Ok's panhandle.

I didn't notice it wasn't a 24v with a VP44, but a common rail, until i re-watched the video. But yea you have to make sure rods go back on with pistons orientated right. But like that block stiffener, not sure if that will bolt to my block, anyway not going to tear it apart now.

My bad.

Not sure what minor differences you speak of? I got most my info from an old post a guy in NM posted, I think he did get it adapted to a 4x4 since I think these trans would have been in med duty 6x6 trucks, but I'm not the one to help with conversion parts, sorry

Yep, I needed new pistons and my machine guy got them on backwards, when 1st rod I put in hit block was a big clue. Like that bottom brace, not sure I have enough HP to justify but hey would be nice. I adapted a fuller FSO 8406 behind this, after 3 NV5600 trans I figured I needed something bigger. Thanks for your input! You look like you own/work at a truck shop in Grants, at least by the pics and your knowledge of these engines.

My engine pic

I hope my engine sounds that good when I fire it up, think the pipes will thump. Stay in Grants on my way to folks for Christmas past several years in Mesa, run down through Holbrook to Payson , gonna miss this year though.

It wasn't stretched until the final torque, I felt it stretch because it wouldn't torque properly on final torque, so the gage is great for bolts you've removed. Bolts shown are for image only. These bolt were main cap bolts. I keep trying to upload a Video of me turning by hand crank after torqued, but I'm too stupid to figure out how to do it right.