RPM

When I replaced my gauges about a year ago I was going to get DiPricol's but everyone was out of stock and not getting any more. One retailer said that they were either out of business or not doing business in the U.S. any longer. I bought the ISSPRO's and didn't look into it any further.

I have seen a lot of initial installs that recommend a degree method to finish off the stud but it is interesting that people recommend a 125 ft/lb re-torque on stock bolts for these engines.

X2 on the ISSPRO's. I thought dipricol was out of business?

I can see going with 8/18 if it makes a difference. Without knowing what the piston to valve clearance is I don't know if I would be comfortable going further. I can see the argument of having a little more space to loosen before they are out of spec, but on the other hand I can see heat expansion.

Hmmm, well I guess I will have to try that when I adjust them next spring

Dang, I'm an idiot I guess I failed to look at the correct page. Under the 5.9 DIESEL (Duh) is says: Lightly lubricate head bolts with engine oil and install. Using the sequence shown in (Fig. 30), tighten bolts in the following steps: (a) Torque bolts to 80 N·m (59 ft. lbs.) (b) Torque bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.) © Re-check all bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.) (d) Tighten all bolts an additional ¼ turn (90°) I did read in Diesel Power Magazine though that they were recommending a 125 ft/lb re-torque on one to their project trucks. For what it’s worth.

Yup, that's how I have it connected. I don't have any dielectric grease on the fittings however. The last time I looked at them they seemed to be fine but I should probably lube them up and take a closer look. --- Update to the previous post... IMO ATS wants way too much for their parts, let alone their labor. I have had some interaction with the owner (Related to my business not his) and I was not impressed. I drive by the ATS Empire all the time, I just choose not to do business there. But that's just me.

Great video, I was looking for just something like that. Mine is open too far I guess.

Does two thousands really make that much difference?

Subscribed. I wonder if you could get that driver from Snap On? Is there any place to get the computer board alone?

My service manual says; Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts, in sequence, to 68 N·m (50 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure, tighten all cylinder head bolts to 143 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure to confirm that all bolts are at 143 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) torque. If you suspect a weak bolt I would replace it before you end up breaking it off and you have to pull the head. Just my 2 cents.

Just an update, Pureflow warranted the pump and it ran without an issue until about two weeks ago. The pressure began to fluctuate again, granted not as bad as the prior pump. My neighbor who is a mechanic believes that the pump is seeing voltage spikes from a defective pump relay. I may believe this since they didn’t send a new relay just a new pump. Again, the people at Pureflow do not want to respond to emails and getting them to answer the phone is nearly impossible. I think my pump is again on borrowed time just in time for winter. :banghead: I am quite frankly sick of this. Anyone run a mechanical pump?

Sorry, I forgot to say that I put a draw straw in right after this all started, because I thought the same thing. If I take off the tank outlet line from the Raptor it will pour fuel like crazy until the tank is empty. As far as the air leak goes, I will check that today. If there was an air leak though wouldn't it do it all the time, not just after it runs for 10 minutes or so?

So, I have posted my problem on another forum and I am not getting much response. A couple of weeks ago my fuel pressure began to fluctuate. What happens is that the pressure is fine (19 psi) when I start the truck but it will soon drop to below five PSI. It will return to normal after to sits a while, but the pressure will always fall again. When the pressure begins to fall my Raptor pump begins to whine until it is very noticeable as the pressure approaches five psi and I shut the truck down. I changed the filter twice, checked my lines, changed the overflow valve twice and I still have the same problem. The only thing I can think of is that the Raptor is bad. It has only been on the truck since last June. I do not know if a tear in the diaphragm on the VP would cause this issue. Maybe I am missing something. I have attempted to contact Pureflow several times via email and voice mail (My problem is I work nights and I get off well before they open and I get up after they close) and have yet to hear from them about the pump or warranty. If the pump is done, I would think Pureflow would warranty it or at least tell my it doesn't qualify for warranty. If I have to buy a new pump then that is what I have to do I guess but I don't know if I will buy another Pureflow product due to the lack of customer service that I have received. I suppose my post rant questions are has anyone had this problem with Pureflow other than me? Is there something that I am missing with my pressure problem ? Thanks