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Alright guys how many of you know how to float your gears in your 5 or 6 speed cummins? Recently I tried it for the first time and it’s surprisingly easy to do no grinding and no resistance when shifting. I also tried it in my Jeep Wrangler with lil trouble. I’ve found quite a few older posts regarding the syncros suffering from floating gears but is that only because people aren’t doing it right? The reason being is that my stock clutch is slipping. And I’m trying to buy as much time as possible. Any advice or personal experience would be greatly appreciated!!!

Oh no those are permanent freeze plugs I hope??!! I remember seeing those when I did my tappet gasket ?.

This is sounding like a large project.... haha darn it! Great question I’ll have to ask

I thought there was 1 on the back and 3 on the passenger side?

The Freeze plug is completely gone. I have a hunch that my truck sat for many years. When I replaced the thermostat a long time ago the head looked like it had almost rusted something. Maybe the antifreeze went bad and etched the head?. How difficult is it to get the remaining 3 out?

Ok guys I was towing my boat home from the lake as I was going up a hill in town I encountered a MAJOR problem. I dumped my entire coolant system. I just did a head gasket about 10K miles ago. I run ARP’s and I have an upgraded turbo. I know it’s leaking from the back of the block. Any guesses to what my problem is?

Alright guys I just had a 500 mile rd trip on relatively flat ground. I was finding so very interesting results. I have my own custom daily tune to keep the smoke at bay but if I lay into it she fuels hard. I also have downloaded loaded the dyno tune and I decided to try it on the open rd. The first two pictures are from my daily and the second two are from the dyno. Look at the throttle position and engine load... Im beginning to think the dyno tune at speed is actually a decent MPG tune

@Mopar1973Man let me make sure I understand. You are thinking with the latest adjustment to lower my timing my cruise state load should go down? If it does then you can tell the timing was too advanced because the engine now operating more efficiently with less timing?

@Mopar1973Man ok sounds good I will have to do a little bit of adjustment. I was around 21.5* of timing at 72 mph and approx 1990RPM. You definately have a balancing act!! Here in San Diego we don’t have much winter. It was 89* yesterday?

@Mopar1973Man thank you! On a side note my last two tanks I was getting approx 19MPG (hand math and mileage compensation for 35” tires) so hopefully with a bump in my cruise timing I’ll be able to smash that. My truck is leveled and I am running a camper shell so I’m pumped to see if a timing improvement will help my numbers ??

That makes sense now. At 71 it’s 22-25%. So set it at that?

@Me78569 when I set my Light throttle percent down to 15 because I am running 100 horse injectors with a bigger turbo why does my timing get significantly reduced IE, if I am going 70 miles an hour with my light load percentage at 15 my timing is only 16. However if I set my light loan to 30% my timing jumps up to 21° at the same speed why is that?

I should say disappointed. I more or less was frustrated with every bump in the rd. With the instillation of the new head and the new turbo. I was burnt out on the project. The turbo is great. Power Driven Diesel has great customer service and great people to deal with to be honest. @Silverdodge

I’ll take care of the studs as you said above this afternoon when I get home!! Thank you @jlbayes Power Driven Diesel was one of the only vendors that I could get to ship to ca. The 90* that came in the kit does don’t fit what so ever... However I found out my stock 90* elbow could work I just had to adjust the Turbo compressor housing a lil. Had no idea I could even do that @jlbayes how many re-torques can the ARP’s take? I’ve always wondered that. I work in structural steel and they only allow the use of high strength bolts once if it needs to be removed it’s tossed. Granted they are not as much as ARP’s

To decrease turbo lag should I adjust my canbus fueling curves? And what else? I’m ready to start adjusting everything to get the truck happy again still running 100 horse injectors new turbo is 62/65/12 gated

Ok guys. Started the truck did the valve adjustments. Checked for leaks all is well. Took the truck for a spin let it get warm. Now ima let it sit overnight and tighten the head studs. Any break in period for the turbos? Or the gasket? I plan on tightening the studs next weekend or so.

The new one has a 2.75” OD. The part is also too short to connect to my correct intercooler plumbing @jlbayes

Ok guys next issue has come up. My new 90* for the S362 is different than my stock one. It’s a shorter bend and a shorter part in overall length. I cannot use the stock 90 because it twists the turbo (larger compressor housing) so the oil drain is passed 20°s to the side and not level to the world. Second problem is that they are two different diameters. See pictures attached. Option on one I get a coupler that necks down and is a little longer so I can make the connection. But who sell that sort of thing? Option two I find a different 90* that is a larger diameter and an inch longer but it still has to maintain that sharp 90*. I have no idea how to solve my problem but I am slowly beating this truck into submission. Persistence is gonna pay off!!!!

I’ll upload pics as soon as I get home

Ok guys I was trying to install my new turbo and I found this rather interesting. The stock turbo has threaded studs into the turbo flange. The exhaust housing has the other two threaded bolts. Is this normal? I was told usually the exhaust manifold has 4 studs on it...

Received news that the shop tested 3 different heads... the first two had cracks similar to mine. The third head was free of cracks! Yahoo now I just need to wait for them to do a valve job and a re-surfacing and I’ll be back to the assembly. Hopefully the shop doesn’t take too long! Getting anxious about getting the truck back on the road

@jlbayes the crack is like that on the exhaust valves. I’m pointing at the crack and that is cylinder 1. @Dieselfuture I have been doing some lengthy researching on this and I just saw this idea last night. This is what I found so far. I had no idea you could install new seats... lol

Ok head was dropped off and the shop showed me how to remove the valve springs. The crack extends into the valve a lil ways on both sides. I wish I would have taken a picture. The shop was closing so I guess the pressure test will be tmw!!! I found an image on google similar to my situation. @jlbayes does your crack look similar to this?

@jlbayes ok found a way to get the head to the shop tonight to get pressure tested. Would you run the cracked head even if it passes the pressure test?

@jlbayes have you dealt with these guys? Option 2: https://www.littlepowershop.com/dodge-cummins-diesel/1998-5-2002-5-9-cummins-24v/engine-parts/cylinder-heads-related/1998-2002-dodge-5-9-cummins-24v-new-cylinder-head-loaded-w-103lbsprings/ I havent been able to source a used OEM reman head yet. Still just doing homework before a purchase is decided.