RPM

I am not getting any changes in voltage no matter how long it runs. I called the dealership today and they told me they can diagnose the truck for 47 dollars. I am just not confident if they will really let me know what the problem is or not. Another problem is, I am running up against my plates expiring and I need to get my emissions. There is no way they will test the truck in limp mode. Quite frankly, with as much hair as I have pulled out since this has started, the 47 bones would be worth it.

Progress, or lack thereof report. I checked the running voltages today with the help of a pin and my DVM. The voltage at the MAP was right at 5.01 volts and never wavered. I unplugged one sensor at a time to see if any of the codes would change. The only thing that happened was the sensor I disconnected would code. When I plugged them back in they all cleared. I am getting to the point that I don't believe it is the ECM but for the life of me I don't know what the heck is going on. What is the chance I got a bad MAP from Geno's?

I was able to get under the hood today. I checked to see if I had any shorts in the sensor wires, no dead shorts. I checked the impedance between the sensors and the ECM plug, all seem in the same ball park.I took out the ECM and checked to see if all the grounds were interlinked or if there was a short between some other pin and a ground. I have good continuity between all the ground pins. I do not have continuity between the grounds and any other pins. One thing I found is I have continuity between the case of the ECM and pin 42 (Cummins Bus Shield), and pin 44 (Data Link Shield Inj). No continuity between the case and any other pin. I do not know if this is a problem or not. Is there something else I can check while I have the ECM out? If I take the ECM to Cummins can they test it? One last question, can someone tell me why I have just one wire going to my oil pressure sensor?

Finding a Cummins truck in a junk yard around here is pretty difficult. I think I would have better luck with the lottery. Yes, my code reader says it will not go over 40% load. I will try that, thanks. Any other suggestions? I have read the threads that say the ECM is incredibly hard to kill and I wonder if I am missing something. On the other hand there seems like enough people have had issues with the ECM as well.

Well I changed out the IAT and MAP sensors and it still shows the same codes. I couldn't clear them with the code reader. I don't have a scan gauge, and my code reader will not let me see the live data. I disconnected the batteries for a day and cleaned off the terminals just to be sure, same results. I again unplugged my XZT and no change. I am thinking this is the death nail for my ECM. With Christmas on the horizon, I really don’t have $1500.00 to give Dodge for a new ECM. I don't have the time or money to spend on shoddy reman either. Can someone give me some leads on where I can get a quality ECM for cheap?

Ya, I'm not there yet. The truck just runs at a decreased level of power. Really no jerking and the gauges are working fine. Starts the same, throttle responds the same, but just stops about what I would estimate to be 1/3ish of the top end. Slow to build boost and only those two sensors showing as having a voltage problem. I would like a scan gauge to check the live voltage like Michael said.

Ya, I checked the bulb and socket. No continuity between the sides. Maybe I have a short somewhere between them. I looked around a little on Ih8mud but couldn't fiund an answer to my specific question.Thanks though Mike

So this might be a bit out of the norm. I am doing a 350 Chevy swap into my sons 1983 FJ-60. The motor is a 1987 out of a GMC van (I know, probably not everyone’s first choice but I have to play with the Colorado emissions standards). The transmission is an older model 700R4. To the meat of the question. The Toyota wiring harness had a four wire plugt hat went along the frame and plugged into the transmission if I recall, sorry the swap has taken longer then I thought it would. One wire is a white black I think is a ground. One is a yellow black that I have no idea what it is. One is a blue and if I power it sends power to the dash. The fourth is a red blue (?) that turns on the right reverse light. What should I do with these four wires? Why does only one reverse light come on? I have a four pin plug in the 700R4 that is incorporated into the GM harness but I am not quite sure how the 700R4 activates the reverse lights. Any help would be appreciated.

When I ran the 275's I did see better milage. If I recall it was about 1 to 2 MPG empty, and a bit better than stock under load. Some noticable power difference also. Overall I was happy with them.

That's what I have heard, when the ECM goes it shows a code on almost every sensor. I will swap the two and see what happens. I also downloaded the testing sequence from the error codelist last night. I will spend some quality time with my multi-meter this week.

I unhooked the XZT today, without any change. I have 5 volts at each of the sensors when connected. No change in voltage when they were disconnected. Still have the same codes. Tried the AC pressure switch thing as recommended by my neighbor, and no change. I like the MAP sensor idea a whole lot better than a new ECU. Hope I am not throwing good money after bad if I start changing sensors.

I've got a new one. I have the following codes; 0112 Intake Air Temp Sensor voltage low, 0230 Lift pump circuit out of range (This doesn't surprise me much as I took off the electric pump and have been running the mechanical pump for a few months now. Maybe I should have did something with the wires instead of just unplugging them), 0237 Manifold Air Pressure sensor voltage low, and 1475 Aux 5 volt supply voltage hi. The dead pedal affects the top speed. My acceleration sucks and it tops out about 55/60.Now I have heard 1475 is one of the codes that shows up when the ECM takes a dump but it accompanies codes from all the sensors and the alternator starts putting out crazy numbers. My alternator is charging at 14 volts and I just have the two sensors. Also The sensor voltage is low and the 1475 is the high side.A mechanic I know says Dodges have had an issue with the AC hi side pressure switch goes out and takes out the other sensors along that reference string. Since I have never heard of such a thing. I will check that tomorrow. Anyone have anything with this set of codes? And anyone know where the error code reference went? I can't find it.

The chrome isn't affected by the heat of the cure as long as it’s in good shape the powder will adhear. I have done it a few times with faucet parts and crap around the house as well as friends wheels a while back. Still wearing well.

I have that gun. Buy it directly from Eastwood and save a couple of bucks. The dual voltage gun works better than the single, especially if you are doing two coats of powder like one of their anodized coatings over silver or chrome powder. Most of their powders flow out at 450 and cure at 400 degrees. As stated before, make sure the parts are to bare metal and cleaned with acetone to remove all the grease and oil from them, including the oil from your fingers. I have a Craftsman portable sandblaster that works pretty good and cost me around 100 dollars. You are limited in the size of what you can coat by the size of the oven. There are some people who have built larger ovens using the guts of an old one. You can get a used oven free if you look around. Another option is an IR lamp for big parts. I haven't tried this but a buddy of mine got one from Harbor Freight and used it coat a boat trailer. The only thing I disagree with is it will apply over chrome, just make sure it's in good shape. Any defect in the chrome will show and cause the coating to break down.

I would pull the transfer tubes just to change the o-rings. I had one go bad once and it cause a hard starting problem, just a little prevention to save a lot of hassle later.

Are these solder connections related to any specific trouble codes? Another question, since you are repairing the current computer board, recalibration is not required right? I am not in need to repair my VP (Knock on wood) but surely info like this will come in handy at some point.

$150,000 would buy a few injection pumps.

It is probably going to be spring before I have everything together. That's just in time for it to be nice enough to work on it though. I will post something when I get it all together.

That’s too bad, an affordable option would be nice.

That is some good information.

I am acquiring parts for something similar. Doing 150’s, studs, my HX35 over a S475, a DD clutch and water meth. Hopefully this setup will get the 41 foot Raptor through the mountains without much trouble.

I bet you could modify a cheap deep well socket in a few minutes and have something very close.

Essentially, what you are saying is, rebuilding the mechanical portion of the pump is possible without a lot of special equipment. However, if the electronics are done so is the pump, correct?

I just did some Cummins Performance Parts nozzles on some older bodies I had around. By the time I bought the nozzles and had the sticks popped and shimmed back to spec I only saved maybe 75 bucks.

When I had an electric gauge, I used a grease gun hose and mounted it on the firewall. Still went through two sending units. They were GlowShift sending units though so that could have been the issue.