retirednak

My bad,I just got out of the bath tub bitting at the bubbles,so my head wasn't in the game:banghead:. Sorry fellas

The torque management is different then adding timing if I'm not confused by your TM4 remark,its a different setting all together. I wouldn't run the highest setting in TM unless you've built up your trans-clutch ect.

Onced all flushed and clean,don't forget to do the filter. Most places around my neck of the woods 99% don't touch the trans filter. I asked one place why and was told since the trans now has all new fluid a filter change isn't needed. Most of the places were the quick lube type, change oil and filters and squirted grease when needed and of course trans flush. I even called one trans shop and was told the same thing,I won't ever go there for trans repairs.

YourP0743 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid/Trans Relay Circuits P1693 - DTC Detected in PCM/ECM or DTC Detected in ECM ,P1763 - Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too HI ,P1765 - Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Ctrl Circuit ,. If it were me,I would head straight back to the stealership and see if they are willing to help. If not,check all the grounds on the truck. Make sure you clean each connection and not just snugging up the bolt ir nut. After that run a load test on your batteries,perhaps you have a bad battery. Look for any cracked,smashed or frawed wires. You might also try disconnecting both batteries for a half hour or so and see if the codes reset. Also try unhooking your Edge power adder and see if the problem goes away. I tried an Edge product before I went with Smarty,the Edge caused some electrrical grimlins to pop up that I couldn't live with. Double check the Edge connections. I don't know much about the older model trucks or trans issues so perhaps someone else can chime in and offer better advice. Electrical issues suck and tend to leave a bad taste in my mouth since I'm not comfortable dealing with them. You didn't say how long you've had your truck or how many miles are on it. Let folks know about the miles,it may make things easier in the short run. Don't give up,remember you bought an almost 12 yr old truck,issues will show their ugly little head. Good luck-Casey

My '03 is a early model with the 250 hp engine and 47 series auto. I've got my best continued mileage running on 7,and set at 75%. I did have to rebuild my trans within a yr after buying my Smarty due to lack of common sense and a heavy foot. I've played with every level trying to reach the best possible mpg,one road trip this summer with kin folk loaded I reached 20.1 mpg. I'm usually between 16 & 17mpg running here and there. I've never seen the hide side of 18mpg before,so the sun and moons had to have been lined up right. If happen to lug the engine I will see some black smoke. If You have POD feature,you might want to try higher levels and reduce the power and see how your mileage goes.

I had an EZ Edge for a while. If it has the removable pins for power adjustments,look for a loose plastic piece behind the cover of the unit.(2 screws) I moved the plastic do-da's depending when I towed and what not. I had to spread the pins a tad so the plastic do da's held firm. I used curved pliers to spread the pins. Since I have an '03,I didn't have a power wire nor ground to hood up. If you need instructions,you can go to Edge.com and download there,they also have helpful tech dept to answer any question. PM me if anybody is interested in an Edge Mileage Max.

Since I don't have the money right now to convert to a 48,I'm going to have a local Mopar wrench rebuild my tranny with an upgraded TC and VB. Wish I could afford afully built mail order trans from the lower 48,but shipping costs are way too expensive.

I've been trying to figure out why we get raped so bad here in AK. We pump it out of the ground,refine it in state and still have some of the highest fuel prices in the Nation. BP answered this question by saying since there is no competition between major gas companies in state,so it keeps fuel prices high. I may be a tad slow at times,but I don't understand this kind of reasoning. The state has supposed to have investigated price fixing here,but find everything on the up and up.

Not sure if its a repost or not. I've always had a soft spot in my heart for the old PW. This guy has way more money then he needs! http://www.wimp.com/pickuptruck/

Topped off my tank yesterday at $4.60 per gal,glad it only took $80 to top off.

Thanks for the reply. For sure on the VB/TC,since I don't race or pull heavy any longer,I don't think a billet shaft is needed. I'll never see 500 hp out of my truck,I may be lucky to see 400 hp. Only other upgrades I plan on doing are LP and injectors when it needs it.

I guess its the training wheels on my truck that makes my mileage so bad. I used to get around 10 mpg pulling 9K trailer at 55-65 mph. Running without a trailer I felt lucky to see 15 mpg. This was when I was running with either Edge Mileage Max or EZ Edge. Once I got the Smarty POD,nearly had a heart attack when I got close to 18 mpg. That was at 55 mph,damn it hard driving at those speeds!:banghead: I usually see 15-16 mpg running back and forth to town and a trip to Anchorage once a month at 65-70 mpg. I bought the truck in hopes of getting great mileage compared to my last gas pot,boy was I wrong. I'll never go back to gas again,just wish I could get better mileage. My wife tells me I drive like an old man and to put my foot into it. Until fuel prices drop below the $3.68 level,its gonna be grandpa time for quite a while. Hopefully my new trans next month will make a small difference. I wish I never sold my second gen truck,but rust was a big issue and couldn't find a clean one.

I found a guy locally who will rebuild my trans for $22-2400 including the TC. If I want an upgraded valve body it will be on my dime.(I do want) If I member right,he said he uses BD TC and builds the trans to stock specs,but did say he has some tricks,like increasing the pressure,not sure of the other things he does when building the trans. He claims I'll still be able to run my Smarty on any level and pull trailers all day long. He gives a 1 yr warranty,plus I know where he lives. I'm a little worried about rebuilding without upgraded clutches. The heaviest I will pull will be my full size car on a trailer to the lower 48 and back.This fella works at one of the local Mopar stealerships as the trans builder. I've talked to one guy who just had his trans built by the same fella and is happy so far,but hasn't had a chance to pull his 5th wheel equipment trailer yet.What do you guys think about going back to stock with the upgraded TC and VB? Should I insist on upgrading extra clutches?

I'm paying $3.56 just down the road in Knik, Anchorage drivers are from $3.26-$3.56. North Pole is hosing its customers at #3.83, in Cordova is $4.30. Some of the folks in the villages that are remote pay over $9.00 We explore,drill, pump our own oil,refine it,produce it and we are always the highest in the Nation,I'm done and over with it. My wife and me have been thinking real hard about locating to a less costly place to live,have 4 seasons and a person to have a CCW permit. We both have kin in Calif,but they won;t allow anyone to carry for the most part. We're scared of the economy being in the toilet in the lower 48. But we must have mountains,trees,ATV/off roding,winter only 3 months and it doesn't get over 85 degrees, And last,cheap Diesel. If you might have an area that sounds like what were after,please PM me. Thanks-Casey

I'd like to see a fuel pressure gauge or trans temp if you haul anything.

I'm not sure where to start. I received the unit a few days ago,after opening the box I was real impressed with the mount. Its made by Ram Mount,its a nice heavy duty unit with a dial suction cup. They don't provide a written user manual with the dyno dash unit,so one must install the CD to under stand how to try and make the unit function. The user manual is huge and no friggin way can a fella memorize it all,so you either have to print out at least 30 pages or take the PC to your vehicle like I did. After reading through the instructions I try and get the dyno dash to work. First it won't connect with my pickup,so I try the car. Same thing. I go to there website and try the update. After down loading the update,I can't upload it to the unit. After an hour or so I give up pissed off and wait for the wife to get home since she is a wiz at computers. After 20 or so mins she is able to upload the update. So I can now connect to both vehicles,but now the unit can't read the memory card you must buy to store all the data. After further reading I realize I missed a step. Went back and did what I was supposed to do. I try another memory card and its the same ____,won't read the card. So I decide to try and read the live data and not save it. I can't even get the POS to do that. I even tried to use it to check for a thrown code and it wouldn't even to that. What a huge pile of crap. There are way too many steps one must do to even start using the unit. It take forever to go from one step to another,push the button,wait at least 45 seconds,then push another. I may have received a bad unit,or maybe not. My only advice is to save your money and wait till they have all the bugs worked out.

Small world isn't it. I'm out in the Knik area,a tad past Settlers Bay. Next time I'm heading to town,we'll have to hook up so I can see your cooler. If you want to PM me with your e-mail,I'll let you know when I'm heading that way.Casey

As for the injectors it best ot buy a set of injectors that don't require cores then if you need to diagnose a fuel problem you KNOW that your old stock injectors are just fine...

I will be ordering my unit tomorrow and will update everyone after I play with it a while. Can't wait to try it out on my wifes Subaru Forester and see what kind of horsepower its NOT putting out.(not working)

You are right on the button. I have the free "Life time oil changes" from my local stealership and all they use is the Rotella. It takes a good 500+ miles before it ALMOST goes away. Even with 5K miles and I work the truck hard or drive a long distance and then do some in town driving,stop light to stop light I get a wif of it. A friend uses Delo 400 syn in his 2000 Ram and he doesn't get the smell since he switched. I would switch myself,but the free oil and filter change is hard to pass up. Even at only 1 oil change a year.

Tylor,I thought it might be 20%,but I didn't want to speak out and sound tarded if I was wrong. I'm not sure how this start up company is selling their fuel. Instead of starting a new thread,can you make a recommend? I'm thinking it may be time to replace the injectors in my truck. I was going to go with 50 hp upgrades,but after thinking about it further I'll stick to stock injectors. If I end up getting a bad 50 hp,I would be down at least a week waiting on the mail service both ways. Thanks-Casey

All is well,its normal because of the vent tube pumping out the gases. There are threads on how to extend the vent pipe. The smell will go away after a few hundred miles. I will be doing my '03 this winter,can't stand the smell.

Outstanding I hope I'm lucky enough to see half of those miles? Do you know what kind of oil he is running?

Hey Fellas I was looking for the best prices on a ScanGauge II and I came across the DashDyno SPD Pro Pack It does everything the SG II does and more. Yes it is more money,but I like the idea of a Dyno and some of the other features. Insert the CD into your PC and you can all use the program as a diagnostic and scan tool. You can connect your GPS to the unit and the software will track you or somebody else who drives the car. Upload the info to Google Earth and see where your car has been,how fast ect.. There is also an upgrade for Chevy B body's ABS system as well as airbag codes. Its a big ++++ since I have a '96 garage queen. It has pretty good reviews on Amazon and the ricers on a Honda tuner forum can't say enough about it because it reads boost levels,0-60 times,ect. So.....what do you guys think about it? Please don't flame me for lurking around the tuner site.