LiveOak

Last set of tires I ran BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO's in 295/75R-16. They were quiet, lasted a LONG time, great off road and on road. I wanted a bigger tire foot print for off road so I moved up to the 315/75R-16 in the same tire. The 295's rubbed the lower track arm ever so slightly on full turn but fit well otherwise. The 315's definitely rub a good bit on full turns but otherwise have been VERY good tires. Excellent off road tires as well.

You're gonna have to let me know what diet you are on. I need to lose about 20 lbs. Last time I was on the scale at the VA it showed 247 but that with my boots and street clothes on. Still too much.

Having an early dinner with our kids who are home from college and visiting with some friends locally. Remember our troops overseas and those who are no longer with us as we give thanks for all of the blessings the Lord brings our way. Enjoy a great meal with friends and family!

Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner on post #11. The Marxist impostor to the presidency and his Attorney General said they would "do everything they could to dry up the supply of ammunition". Chucku Schumer is attributed with this very quote.

Everyone needs to get on the horn to your congress critters and bring this to their attention. I did and my congress critter had no idea. A nation with no ability to produce its own lead is in dire danger of being unable to go to war to defend itself.

Happy birthday Mike. Many happy and healthy returns!

Excellent post! Really like the sump kit. Wish they were available when we did mine.

For an NV5600 the oil must meet Chrysler's MS9224 specification. If you are going to use Amsoil, I would recommend this: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?code=MTFQT-EA Pennzoil Syncromesh is always a good choice. I have it in both of our truck transmissions.

If you haven't already and you have the time, you may want to change the power steering fluid and engine coolant before your trip especially in view of the current mileage.

Have you taken a look at the vacuum pump and/or vacuum lines for a major leak? A worn or malfunctioning vacuum pump and/or major vacuum leak could cause excessive crankcase pressure to build up especially during long trips. Not so much around town/short trips. Remember that the vacuum pump is vented into the crankcase if I recall correctly.

That was painful to watch.

I have been using their TDR summer and winter blend for several years. I bought a 5 gallon pale of each. No problems with it so far. I run it in my John Deere tractor too.

As Dodge continues to shoot itself in the foot, it appears that Nissan is taking advantage of Dodge's corporate stupidity. http://blog.dieselpowerproducts.com/nissan-joining-forces-with-cummins-what Yes, Dodge insists upon installing a puny, 3 liter, imported VM Motori diesel in their 1500 trucks for 2014. http://blog.dieselpowerproducts.com/chrysler-finally-adds-a-diesel-engine-to-the-1500-dodge-ram The Cummins 5 liter V-8 handily CRUSHES the puny 3 liter VM Motori diesel is just about every aspect. http://blog.dieselpowerproducts.com/chrysler-finally-adds-a-diesel-engine-to-the-1500-dodge-ram The Dodge truck brand has ALWAYS been associated with Cummins (read more like joined at the hip) which has fueled the large market of sales of Dodge's mediocre and poorly designed trucks. The off the shelf component names that are used to build Dodge trucks like Cummins, Dana, New Process, New Venture, etc. have been the critical deciding factor in the decision to buy (at least speaking for myself). These reasons are gradually being removed. After my experience with an engine failure of my daughters 2009 Nissan Versa, I am loath to buy ANYTHING from Nissan. Not being left with any good choices, perhaps the front end redesign and some other improvements for the 2014 Dodge Ram 3500 may be applied to the rest of the line but the Italian 3 liter diesel just does not light my fire. I think I will be keeping my current trucks as they are still better in my opinion, future maintenance costs and all.

Welcome to the forum!

Here is what Buffalo Bore says. https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=59 Here is what Glock says. http://us.glock.com/customer-service/faq Firing cast or swaged lead ammo from an OEM Glock barrel usually results in significant if not severe leading of the barrel. The other reason I would use an aftermarket barrel over the Glock OEM barrel is that the OEM barrel does not fully support the cartridge in the chamber. In some cases this can result in the classic "Glock Smile" or a case blow out/Kaboom worst case which could cause SERIOUS injury as well as destroy the gun. Some video's on chamber support. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgAL6dmrcHM I prefer and use a KKM barrel on my G20. I think it is just a better barrel and the chamber is FULLY supported. I tried Wolf barrels and got tired of sending them back repeated for barrel and feed ramp work. http://www.kkmprecision.com/shopping-cart/?func=order&frompage=cat&cat=G My advice is that if you are going to be firing full SAAMI pressure ammo, get an after market barrel.

It would seem to me if you get lost, with no map, GPS, and more or less your wits and a small backpack (NOT recommended) of goodies......if possible, find a small creek or stream and follow it downstream. Eventually it will lead to a larger body of water and usually the outskirts of civilization. At the very least, you will have water and not become dehydrated and the best chance of finding food if it turns into a longer adventure. My idea of a good pistol for out in the wild would be a Glock 20 using Buffalo Bore 180 grain HP's or 200 grain Hard cast lead (requires an after market conventionally rifled barrel to fire lead rounds). It may not be in the power range of the .44 magnum and larger but those guns usually allow six shots tops while the 10mm BB 180 gr. hp ammo is between the .41 & .44 magnum and you have 16 opportunities to get make your point before reloading is required. Two 15 round magazines would be readily and easily carried along whereas a revolver that size and 45 rounds of ammo would be a bit more of a load to carry.

For starters, I would suggest checking the wire that goes to the lift pump from the ECM for voltage when you turn the key on and when you bump the starter. If you have voltage in the range of 8.5 to what ever the max battery voltage is, you ECM is probably good. IF NOT, rather than reinvent the wheel, I believe this topic has been covered here in the past: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4869-Lift-pump-is-not-powering-up-in-the-on-position In short, you may have to run a relay direct off the battery from a key activated hot wire in the wire harness such as the accessory wire. Hope this helps get you in the clear.

They work good. The thing to consider is that unless you regularly process this many chickens on a regular basis.....you can buy a LOT of chicken with the nearly $500 price tag. I had a few mean roosters who were intent upon tearing up the wife's garden. The latest foray was destroying the entire lettuce crop. Needless to say, the wife was PISSED. The same day, I found one of my hens dead compliments of a couple of mean roosters. My trusty 22-250 did the entire chicken processing in one shot. I did not have the equipment to process them at the time and I REALLY hate to do that as it is a huge waste of meat but the garden was being systematically destroyed by about 4 roosters. They stay out of the garden now. I have ordered a 42 quart scalding pot from wally world: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayou-Classic-Aluminum-Great-Lakes-Boler-with-2-Baskets-42-qt./20405502 I found a real nice processing table at Sportsmansguide: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=956785 For the time being, I am going to try plucking by hand. I plan on processing just the excess roosters. My problem is that over time, we get too many roosters and they are tremendously destructive to the hens, the garden and the yard. They also get the hens so stressed out that they stop laying and raising chicks. Definitely NOT a good thing.

If you just bump the starter without starting the engine, will the lift pump come on?

Spicer is what I would go with. The solid non-greasable u-joints are the strongest.

I will clue you in on a bit of info. If your state regulations are anything like here in TN that allows logging trucks to go upto 100,000 lbs. due to logistical issues with weighing and loading the trucks on the logging site, I bet those 80,000 lb. trucks you are speaking of are much more than you think. And you and I both know, with profit margins what they are for loggers, they are going to load as much on those trailers as they can get away with.

My money is on the driveline universal joints. Last year the wife's truck did the EXACT same thing when I took it for a test drive after performing some maintenance. I pulled into the driveway, crawled under the truck and gave the aft driveshaft a shake and it was sloppy loose. So bad that I could not drive it to the drive shaft shop. I pulled the entire driveshaft assembly and took it to a driveshaft repair place in Muscle Shoals where I had them replace ALL the universal joints in BOTH driveshaft sections (her truck is a long bed), the driveshaft hangar bearing with ALL Spicer components, and spin balance the entire driveshaft assembly. I went with the non-greasable universal joints because they are much stronger. The universal joints that were removed were the original OEM joints that were the non'greasable type. They lasted about 150,000 miles. I doubt we will put that many miles on this truck again if we keep it indefinitely so the non-geasable universal joints are the way to go in my opinion.

What was the fuel gauge reading in the tank when you shut it off?

Rather than have you sort through the entire troubleshooting section. This is the particular scenario I was thinking of: Excessively high lift pump pressure can cause the diaphram to crack thus causing the hard start issue and the percieved air leak/priming issue.

Put a manual guage on your fuel system to verify that pressure. Sometimes the indicated pressure on the in cab guage can be incorrect due to a faulty isolator or sending unit. At 20 psi, your fuel pressure is at the low end of being marginally high. If the reading in the cab is actually showing low, the fuel pressure could be considerably higher. High fuel pressure can cause hard starting issues. Target fuel pressure should be in the 18 psi range. Compare what both guages are saying. I am going on the presumption that you have already checked for any codes. Here is a decent primer on troubleshooting. Hope this helps. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html