TheGreatWhite

The tune in currently running starts at 15*, then 2k is 19*.

So I posted back in December that I was having trouble with mileage in my 01 3500, and 6 months later I still am. Engine load at 65-70 usually hangs out at around 32-35 if the ground is flat, and the way my tune is set up (just like what is recommended and also based off tunes you guys have made) I'll cruise at about 15* of timing. I've checked everything for drag and still have found not brakes dragging or anything. Bout the only thing maybe out of line, would be at idle after it's warm it'll stumble a bit, but it still maintains the 6-9% load, I even saw it at 12% with the AC on. So anyways, would I do any damage by setting my load limit higher to maintain the desired 19-20* at 2k? I've gone through multiple tunes and like I said before, I can feel the changes in the way it drives but man it does not change economy at all, period, and I'm getting fed up and I'm about to go back to my smarty....

Looks like it!

Should be under like just steering or something, definitely not just tie rods. Poke around on there and you'll find it. It's been a year since I bought it so I can't remember off the top of my head.

Rock Auto has a complete $200 Moog T steering kit for a 2012 (they're all the same I just happened to pic that year :p) and I've had it for about 10k now and so far so good! No complaints, about the only think I needed to do was cut a half inch off both sides of the adjustment points of the drag link that goes into the adjustable collar, but that was literally it.

Oh ok I gotcha now, thought I was doing something wrong!

Elaborate on "updated" please. I just hop in my truck and drive. Is that not what I need to do?

Doesn't seem too bad! Thank you very much sir!

Seeing how my luck has gone here recently it wouldn't surprise me if that spring with the loop is bad So since I've never done anything like this, what's the best way to support the truck to take them off so the axle doesn't roll away or I get hurt? Edit: Just got off the phone with Atlas Spring and Axle, $500 for a new pair of leafs, and he said with 340k on it and the time it did in Michigan, he recommended brand new springs..... So should I buy some from them or buy some from a reputable source you guys or others have used??

I believe my buddy just got a set of ubolts from a spring place, but I'm not sure! Would it be cheaper than buying one for <$200?

Imma accept it though cause that's pretty good

So as I was walking down my driveway today, I happened to look at my truck to see it sagging towards the driver side. So I just double checked my sanity and grabbed a couple levels and put them on my bed and sure enough it was leaning over towards that way. Next step, I measured the driveway, and believe it or not the driveway "leans" towards the passenger side! So I measured the tires, front left to front right and so forth and sure enough on the rear driver side tires, they're over an inch off, whereas the fronts are 1/2". Also I might add, when I step up into the truck that leaf close to where it connects to the front shackle creeks pretty good, and its easy to rock the truck side to side. Not surprising, the truck does have 339,670 miles on it. With that knowledge would it be safe to say that the rear driver side leafs need replaced, let alone just throwing a whole new set on both sides? If so where should I buy them, and if I do have to buy new ones, are there any that are a "soft ride" without any capacity compromise? This is my daily, and is slowly turning into a welding rig with my 72 SA200 on it, which is roughly 1300lbs and more to come as I slowly accumulate what I need for my rig. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

It never really bothered me cause I grew up in dually's and all we drive are 3500s cause my family rodeos (I used to but thankfully got out of it) so I never thought about how rough they ride, especially with 340k on my truck, until I road in a buddy's 2500 that has 142k on it and that's when I figured something may need changed

340k miles on my springs and my $1.25 frame can rock the truck pretty easily

I've been having the same problem as OP but my injectors are only 2 years old, and my quad reads 6-9% load at idle. If they were bad it would explain the high engine loads I've had problems with recently...

I've thought about it but it'd need a rollback. My brother was the one who informed me about it and he actually popped the hood and gentle touched the valve cover and it turned to dust. All of it.

Complete loss. I mean there's like 0 interior and you can see the ground in the cab....

My little brother has a friend who owns a ranch in central Kansas and during the burning season one of their trucks got caught on the fire and they let it burn to the ground. It was a 2014 Dodge 3500 with a G56 and like the title says, is it possible to save the motor and transmission? Obviously the motor looks like hell with all of the plastic melted and ashy and rusty since the fire baked it, but I was curious if I could get a good deal, basically next to nothing hopefully on it, if it was worth saving and reselling some of the parts like injectors and internals, or even using the G56 in my 2000 that still needs a transmission. Thanks!

So question. Is it possible, since I have 2 trucks, to swap out modules, or are they bound to the truck? I If not, I may see if the one off my 00 auto works, and if not I'll send it off and throw it on my truck once it's fixed.

So was your rear sensor not showing any signs of being bad besides the buzzing? Like was your tach working and everything?. The only problem I can see with mine is the clip for the plug is broke and that's it.

Would it be possible to take the module off and still drive the truck? Or should I yank the one off my 2000 that's also broke and send it to them and swap them when I get it back?

Sweet thank you sir! Are they still open with all this happening?

Thank you! Appreciate the help and knowledge!

Why have an "abs" option then? Not saying you're wrong it's just strange! Could the constant humming be a bad module? I've read that could be the case.

So when I bought my 01 3 years ago it came with the ABS and Brake light on and although we figured out the brake light being the entire pedal assembly was bad, we never could figure out why the abs light was on and why the module would buzz when plugged in. Fast forward last may doing axle shafts, find out the passenger side hub sensor had been cut somehow, so we replaced that and tried to plug it back on with a buzz still occuring whether the truck is on or off. I gave up on it as I had more pressing things to fix on it. Well quarantine has got me itching to fix something so I figured I'd dive in, and plugged it in and busted out our Bosch scan tool from oriellys, and all I get is "not detected" instead of "no codes". Would this be a bad module? I can't find anything else abs wise that is bad, all the wires are still connected where they're supposed to be. The rear speed sensor male plug's clip is broke but it stays in the sensor and I have a speedo so I don't think that is the problem. If anyone's got any ideas let me know! Thanks! TL;DR Scan tool yields "not detected" for abs codes yet light is on and module is buzzing constantly whether truck is on or off.